Wandering Jew or the Inch plant can be credited for starting the whole trend of plant swapping. Years before indoor plant gardening became a profitable business, friends, family, and fellow plant parents swapped cuttings of the wandering jew.

The Wandering Jew is native to tropical and temperate climates and grows vigorously with very little care. In fact, the name wandering jew comes from the fact that if the plant is left to its devices in the open, the plant will grow invasively to wander the ends of the earth.

Tradescantia zebrina, earlier known as Zebrina pendula, is a species of creeper loved across the globe for its bright purple foliage. When grown indoors in planters, the tradescantia can be grown all year round in home gardens, even by gardeners who have no real gardening experience.

Common names: Inch plant, Spiderwort, Wandering jew, Wandering zebrina, Zebra plant 

Types of Inch Plants

This beautiful plant has over 70 popular varieties and more often than not you can find most of these varieties in your neighbourhood growing with abandon in either hanging plants or as ground cover. Some of the most common tradescantia varieties are:

1. Tradescantia fluminensis: This variety has fleshy ovate leaves with white and green variegations attached to fleshy stems. It has triangular white flowers with three petals.
2. Tradescantia zebrina: The variegated leaves resemble the stripes of a zebra, the purplish-green leaves have a silver edge. One of the hardiest and quickest growing wandering jew varieties.
3. Tradescantia pallida: Also famous as the Purple heart plant for its deep purple foliage and light purplish-pink flower. It stands out amazingly both as ground cover and as hanging plants.
4. Tradescantia blossfeldiana: The thick green leaves have a fuzzy texture with a white and green variegated upper side and a purple underside. The plant has clusters of beautiful blue, purple, white, and pink flowers.
5. Tradescantia Sillamontana: This plant has beautiful symmetry with leaves growing on thick succulent-like stems covered in white fuzzy hair. It produces magenta flowers in season.
6. Tradescantia spathacea: Also famous as ‘moses in a blanket’, ‘oyster plant’, or ‘boat lily’, it’s almost succulent like in nature. It has dark green leaves with purple underside growing in spiral patterns

Wandering Jew (Tradescantia) plant care

The wandering jew plant is easy to grow in Indian climates and can add beautiful colour to any home garden. A great plant for new plant parents, it is a joy to grow. Let’s take a look at the detailed guide for creeping inch plant care.

Spiderwort plants are mostly carefree. One of the only points of contention in growing this as a houseplant is getting the right moisture level.

Light

The creeping-inch plants love bright indirect light but also do great with a few hours of direct light. Plant your wandering jew plant near a south-facing window where it can get at least 6 to 7 hours of bright indirect light. Growing your spiderwort in North-facing balconies and terraces is also a good idea.

If the colour or variegations on the leaves start to diminish then it is a clear sign of low light. Shift your plant to an area with brighter light conditions.

Water

The wandering jew plant likes its potting mix to be kept uniformly moist at all times but not soggy at all. Under indirect light conditions, water your wandering jew plant once per week or when the top soil dries out. Don’t let the soil dry out completely.

However, when watering your dried potting mix, water it in batches to ensure that the soil absorbs all the water and it just doesn’t run out of the planter. Water a little and then wait for a while for the soil to soak up the water before watering it again till it drains out of the drainage hole at the bottom of the planter.

Soil

The creeping inch plant is not very finicky about the soil it grows in. It thrives in a well-draining but rich potting mix. The key points to be kept in mind is allowing the topsoil to dry in between waterings and also aerate the soil once in a while. Since the spiderwort plant loves moist potting mix, it is very important that it is well-draining and well-aerated so root rot can be avoided.

Fertilisers

Use a well-balanced and generic houseplant fertiliser for your wandering jew plant. They are not heavy feeders and do well with both root and foliar application every 15 days. Use a good quality fertiliser like the Ugaoo Plant Tonic for this. Using NPK is also a good idea. Dilute the fertiliser as instructed and apply directly to roots once in 15 days and put it in a misting spray and do a foliar application too once in 15 days. The foliar application guarantees bigger and showier leaves. However, don’t overfeed the plant as it causes the leaves to lose their variegations.

Pruning

The spiderwort plant does not require any pruning as such. Pruning for the creeping inch plant comes into play in two instances; one is to remove dead foliage and the other is to manage the shape and growth pattern of the plant. When left to its own devices, the spiderwort plant becomes leggy, to keep your plant fuller, prune the stems from time to time or pinch back at least one-fourth of the branch length.

Simply use sharp clean pruning shears or scissors to prune away stems at the required length, and cut at an incline in between leaf nodes.

To remove dead or yellowing leaves, just pinch it away ensuring the leaf stalk is also removed from the main stem.

Propagating Wandering Jew Plant

The easiest plant to propagate, the wandering jew can be propagated by anyone with a pair of scissors to take cuttings. Simply take 1 to 2-inch long cuttings of the plant, with at least 1 leaf node. Plant the cuttings in a moist potting mix or propagate in water. Keep the setup in a spot with bright indirect light.

Problems with the Inch Plant and how to deal with them

Like many plants, the spiderwort can be plagued by aphids and spider mites. In case of infestation, spray the plant with neem oil solution to get rid of the pests and as preventive measures. In case of heavy infestations, prune away the infested parts.

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Pothos is without a doubt one of the easiest houseplants to grow at home. It doesn’t matter if you are an experienced or professional gardener or a completely inexperienced one, pothos is the first plant love of every gardener. With its heart-shaped leaves growing with abandon, the pothos can turn almost any space into a tropical paradise.

Also known as the devil’s ivy, it has earned its name because it’s almost impossible to kill and can grow anywhere, in full sun as well as under fluorescent lights. The leaves of this low-maintenance perennial are either solid rich green or variegated with white and yellow or pale green. Famous in India as the money plant, it can be planted all year round and grows quickly, over 12 to 18 inches in a month.

The pothos is an excellent indoor plant for homes as it is an excellent air-purifying plant that removes toxins like formaldehyde, toluene, and benzene amongst many others. In addition to it, its climbing nature with aerial roots makes it suitable for growing in tight spaces. However, the plant is toxic to pets so keep it out of reach of your furry friends in hanging baskets and planters.

Common names: Pothos, Golden Pothos, Devil’s Ivy, Devil’s Vine, Money Plant, Ceylon creeper, Taro vine, Ivy arum, Silvervine, and Solomon Islands ivy.

Types of Pothos

The pothos, botanical name: Epipremnum aureum, is often confused with the common philodendron for their similarity. They not only look similar but they also have the same care regime.

Here are some of the most common and widely loved pothos varieties

1. Golden Pothos (Epipremnum aureum): The original variety with heart-shaped leaves and milky white/yellow variegations on heart-shaped leaves.
2. Marble pothos (Epipremnum aureum ‘Marble Queen’): A common pothos variety with heavily streaked leaves in creamy white.
3. Neon Pothos (Epipremnum ‘Neon’): One of the most distinct varieties with big heart-shaped leaves in neon green or golden yellow and no variegations.
4. Satin Pothos (Scindapsus pictus): Thick waxy and dark moss-colored heart-shaped leaves with silvery variegations.

Pothos Plant Care

One of the easiest plants to care for, the pothos are generally overlooked in favour of more flamboyant plants. However, it is the best option if you want to give your home a tropical vibe with the least amount of effort.

Let’s take a look at caring for pothos plants and growing tips.

Light

Pothos can be grown both indoors and outdoors, but when grown indoors it prefers bright indirect light to thrive. Pothos can survive in medium light too but the rate of growth slows down. If you have a variegated pothos variety, the leaves might revert to solid green in low-light conditions but once you place it in the sun, the new growth will again start sporting the variegations. If your leaves are extremely pale, it indicates too much sunlight.

Water

The key point to be kept in mind while watering pothos is that they like it when the soil dries out in between waterings. If the plant is kept in soggy soil at all times, it will lead to root rot and black spots on the leaves is a clear sign of overwatering.

Water your pothos deeply when the soil dries out completely or when the leaves start drooping to show dehydration. However, don’t wait till the leaves shrivel before watering as it will lead to leaf drops and browning of leaf edges.

When watering your dried potting mix, water it in batches to ensure that the soil absorbs all the water and it just doesn’t run out of the planter. Water a little and then wait for a while for the soil to soak up the water before watering it again till it drains out of the drainage hole at the bottom of the planter.

Soil

The pothos plant is not very finicky about the soil it grows in. It thrives in a well-draining but a rich potting mix. The key points to be kept in mind is allowing the soil to dry in between waterings and also aerate the soil once in a while.

Suggested soil mix: Equal parts Ugaoo Garden Soil, Ugaoo Pot-o-Mix, Ugaoo Vermicompost

Fertilisers

Use a well-balanced and generic houseplant fertiliser for your pothos plant. They are not heavy feeders and do well with both root and foliar application every 15 days. Use a good quality fertiliser like the Ugaoo Plant Tonic for this. Using NPK is also a good idea. Dilute the fertiliser as instructed and apply directly to roots once in 15 days and put it in a misting spray and do a foliar application too once in 15 days. The foliar application guarantees bigger and showier leaves.

Pruning

The pothos plant does not require any pruning as such. Pruning for pothos comes into play in two instances; one is to remove dead foliage and the other is to manage the shape and growing pattern of the plant. Simply use sharp clean pruning shears or scissors to prune away stems at the required length, cut at an incline in between leaf nodes.

To remove dead or yellowing leaves, just pinch it away ensuring the leaf stalk is also removed from the main stem.

Propagating Pothos

Propagating pothos is something that can give even a novice gardener confidence to propagate. Simply, use sharp pruning shears or scissors to take stem cutting with at least one leaf and root node. Place these cuttings in water or potting mix, such that the root node is under soil or water and keep it in a well-lit place. If planting directly in soil, keep the potting mix moist at all times. New roots should appear in a week and new growth can be seen in the next two weeks.

Problems with Pothos and how to deal with them

Pothos is generally hassle-free and has no major issues. Some issues with money plants and their solutions are as follows:

1. Mealybugs: Mealybugs settle in the nooks and crannies, especially where the leaf joins the stem. When the infestation is too widespread, you can see mealy bugs openly on the stem, leaf underside, and clumped around the aerial root ends.

To get rid of the mealybugs, timely action is essential. Physically remove the mealy bugs with a q-tip dipped in an alcohol solution or soap water solution. You can also use pressurized water spray to dislodge the bugs and check the leaf underside too.

Follow up the physical removal of bugs with regular spray with neem oil solution. Spray neem oil solution on your plants as a preventive measure every 15 days.

1. Yellowing leaves are a clear sign of overwatering. Water only when the potting mix is dry, water thoroughly till it drains out from the drainage hole at the bottom.
2. Bleached or lighter leaves are a sign of too much sunlight. Shift your plants to a place with lower intensity of light.
3. Loss of variegations is because of too little light. While the leaves do not get back its variegations, you can place it in brighter light so that the new growth gets back its variegations.
4. Browning leaf tips can be due to irregular watering schedules. While the plant loves it when the soil dries out in between waterings, do not keep the soil dry for too long. Long dry spells cause the leaves to shrivel and dry.

FAQs

 

Are pothos (Epipremnum aureum) plants poisonous?

The pothos, or devil’s ivy, is poisonous to pets. It contains oxalate crystals that cause distress in our furry friends.

In which direction should I keep the pothos plant at home?

The pothos plant loves bright indirect sunlight and does exceedingly well in East or North-facing windows. When placed indoors, keep it a few feet away from the south or west facing windows for the right amount of light. As per Vaastu, the pothos or money plant should be kept in the south-east corner of a room to attract luck and prosperity.

How much time does Pothos take to grow?

Pothos is an extremely fast growing perennial plant. Under ideal care and conditions the pothos plant can grow up to 12 to 18 inches in a month.

Where can I buy Pothos?

A wide variety of pothos plants can be bought online from www.ugaoo.com. Ugaoo grows its own plants in state of the art polyhouses under the care of horticultural experts to ensure quality plants. Ugaoo sells Satin pothos, Golden pothos, Variegated pothos, Marble pothos in self-watering planters.

Happy gardening!

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The heart-shaped betel leaf (Piper betle) with reticulate venation is also called paan in Hindi. The Paan plant has played a crucial role in Indian culture for many centuries. In Assam paan and betel nut are offered to invite guests to marriage functions. While in Bengali culture, the bride enters the wedding mandap covering her face with two betel leaves. In the Southern states of India, no festival or religious function is complete without paan and supari being a part of return gift for the guests.

Indians love the herby paan as a chewable mouth freshener. Loved by both the erstwhile royals and the present-day commoners in their daily life, paan also has multiple health benefits.

This famed and well-loved edible plant is extremely easy to grow at home and does well in a variety of growing conditions. Let’s take a look at the detailed care guide for growing betel leaf plants at home.

Betel Leaf  Care

The paan leaf plant or betel leaf plant doesn’t have a rigorous care regime when grown at home. This creeper belongs to the pepper family that can be grown on moss poles, trellises, or in hanging planters. The following are some key points to consider in betel plant care

Soil

The betel leaf plant loves a rich but well-draining potting medium that stays moist but drains quickly. The plant does not like staying dry but hates being waterlogged even more. Use a deep pot with a  potting mix consisting of garden soil, coco peat, and compost is a good mix. It is important to ensure that the container has ample drainage holes at the bottom.

Light

Betel leaf plants are shade-loving plants that love partial light. If grown outdoors, plant it under the shade of a larger tree as ground cover or allow it to grow on the tree trunks. In homes, the betel leaf plant does great in east or north-facing corners where they receive bright indirect light through the day. They also love a few hours of morning light.

Water

Water your paan leaf plant regularly to keep the potting mix moist at all times. But ensure that the potting mix is not soggy or waterlogged. Empty the base plate soon after watering to avoid root rot. In summers the plant might need watering on a daily basis depending on where it is placed, while in rains or winters the watering schedule will reduce.

While watering if the soil is too dry and cracked, water in batches. Watering the plant in one go will make the water run out of the potting mix without being absorbed by the soil. So it is essential to water in batches to allow the potting mix to absorb the water completely.

Fertiliser

Betel leaf plants love frequent feedings and they reciprocate with bigger leaves and a thicker stem. Feed your plant every 20 days with a well-balanced houseplant fertiliser like the Ugaoo Plant tonic in the months of spring to monsoon.

Propagating Betel leaf

The betel leaf plant can be propagated by stem cutting. Take at least a 5 to 6-inch cutting from the main plant and remove the lowermost leaves and retain only the top two leaves. Place the cuttings in a bottle filled with water in a well-lit area till it grows roots. Once the roots emerge plant them in a deep planter with a well-draining soil mix.

Repotting betel leaf plant

Repotting betel leaf plants is fairly simple. Repotting of paan plant should only be undertaken when the current planter is full of roots or in other words, the plant is root-bound.  If you notice roots coming out of the drainage hole or showing on top of the topsoil, then it’s time to repot your plant.

Select a planter at least 3-4 inches larger than the current planter. Gently remove the plant from the current planter and loosen the root system by taking out as much soil as possible from it. Make sure to not damage the root.

Now plant it in the slightly larger planter with a fresh well-draining potting mix.

Types of betel leaf plant

There are several different types of betel leaf plants, the most famous being Calcutta, Banarasi, and Magahi. Ugaoo sells the very famous Magahi variety which is well known for its taste.

How to deal with the problem of betel leaf plant

Betel leaf plants can be infested with red mites occasionally. When you spot an infestation, physically remove the mites and then spray the plant with neem oil.

Leaf blight is another problem that affects the foliage with brown and black oily patches that leads to leaf necrosis. It can be simply treated by pruning away the infested leaves.

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Peace lilies are one of the most loved and common house plants due to their million benefits and ease of growing. Native to the tropical rainforests of Colombia and Venezuela, it is truly a shadow-loving plant that thrives in a warm and humid environment. The peace lily plants sport elegant arching leaves that emerge directly from the ground in a cluster form. As the weather starts getting warmer in spring, they start blooming with stunning white flowers.

Peace lily flowers are actually modified leaves of ‘bract’ and have no fragrance. However, these elegant white flowers on tall stems emerging from a sea of green foliage is a thing of beauty. The plant blooms profusely from spring to monsoon in India. These NASA-approved air purifiers remove a wide spectrum of indoor air pollutants to give you and your family a clean living space. With their ability to live happily in the shade and air-purifying quality, they make excellent bedroom plants to help you sleep better, They are also an excellent choice of plant to keep on the window sills of your well-lit bathrooms.

Peace Lily care

Indoor peace lily doesn’t have a rigorous care regimen, but there are some basic pointers that the plants are very finicky about, out of which the most important is its watering. Let’s take a look at several factors that contribute to peace lily care:

Soil

Peace lily plants like rich, well-draining potting soil with ample amounts of organic matter. The idea is to replicate its native tropical conditions where the soil is packed with decomposing organic matter. However, the plant is also very sensitive to too-damp soil conditions, so a well-draining mixture is essential, and using a terracotta pot for it works best as it helps get rid of excess moisture and also lets the oil breathe.

Light

Peace lilies are shade-loving plants but as an indoor flowering plant, they need to be filtered light throughout the day. Although they do like hot direct sunlight they do appreciate a few hours of early morning sunlight from the east. One major telltale sign of too much light is curled, pale leaves, while scorched leaves are a sign of direct sun.

Water

Potted Peace lilies prefer being under-watered rather than overwatered, so water them only when the top two inches of the potting mix is dry to touch. In hot summer months, either mist your peace lilies frequently to maintain a humid environment to avoid browning edges or use a humidifier.

Winters are dormant for peace lily plants, so stop fertilising the plant and only water when the top two inches are dry to touch.

One important point about peace lily watering is to establish a schedule, if the plant remains dry for too long and is then watered too often and kept wet for long spells, then the peace lily leaves will start browning. The only way to avoid this to set your own fixed watering schedule for every season.

Fertiliser

Peace lilies love frequent feedings and they reciprocate with bigger leaves, more blooms, and a sturdier plant. Feed your plant every 10 days with a well-balanced houseplant fertiliser like the Ugaoo Plant tonic in the months of spring to monsoon.

Propagating Peace Lily

The peace lily can be propagated by dividing clumps during repotting activities, which can be done during any season. Although, avoid doing this if you are a new gardener.

Peace lily grows in a cluster from, with the leaves emerging directly out of the soil in bunches. While repotting try identifying several such bunches, if the bunches are big enough with their own sustainable root system, pry them apart to form two separate plants, each with their own root system. Pot these new plants in a fresh, rich, well-draining potting mix.

Repotting Peace Lily

Repotting peace lilies is fairly simple. Repotting of peace lilies should only be undertaken when the current planter is full of the plant. If you notice roots coming out of the drainage hole or showing on top of the topsoil, then it’s time to repot your plant.

Select a planter at least 3-4 inches larger than the current planter. Gently remove the plant from the current planter and loosen the root system by taking out as much soil as possible from it. Make sure to not damage the root.

Now plant it in the slightly larger planter with a fresh well-draining potting mix.

Types of Peace Lily Plants

Peace lilies come in dozens of popular varieties. They range in size from miniature to massive and from deep green with snow-white flowers to golden-leaved beauties. Some of the popular hybrids include:

1. Spathiphyllum ’Power Petite’: A small varietal that grows to only about 15 inches.
2. Mauna Loa Supreme’: A very common variety that grows to be between 3 to 4 feet tall, with leaves that are up to 9 inches wide.
3. ‘Sensation’: The largest peace lily varietal, which reaches up to 6 feet in height with broad, 20-inch long leaves.
4. ‘Mojo’: A striking, large varietal with vibrant green leaves.
5. ‘Golden Delicious’: A variety that features new growth with stunning golden-green colour.
6. ‘Starlight’: A varietal with narrow leaves that have wavy margins. It’s also known for having multiple blooms, with as many as 20 flowers on a single plant.

How to Deal with Peace Lily Plant Problems

Unlike many indoor flowering plants of indoor foliage plants, peace lily remains free of pests. However, sometimes it gets plagued by mealy bugs or thrips. A few tried and tested tips to avoid this is-

1. Spray a neem oil solution every 15 days, especially at the center of the leaf cluster and underside of leaves.
2. Keep the plant well-ventilated. Since the plant loves humidity, it is essential to keep it aired out to avoid festering pests and infections in a warm humid environment.

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One of the most compact potted plants for indoor spaces, the fittonia creates a big impact in a small package. A spreading evergreen plant, with delicately veined foliage in silvery white, the veins are so fine and intricate that they look like a network of spidery nerves, earning it the name of Nerve Plant. Its dramatic habit of drooping down as soon as the water level goes low in the planter and springing right back up when watered has earned it the nick name of the “Drama Queen” of the plant world.

Fittonia is most commonly found with silvery-white veins, and it is typically grown as a potted plant, but it’s a spreader and if you want to grow it as a ground cover, your imagination is the only thing stopping you. The other common but well-loved varieties of the nerve plant come in red, pink, white, and green. It is grown majorly for its foliage, but if the plant is maintained well, it is known to bloom with reddish-yellow spikes.

Let’s take a detailed look at fittonia plant care-

Common name: Nerve plant, mosaic plant, fittonia, painted net leaf

Botanical name: Fittonia albivenis

Sunlight: Partial to bright indirect sunlight

Air: Well ventilated and moderately humid

Soil: Moist but very well-draining soil with organic matter. A mix of equal parts Ugaoo Pot-o-mix and garden soil, with a part of perlite works well.

Water: Always keep the soil moist, but not soggy. If the plant droops, water immediately.

Fertilisers: Once every two to three weeks

Issues: Leaf shedding, yellowing of leaves, pets like mealy bug, gnats, aphids

Sunlight

The fittonia is a low-growing tropical plant that readily grows in the cool bright shade of larger trees and loves a similar growing condition when grown at home. Don’t give your fittonia full sunlight but the brightest possible light through the day. They will also live in medium light, but the growth slow down considerably.

Placement

Fittonia does extremely well indoors in bright indirect light. Place them next to a natural light source like windows facing any direction. In case, you have a south or west-facing room, you can keep the plant anywhere in the room till its view of the window is not blocked.

The fittonia not only looks good in planters but are also great additions to terrariums that emulate their tropical forest environment. With their compact size and Ugaoo’s self-watering planter, they are great fit for study and worktable. The intricately patterned foliage provides visual relief and reduces fatigue, while improving productivity.

Watering

As stunning as the foliage is in it silver, white, pink, or red colour, the fittonia is a temperamental plant, expressing its displeasure on being low on water immediately. It requires constant humidity, so always keeping the soil moist is the only way out. Regularly mist your plants to prevent the leave from drying out but keep it well-ventilated to avoid infestations.

A constantly moist soil makes well-draining soil even more imperative to avoid root rot. Water your fittonia deeply and thoroughly every time you water it and water as soon as the topsoil dries out. The plant will start drooping to tell you that it needs more water but do not wait for the plant to droop every time, the repetitive dehydration shocks the plant and reduces its health eventually.

When watering an extremely dried out soil (visible cracks and soil leaving the planter walls) water in batches. Watering all at once allows the water to simply pass through the soil without getting absorbed.

Every time a plant is watered, water it thoroughly till you see some draining out of the drainage hole and always empty the under plate.

Soil

Do not plant your fittonia in too big a pot, since the soil needs to be always moist too much-retained water in excess soil can lead to root rot. Use a very well-draining soil mix. A smaller planter also ensures that much of the plant’s energy is devoted to leaf growth rather than growing roots to fill up the large planters.

Use a potting mix that I rich in organic matter and is also well-draining. If you do not want to complicate the process, you can use Ugaoo Pot-o-Mix as I from the packet or mix it with 25% Ugaoo red soil and use it for your fittonia plant.

Fertilisers

Feed your Fittonia with a generic houseplant fertilizer every three weeks, diluted as instructed on the packaging. Fertilizing during the growing period of spring and summer is especially important, as they are slow growers, and the growing season must be capitalised upon.

Ensure that the fertilizers have the three major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Ugaoo’s Plant Tonic and NPK are great options for both root and foliar applications.

Pruning

Fittonias don’t require pruning of their ornamental foliage other than when you want to shape or trim your overgrown plant. You can pinch the growing tip of your plant (the tip and top two leaves) to promote branching in your fittonia and make them bushier.

Propagating fittonia

Fittonia can be easily propagated with leaf tip cutting in early spring or summer. In a tropical country like India, they can be propagated all year round other than in harsh winters.

Take stem cuttings with at least 3 to 4 leaf nodes, remove the lower leaves to expose the leaf nodes and plant them in small 2–3-inch planters with well-draining potting mix. Use sharp cutting hears to take the cutting and cut at an angle.

Fittonia Plant Problems

1. Yellowing leaves are a clear indication of too much water. Use a planter with large drainage holes and a well-draining potting mix. Water thoroughly when the topsoil I dry to touch and always empty the base plate.
2. Leaf dropping is a clear sign of low humidity and cold air drafts. Keep the plant away from direct drafts from AC and windows and mist regularly to keep the micro-climate around the plant humid.
3. Dry shrivelled leaves indicate low humidity or irregular watering when the plants have been kept dry for too long. If the issue I not addressed in time the drying will progress from leaf tips to stems, which will then have to be pruned.
4. Mealy bug and aphids also cause distress to the plant. Spray the plant with neem oil solution every 15 days and keep the plant well-ventilated. The constantly moist soil also attracts fungus gnats, spray a pinch of cinnamon powder on the topsoil to keep them from coming especially in monsoon season.

Happy gardening!

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“Adopt the pace of nature, her secret is patience.”

Gardening is not new; it is as old as humankind itself. The domestication of plants for food and survival began when our ancestors realised that certain plants could be grown in certain seasons for food. In 287 BC plants entered our homes in pots and planters and with scientific advancements came the understanding that certain plants can be grown al seasons inside our home – this marked the true beginning of the home gardening era.

While most of us believe that plants make any space look more liveable and welcoming and it is true, that is not their only benefit. There are numerous physiological as well as psychological benefits of indoor plants. They not only improve our living conditions and mental and physical health, but they also boost creativity and improve focus.

Researchers have conducted case studies across the globe to study the effects house plants have on the people and today there are science-backed proofs that indoor plants have the following benefits. Let’s take a look at the top eight science-backed benefits of growing indoor plants.

1. House plants reduce stress and fatigue

Do you remember how you felt on that vacation in the hills or if you have not been yet, the longing others vacation pictures inspire in you? That is what greenery or indoor plants do – they let our souls breathe.

Science says that we have an innate instinct to connect with nature and it is termed as biophilia. As soon as we get close to nature that invisible tug loosens and we feel better. The Japanese believe in the age-old concept of Shinrin-yoku or ‘forest bathing,’ a 2010 study proved that people who regularly engaged in this had visibly lower stress levels, reduced BP, and led a more stress-free life. However, most of us spend 85% of our time indoors and forests are fast dwindling, so our answer lies in bringing the forest indoors in the form of indoor plants.

Science has also proved that a soil bacteria, Mycobacterium vaccae, triggers the release of serotonin, the happy hormone, which improves mood and brain function. Which proves that the very act of gardening makes us happy and who does not miss childhood when playing in the soil made us the happiest.

Some fatigue-reducing plants are Aglaonemas, Calathea, Anthuriums, and so on.

2. House plants improve air quality

NASA conducted one of the most pioneering studies to document the positive effect of indoor plants on air quality. The study proved that indoor plants not only produce fresh air but also eliminate indoor air toxins.

Even if you live in the cleanest parts of the world, there are several sources of indoor air pollutants. Common household items like cleaning solutions, plywood furniture, dry cleaned clothes, wall paints, and craft supplies like colours and glue – all release volatile organic compounds in the air. Plants help eliminate these toxins from the air and in turn, give out clean oxygen-rich air.

We spend more than 85% of our time indoors, so we should be equally worried about both indoor and outdoor pollution. While good air is the basic key to good health, it is more important for toddlers and senior citizens as they breathe in more air by volume throughout the day.

Some of the best air purifying plants are sansevieria, areca palm, peace lily, and so on

3. House plants boost productivity

There are several studies that have concluded that plants in the workspace improve productivity of the people working. A 1996 study proves that students focus better and show and increase in productivity when plants are placed in their vicinity while working, they showed over 12% increase in productivity repeatedly.

A 2004 study also documents the positive impact plants have on creativity and a study by the University of Michigan proposes that plants improve memory retention by over 20%. Plants also improve cognitive function and help in idea generation.

Post-Covid, both the working population and the student population have grown psychologically averse to indoor spaces and productivity has taken a hit. Introducing plants to the study/worktable or the room breaks the monotony of the space and provide visual and psychological respite.

Some plants that you can add to your work desk to improve productivity are Dracaena compacts, butterfly palm, jade dwarf, and so on.

4. House plants reduce illnesses and speed up recovery

Indoor plants not only beautify your space and provide psychological benefits but are also a key player in reducing allergies. A room with plants not only has lower dust levels but fewer air-borne pathogens and mould. Plant function as natural filter for allergens and pathogens and trap them through the leaves and soil both.

One other way in which they reduce illnesses is by improving indoor humidity. Dry air causes irritation of the nasal passage making it more susceptible to allergies, clean humid indoor air not only soothes the nasal canal but also reduces the percentage of airborne allergens.

The act of taking a bouquet of flowers to see a recovering patient in the hospital is not only a goodwill gesture but might have a deeper meaning. The presence of flowers and plants around recovering patients has been scientifically proven to reduce recovery time. The studies further propose that they help tolerate pain better and reduce dependence on meds much quicker.

Some plants that help boost the health of recovering patients anthurium, philodendron, monstera, and so on.

5. House plants improve mental and emotional health

Several practicing therapists and researchers across the globe use garden or horticultural therapy to help patients dealing with anxiety, depression, schizophrenia, and dementia amongst many other mental issues. The patients have shown remarkable improvement in their mental health and promote a sense of well-being.

It has already been discussed that daily interaction with plants helps reduce stress and blood pressure in people and add to this the positive impact has on daily mental health by preventing the stress of daily life to build into something bigger and catastrophic.

There are several medical clinics across the globe that now prescribe gardening and potted plants as a solution to mental health issues. Nurturing a living plant helps lower anxiety, improve attention, and lessen the severity of depression. The physical benefits like better air and more oxygen also improves metal health.

Almost all houseplants improve mental health, some very good examples are fittonia, fern, peperomia, and so on.

6. House plants improve sleep

One of the major cause for several of the health conditions that the current generation is suffering from arises from bad sleeping patterns. Inefficient sleep can be attributed to both stress and polluted indoor air.

Presence of indoor plants helps reduce daily stress, lowers blood pressure, and provide cognitive relief from the monotony of indoor spaces. They also put us at ease by fulfilling our innate craving for green spaces (biophilia), all this then contributes to a more restful disposition when nights roll in.

One other major factor is the air quality that affects our quality of sleep. Indoor plants purify air and eliminate VOCs to ensure better health that translates to sound sleep. There are certain plants that eliminate carbon-di-oxide and other pollutants from the air through the night and ensure that you get clean oxygen rich air while we sleep.

some houseplants that help sleep better are peace lily, sansevieria, spider plant, and so on.

7. House plants improve focus and attention

In a study, researchers put together a closely monitored group of students in different rooms, each with no plants, fake plants, pictures of plants, and live plants. Brain scans of the test subjects showed increased brain function in participants with real plants. The results show almost a 30% increase in focus and attention.

This can be attributed to the fact that indoor plants help regulate stress and blood pressure, improve focus with oxygen rich air and in general help people feel more at home.

Foliage pattern plants are great for improving focus Calathea, Aglaonema, Pothos, and so on.

8. House plants have medicinal benefits

In our endeavour to outline all the dominant benefits of indoor plants, we cannot side line the first and most important benefit of indoor plants. Some of the earliest plants that were domesticated were for medicinal use. In the ancient Indian medical science of Ayurveda, plants hold the utmost importance. They not only talk about using common household herbs as remedies for common ailments, but also prescribes home grown food as medicine for longer healthier life.

Common and easy to grow herbs like mint helps with stomach ailments, Tulsi helps with allergies, rosemary helps with fungal infections, magai paan is both a mouth freshener and a digestive, while plants like lemongrass and citronella keep bugs away.

Food grown at home has the highest nutrient level and since we control what goes in the soil while it is growing, the food is of the highest quality. The farm to table experience not only guarantees nutrition but also eliminates wastage, as only the required amount is harvested on a day-to-day basis.

Some common houseplants with medicinal benefits are aloevera, magai paan, mint, and so on.

There are numerous benefits of growing indoor plants, apart from the ones mentioned in the preceding sections, and most of them can only be experienced and not explained. The changes are gradual, that slowly build up to a much more relaxed and fulfilling life, where no goal is too difficult to achieve and no stress is too big to sacrifice a good night’s sleepover.

Getting plants home is one of the easiest and simplest things you can do as a long-term investment for your and your family’s health.

Happy gardening!

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You scroll through any social media feed and all the décor and home posts your likely to come across will have some or the other indoor plant. Indoor plants have taken over every home in recent years and we all know at least one self-proclaimed plant parent.

While gardening earlier meant growing plants that were common to the are you lived in, with the world becoming a global village and the age of social media, people now are interested in and have access to plants from across the globe.

The common houseplants no longer start conversations, it is the new and unusual that every gardening enthusiast wants to talk about. But there is one downside to this newfound love for rare exotic plants – the price. A majority of the plant lovers get deterred by the prices and often get disillusioned by them. So why is your coveted indoor plant so costly. Let’s look at some reasons.

1. Supply demand

With the sudden entry of the millennial generation into the gardening world and the awareness amongst people about the importance of keeping plants at home has resulted in a sudden increase in demand. Now plants unlike man made products cannot be produced on demand and they take their own time to grow. The sudden demand and a controlled rate of supply is one of the causes of high prices.

2. Rarity

Some plants are rare, they are truly exotic. Either they have entered the world of indoor gardening recently, have not yet been grown on a large commercial scale, or it is impossible to grow them on a large scale due to difficulty.

The rarer the plant, the more people covet it and that is what increases the price further. Rarity coupled with demand shoots up the price to sky high levels.

3. Difficulty in growing

While some plants are easy to grow and can be grown simply from a small cutting, for example pothos. But there are some plants that are extremely difficult to grow. They need expert care, controlled environment, and a long time to grow.

The high rate of failure in growing these plants also further adds to the high price of the plant.

4. Ease of propagation

While some plants are easy to propagate and can be grown easily from cuttings. There are some plants that are extremely difficult to grow, they can only grow from their own pups or offshoots. The grower then has to allow the mother plant to grow to a mature stage for it to start producing pups, the pups then need to be separated and grown under care. All these complexities then again add to the price.

5. Time

Some plants grow slow. Period. Even common plants like ZZ and sansevieria take months to root and grow new saplings, even in the most ideal of growing conditions. This long duration results in added care and space on the part of the grower and let’s not forget the manpower.

6. Size

Size is a major factor that contributes to price. Larger plants are always costlier than their smaller counterparts. Its not only time that goes into growing plants, but special care. They need to be cared for regularly for stunning foliage, good growth pattern, and healthy root system. They need to be protected against pests and infections, need to be pruned for it to grow in the right shape, and placed in the right spot for larger foliage. Well, no one will pay thousands for an ill, scanty, and ugly looking plant.

7. Quality

Plants that you find on the roadside nursery are cheaper, but the quality is lower. The pain of poor quality outlives the joy of low price. If the plant has to enjoy a healthy long life, its start has to be healthy. Plants from good growers are grown under special care, both manpower and equipment. A good quality plant does not translate to only bushy plants, but plants with healthy root system and a good potting medium. When the grower ensures a healthy root system, the plant will get healthier as it grows.

8. Potting mix and Planter

A good potting mix consists of builders, aerators, and fertilisers in the right proportion. Cheaper plants come in clayey red soil that is cheap and sometimes free to procure, but it does not support a healthy root system. Adding these components in the right proportion requires bit raw material and skilled manpower.

Plants from good growers come in good planters that not only last a lifetime but also look good in you home, case in point is Ugaoo. Ugaoo’s self-watering planters are not only excellent quality that lasts a lifetime, can be reused for other plants, can be easily recycled, but are also technologically advanced with a water reservoir at the bottom that lowers your watering work.

9. Transportation

Online plant sellers take on the responsibility of transporting your plants safely to your doorstep. This requires secure packaging, special care to keep your plant hydrated during transit, a dependable logistics partner to safely transport the plants.

Ugaoo also promises free replacement in case the plant gets damaged in transit.

10. Resources

All the above mentioned features require resources – skilled labour, horticultural experts, state-of-the-art poly-houses, watering systems, and other automation for temperature and humidity control. Growing plants under special care ensures that you get good quality, a plant that grows with time and adds to your happiness.

Lets take a look at some of the costliest plants and their average price, to the best of our knowledge.

Top 5 costliest indoor plants in the world:

1. Monstera varieties: While the regular monstera varieties are on the comparatively lower end of the price spectrum, their variegated counterparts are rarer, more coveted, and pricier. A white variegated Monstera Adansonii sold for $38000 (INR 26,60,000) in the US.
2. Mature Fiddle leaf fig: This plant is a good example of demand driving the price. Indoors the plant can grow up to 10 feet and the interior design magazines and Instagram have pushed it into stardom. It is this stardom that has increased its pricing. A mature fiddle leaf can cost anywhere between INR 4200 to INR 28000.
3. Hoya carnosa: This extremely slow grower, especially ones with unique variegations, are sold at high prices. This beauty has recently sold for $6500 (INR 4,55,000).
4. Bonsai Tree: Recently an 800-year-old bonsai of white pine tree sold for $1.3 million (INR 9.1 Cr). The price of bonsai trees grows exponentially higher as they grow older and are more intricate.
5. The Shenzhen Nongke Orchid claimed the record for the most expensive flower ever sold when it was auctioned off for about $224,000 ( INR 1,56,80,000) in 2005. This flower was created by scientists in a university lab and took 8 years of work to develop. It only blooms every 5 years!

Happy Gardening!

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The fiddle leaf fig has been enjoying its place in the spotlight for a while now and given the love it is getting from both gardeners and interior designers for their beautiful foliage and looks. A single fiddle leaf fig has the presence and looks to turn your home into an insta famous frame.

Native to the rainforests of Western and Central Africa, the fiddle leaf fig, or the Ficus lyrata, boasts of large floppy green leaves with delicate vein network that commands immediate attention. Their tree like structure stands in beautiful contrast to the interiors of your home and has an immense visual impact to give your décor an edge.

The fiddle leaf fig is infamous for being a tricky plant, but we believe it to be not so accurate. The plant has a few specific requirements, which when met results in a happy and good looking plant. With proper care, the fiddle leaf fig can grow up to a couple of feet every year and reach over six feet in your indoor space.

Let’s take a look at its care tips and learn how to make show love to your Fiddle leaf fig plant

Common name: Fiddle leaf fig, Banjo fig

Botanical name: Ficus lyrata

Famous plant members: Fiddle leaf fig compacta

Sunlight: Partial or filtered sunlight

Air: Warm and Well ventilated

Soil: Very well-draining soil with organic matter. A mix of equal parts Ugaoo Pot-o-mix and garden soil, or a part of perlite should work well.

Water: When the top 2 to 3 inches of the soil is dry to touch

Fertilisers: Once every two to three weeks

Issues: Rot due to overwatering, browning leaves due to irregular watering, mealy bugs

Sunlight

The fiddle leaf fig is native to the tropical forests and thrives in a well-lit warm environment. It thrives in at least 3-4 hours of sun in a day and bright indirect light for the rest of the day. If you want to keep your fiddle leaf fig indoors, make sure that it gets either morning or evening light and extremely bright light through the day.

Placement

Fiddle leaf figs do extremely well in south and west-facing corners of your home where they get ample sun through the day. Keep it close to natural sources of light such as windows and balconies. If the corner you are placing it in does not get the required light use lighter wall colours and mirrors to increase reflected light.

Watering

The fiddle leaf fig likes it when the soil dries out slightly in between watering cycles. Water your fiddle leaf fig when the top two to three inches of the soil dries out. Water the plant till the excess water drains out of the planter and always empty the baseplate, as the plant hates being waterlogged.

When watering an extremely dried out soil (visible cracks and soil leaving the planter walls) water in batches. Watering all at once allows the water to simply pass through the soil without getting absorbed.

Every time a plant is watered, water it thoroughly till you see some draining out of the drainage hole and always empty the under plate.

Soil

The fiddle leaf fig loves a rich but well-draining soil as the plant hates being waterlogged. It is a tropical plant that loves a moist growing medium that can dry out in between waterings. Use an equal mix of Ugaoo garden soil, Ugaoo Vermicompost, and Ugaoo Pot-o-mix. Another alternate is using equal parts red soil, compost, and perlite, with half part cocopeat.

Repotting

The fiddle plants are big rooters plants and easily get root bound. Though they love being root bound, they need to be repotted when roots start coming out of the drainage hole. Repot your fiddle plant once a year in a loose well-draining potting mix in a planter that is not more than three inches bigger than the previous planter. Repot your plants in late winter (January) so that it gets time to settle in before the growing season of spring rolls in.

Fertilisers

Feed your Fiddle lea fig plant with a generic houseplant fertiliser every three weeks, diluted as instructed on the packaging. Fertilising during the growing period of spring and summer is especially important.

Ensure that the fertilisers have the three major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Ugaoo’s Plant Tonic and NPK are great options for both root and foliar applications.

Pruning

Pruning back a couple of leaves from the top every few months not only promotes branching to make your fiddle leaf fig bushier but also allows it to divert the nutrients to older leaves and make them healthier.

Propagation

Fiddle leaf fig can be propagated by stem cuttings. Every time you prune your plant, take cuttings with at least 3-4 leaves, and remove the lowermost leaves and retain the top two leaves and propagate the cuttings in water. Make sure to submerge the lower exposed leaf nodes in water. The cutting will start growing roots in a couple of weeks, post which it can be transplanted in soil.

Plant problems

1. Yellow and floppy leaves mean that your Fiddle could be overwatered. Water only when the soil is dry to touch.
2. Brownish and dehydrated leaves indicate excessive heat and lack of humidity.
3. Etiolated or leggy plants with extra-large spaces in between leaves is a sign of lack of light.
4. Stalled growth can be either due to lack of light, no nutrients, or hibernation in winters.
5. Brown edges can mean your tree is overwatered, while brown spots can mean it is underwatered. Adjust your watering schedule if you notice its soil is overly-dry or overly-moist.
6. Fiddle leaf figs are sensitive to drafts, keep them out of direct cold drafts from ACs and windows and doors in winters.
7. Fiddle leaf figs are prone to mealy bugs, aphids, mites, and scales. Check the foliage regularly, and if signs of pests are seen, wipe them down with a cloth and soapy water. Follow it up with thorough spraying with neem oil solution.

To conclude, keep your fiddle leaf figs warm, well lit, let them dry out between waterings, and well-ventilated, and clean leaves once a month to help the plants breathe better.

Happy gardening!

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With over one thousand varieties, this Mexican and South American native plant is one of the easiest indoor plants for new home gardeners to start their gardening journey. The Peperomia, famously known as the radiator plants, are extremely low-maintenance tropical plants with thick glossy leaves that store a good amount of moisture making the plant drought tolerant to a large degree. The plants of the peperomia family boast of such a variety of foliage from large emerald greens to small variegated and striped that it is difficult to classify them as the members of the same family just on sight.

Peperomias are excellent for home gardens and indoor spaces, they can be trailing, upright, growing in clusters or spreading depending on the variety you choose, making them suitable for almost all corners of your home. Peperomias are slow-growing plants that can be planted all year round and love bright indirect to medium light. They can be very easily propagated from both stem and leaf cuttings, making them a great candidate to practice your propagation skills on.

Some of the most famous peperomia varieties are: Peperomia Obtusifolia, Peperomia caperata, Peperomia angulata, Peperomia rosso, String of  turtles, Trailing Jade, Peperomia hope, Peperomia cupid, and so many more.

Let’s take a detailed look at peperomias and their care

Common name: Baby rubber plant, pepper elder, Radiator plant, Emerald ripper pepper

Botanical name: Peperomia spp.

Famous plant members: Peperomia Obtusifolia, Peperomia caperata, Peperomia angulata, Peperomia rosso, and so on.

Sunlight: Partial to bright indirect sunlight

Air: Well ventilated

Soil: Very well-draining soil with organic matter. A mix of equal parts Ugaoo Pot-o-mix and garden soil, with a part of perlite should work well.

Water: When the top few inch of the potting soil is almost dry. Allow the soil to dry out in between waterings.

Fertilisers: Once every two to three weeks

Issues: Rot due to overwatering and aphids, mealy bugs, and spider mites

Sunlight

The peperomia is native to Mexico, South American, and the Caribbean and prefers bright indirect sunlight. It also does good in partial light, with morning or evening sun. It is wise to keep the peperomia out of the harsh afternoon sun to avoid leaf burn.

Placement

Peperomia do extremely well indoors in bright indirect light. Place them next to a natural light source like windows facing any direction. In case, you have a south or west facing room, you can keep the plant almost anywhere in the room till its view of the window is not blocked.

The trailing varieties of peperomia look great in hanging baskets, hang them on your windowsills or north and east-facing balconies to enjoy their stunning foliage gently swaying in the breeze.

Watering

Peperomias love their soil to be dried out in between watering sessions. Keep an eye on the soil colour and texture to determine when the top few inch of the soil is dry and then water thoroughly till water drains out of the drainage hole and always empty the base e plate. Don’t let the potting mix remain dry for long.

Peperomias are tropical drought-resistant plants that do better with underwatering than overwatering. However, being tropical they love their occasional misting for humidity and don’t like the potting mix to stay dry for too long.

When watering an extremely dried out soil (visible cracks and soil leaving the planter walls) water in batches. Watering all at once allows the water to simply pass through the soil without getting absorbed.

Every time a plant is watered, water it thoroughly till you see some draining out of the drainage hole and always empty the under plate.

Soil

Don’t plant your peperomias in too big a pot, these are drought resistant plants that love to be on the drier side and a large planter would mean excess moisture in the soil. Use a very well-draining soil mix. A smaller planter also ensures that much of the plant’s energy is devoted to leaf growth rather than growing roots to fill up the large planters.

Peperomias don’t like wet soil and prefer a growing medium that is almost epiphytic in nature. You can use a mix of succulent potting mix with equal parts regular potting mix or a mix of equal parts of orchid potting mix and regular potting mix.

Fertilisers

Feed your Peperomias with a generic houseplant fertilizer every three weeks, diluted as instructed on the packaging. Fertilizing during the growing period of spring and summer is especially important, as they are slow growers and the growing season must be capitalised upon.

Ensure that the fertilizers have the three major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Ugaoo’s Plant Tonic and NPK are great options for both root and foliar applications.

Pruning

Peperomias don’t require pruning of their ornamental foliage other than when you pant to shape or trim your overgrown plant.

Propagation

If you want to propagate peperomia, take a stem cutting with at least two leaf nodes or a leaf-cutting preserving the leaf node. For stem cuttings, strip away the lower leaves and retain only the top one or two leaves, submerge the exposed leaf node either in soil or water and keep it in an area with partial sunlight and wait for the roots to appear.

For leaf cuttings, pluck the leaf carefully making sure that the node is preserved. Submerge the leaf stalk in water or in soil and keep it in bright indirect light. Make sure that the soil is moist but not soggy at all times. In a few weeks, an entirely new plant will emerge from the leaf node. When the new lant is a coupe of inches tall, transplant it to a new planter carefully.

Peperomia plant problems

1. Yellow and floppy leaves mean that your peperomia could be overwatered. Water only when the soil is dry to touch.
2. Brownish and dehydrated leaves indicate excessive heat and lack of humidity.
3. A limp peperomia is generally a sign of either overwatering or underwatering. Check the soil and err on the side of underwatering.
4. Etiolated or leggy plants with extra-large spaces in between leaves is a sign of lack of light.
5. Stalled growth can be either due to lack of light, no nutrients, or hibernation in winters.
6. Peperomias are vulnerable to sap-sucking pests like aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites. Wipe down with soap solution and spray neem oil.
7. Shift your Peperomias indoors if you experience harsh winters to avoid leaf loss.

Happy gardening!

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When we see insects in our garden, our first instinct is to destroy them, but they are not always bad and destroying them might not work in the best health of your garden and plants. Out of the 1.5 million insects species known, approximately 95% are either beneficial to the garden or simply benign.

Beneficial insects perform vital functions in the environment. More than 75 percent of crops and an equal amount of flowering plants rely on animals to distribute pollen, and most that perform this task are insects. Bees, butterflies, moths and even beetles and flies pollinate plants.

Insects also perform the important tasks of aerating soil, breaking down dead materials and returning them to the earth, and serving as food for wildlife. Some insects, such as ladybird beetles and green lacewings, also eat harmful pests, which helps to keep the environment in balance.

What should you do when you see an insect in your garden?

The first task in order is to stop yourself from quashing them but ignoring them is also not a good idea. Here are some things you could follow to understand the new guest in your garden.

1. Take a close look at the bug and observe what it’s doing – is it alone, is it feeding on the foliage, is it forming a colony and causing extensive damage.
2. Click a photo of it and run a google image search to know its name. You can search for the images at a few reliable official websites like this.
3. Once you are sure of what the insect is and if it invasive and detrimental to your garden, use superior quality measures to control the pest. The control measures can be either physical or chemical or a combination of both.
4. If the bugs are just a few in number and can be picked up physically and disposed, either pick them up and throw them or prune away the infested leaf or branch to get rid of them.
5. After you get rid of the bugs with physical methods, don’t forget to spray down the entire plant with a neem oil solution to kill any larvae that might be present and deter new bugs from coming in.
6. If the bugs have infested your plant and can’t be removed using physical means, chemical methods are the only solution. Use a good quality spray that doesn’t cause harm to the ecosystem. One of the best and most effective pest control methods that doesn’t cause harm to the soil or the plants is neem oil. Use an excellent quality neem oil, like the Ugaoo Neem oil, dilute it as per package instructions and either use it as a spray or use it wipe down the leaves of your plants.
7. Preventive measures for pest control in gardening are always better and more effective than curative measures. It is easier to deter pests from making your garden their home than to shoo them away. Spray your plants with a neem oil solution every 15 days to prevent any and every kind of pest infestation.

Here is a list of the best good bugs and the worst bad bugs in your garden.

The Good Bugs

These good bugs do a lot of good things in the garden:

1. They eat the bad bugs. The green lacewings can eat up to two hundred or more pests per week, while a ladybug can eat almost five thousand aphids in its lifetime.
2. They pollinate fruits, vegetables, crops, and flowers.
3. They break down dead material and turn it into usable and nutritional soil components.

There are two types of god bugs for every garden

1. Predators: These bugs and their larvae feed on the bad bugs and kill them.
2. Parasitoids: These good bugs are smaller than the bad bugs, but they function as parasites by laying eggs on or near bad bugs, the hatching larvae feed on the bad bugs.

Here are some good bugs for the garden:

1. Aphid midge: This is a predator; the midge paralyzes and kills aphids with toxic saliva before eating them.
2. Green lacewing: This is a predator; both the adult and larvae lacewing eats many pests including caterpillars, whiteflies, aphids, and scale insects.
3. Minute pirate bug: They are predator that eat almost any and every garden pest.
4. Ladybug: The prettiest garden predator, both its adult and larvae eat mites, mealybugs, and aphids.

Top bad bugs in your garden:

These bugs can wreak havoc in your garden and destroy your well loved and cared for plants and the sooner you get rid of them the better.

1. Tobacco/tomato hornworm: It eats through the foliage of the tomato and potato plant family at an alarming rate, defoliating the entire plant in a matter of days.
2. Japanese beetle: Eats almost every plant that comes in its way, without any discretion.
3. Mealybugs: These white cottony bugs are one of the worst infestations your plants can have. They look pretty harmless for the damage they do; they suck the life out of your plants and spread at an alarming rate and are extremely difficult to get rid of.
4. Spider mites: These miniature spiders colonise the plants and kill them, they especially feed upon the young leaves and buds and stunt growth.
5. Aphids: Aphids infest plants in colonies, they are soft bodies sucking insects that feed on the plant sap. They are found in large groups on the underside of the leaves.

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Have you ever dreamed of a holiday in the mountains in the middle of a busy Wednesday? Don’t worry you are not alone; a majority of the working population today gets by through the daily grind in wait for the weekend. Well, this cannot be blamed entirely on work stress, the other major factor in this equation is the lack of green spaces and given that we spend a majority of our day in offices our connection to greenery is getting further strained.

Humans have an innate desire to be connected to nature, science terms this as ‘biophilia’. Biophilia is ingrained in our very genes, we seek the peace and happiness that nature brings us and the increasing disconnect with it is stressing us at a very human level. The growth of the travel industry in the last decade coincides with the boom in the employment sector. There are more people working in office buildings than ever before and there are more people travelling the world too.

We cannot escape our day jobs to go enjoy a vacation in the lap of nature, but we can surely bring nature into our workplace with indoor plants and adding plants not only to our offices but also our worktables. Studies have shown that simply adding some greenery in the form of indoor plants can have major positive benefits for you.

Lets take a look at a few reasons to add plants to you workspace.

1. They improve health

One major effect that office plants have on employee well-being is the gradual reduction of sick days taken. Plants filter indoor air-pollutants from the rooms and saturate the air with oxygen and keep it fresh. In offices with poor ventilation, the inhabitants/employees are at a risk of developing the “sick building syndrome”. The symptoms include headaches, nausea, difficulty concentrating, and even flu-like symptoms. While the true solution to this is a great ventilation system, indoor plants help freshen up the air by removing indoor pollutants like toxic gases and air-borne microbes.

Plants like Peace lily, dracaena, and spider plants are great indoor air-purifying plants.

2. They help to reduce stress

A 2010 study conducted by the new University of Technology, Sydney, presented significant reductions in stress among workers when indoor plants were introduced to their workspace. Results included a 37% fall in reported tension and anxiety; a 58% drop in depression or dejection; a 44% decrease in anger and hostility; and a 38% reduction in fatigue.

SMEs of colour psychology say that the colour green, sound naturally has a calming and relaxing effect on people.

Indoor foliage plants like Monsteras, Fiddle leaf fig, philodendrons, and ficus varieties amongst many tropical beauties are excellent foliage plants.

3. They help to increase productivity

Employees’ productivity jumps 15% when ‘lean’ work environments are filled with just a few of indoor plants, as per a study conducted by University of Exter in 2014, adding just one plant per square metre improves memory retention and helped employees score higher on other basic tests. The key factor was that everyone could see a plant from their desk or on their desk. When the work environment has something to keep the employees psychologically engaged, they are happier and work better.

4. Plants can boost creativity

Creative blocks are not a joke. Whether you’re out of ideas or stuck on the same one for a long while, office plants can provide inspiration. Bright colours, intricate foliage patterns, and eye-catching leaf shapes have a positive impact on creativity. It’s been widely recognized that stimulating our senses can open up the flow of ideas and taking the time to literally smell the flowers can help pull you out of your slump.

Indoor plants like calatheas, palms, ivies, succulents, and so on are great creativity boosters.

5. They improve the look

Out of there many benefits, one of the major, but not so important benefit is the degree to which they improve your workspace aesthetically. Adding indoor plants to offices and worktables provide visual relief, make the space more attractive and habitable. They motivate people to come join the office because the work environment is something that they want to be a part of.

Ugaoo is India’s prime choice for indoor plants, small plants for office desk in India, creativity boosting plants, and all other plants. Visit our website to explore our entire range of plants and call us for garden maintenance services and corporate renting.

Happy gardening!

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If you have a sunny room, most plants can be a part of your home; however, with the changes in light that you get indoors, the list of plants that you can keep also changes. To get a full list of plants suited for different rooms and spots and light requirements, please check out the categories and light and water details on Ugaoo.

Lets take a look at the ways in which you can add plants to you home

1. Add plants at different heights to create interest

Adding plants at different heights brings variety to your home and creates depth and visual interest. Keep tall plants like the fiddle leaf figs or a Ficus benjamina on the floor, bushy plants in pedestal planters, while smaller and trailing plants can be kept on shelves. Remember to not overcrowd your space, it is always to have one focal plant rather than many non-remarkable ones, unless you are going for the urban jungle look.

2. Have fun with your pots

Understand your room décor or the look you are going for. While monochrome planters are great for minimal modern Indian homes and make the plant the superstar. Fun colourful planters in a variety of shapes are very well suited to the Indian home aesthetic. Select different sized planters for different spots and plant shapes. Metal planters in gold and silver add glam to homes.

3. Plants on shelves

Why should floors have all the fun? Create your perfect shelfie with trailing plants and succulents on striking planters on your shelves. Plants like cactus in interesting shapes are almost architectural in the vibe they add. Juxtapose their starkness with a lush trailing part hanging down from the top shelves, or pair them with other succulents for a modern clutter free look.

4. Create green corners

If you can’t place plants across your home due to space or light constraints, consider creating a tropical escape in one corner of a room. Make sure the corner is well lit, add plants of different heights and shapes to create layers and depth. Use hanging planters, wall shelves, and macramé planters to place smaller or trailing plants at a height. Add a boho rug, a cane sofa or stuffed chair to this corner with either fairy lights strung through the plants or a floor lamp in the background and you have your own private oasis.

5. Create focal point in rooms

If you are someone who has a big home with a large open space for the eyes to wander or if you have little space to create an urban jungle, you can place just one statement plant per room and turn it into the focal piece. Use extra-large plants or plants in tall pedestal planters and further highlight it using lights, plant stakes in interesting shapes, or eye-catching planters.

6. Combine art and plants

Place your plants around wall arts. Whether it is a mirror, woodwork, or a painting, combining wall art and plants always works out for the better, since there is not one but two visual elements in the same frame.

7. Create terrariums

If you love the jungle but cant create one in your home due to many reasons, terrariums are what you are looking for. You can either create your own terrarium or buy one from a plant store. They need minimal care and are instant conversation starters.

There are a million ways to decorate with plants and all of them are correct. Do what feels right, suits the light in your home, and elevates your personal style. Choose plants whose care suit your level of gardening expertise. The secret is to not be afraid and jump in with both feet, we promise you will land with a sure footing.

Happy gardening!

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Irises come in every single colour of the rainbow and their heights range from a few inches tall to up to five feet so they can be planted anywhere in the garden – from the back areas to the front borders. They’re relatively inexpensive and will multiply so you can divide and transplant them elsewhere in your garden or share them with friends in a few years.

Iris care is minimal once the growing iris is established. Iris plant care consists mainly of dividing the iris plants to assure continued blooms. Iris plants are abundant multipliers but once the rhizomes of iris plants become crowded, the iris flowers may be limited and the rhizomes need to be separated.

Sunlight

Plant rhizomes of the iris in a sunny location with well-draining, rich soil for optimum flowering. Leave room for growth between the rhizomes and do not bury the entire rhizome. Make sure roots are covered but allow the iris rhizome to remain partially above ground to avoid root rot.

Placement

Irises love 5-6 hours of full sun but can also do very well in partially shaded areas if you live in hot places. Plant them on your south-facing windowsill or balconies where they can get good sun. Even west-facing areas are great for irises.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the top two inches of the soil becomes dry to the touch till the water drains out of the drainage hole at the bottom and always drains the bottom plate to avoid overwatering. The more light and warmth the iris gets, the more frequently it will need to be watered.

When watering an extremely dried out soil (visible cracks and soil leaving the planter walls) water in batches. Watering all at once allows the water to simply pass through the soil without getting absorbed.

Every time a plant is watered, water it thoroughly till you see some draining out of the drainage hole and always empty the underplate.

Soil

Irises require a full sun location in well-draining soil with an ideal pH of 6.8. Rhizomes can be planted any time after flowering, from mid-summer to early autumn.

Before planting, soil should be loosened with a garden fork to a depth of 12 to 16 inches, with compost mixed into the top six inches. To improve drainage, mix in coarse sand or perlite. To plant, dig a hole a few inches longer than the rhizomes and about four inches deep, and mix in a few spoons of bone meal per rhizome.

Pile some loose soil into a ridge four inches high down the middle of the planting hole. Place the rhizome on top of the ridge, laying the roots down on both sides. Fill the hole, covering the roots but leaving the top of the rhizome exposed and press the soil to compact it and water it deeply.

It’s important to leave the rhizome tops exposed to the drying sun and air to avoid root rot.

Fertilisers

Apply a low nitrogen or balanced fertilizer like Ugaoo Plant tonic in early spring and once again after flowering. Always add compost at the time of potting and top of the topsoil with a handful of compost every 30 days.

Pruning

Deadhead seed pods from the plants to prevent beds from becoming overcrowded with seedlings. After flowering, cut back the flower stalks and trim any brown tips if needed, but preserve the leaves.

Propagation

The best way to propagate iris is by rhizome division. However, propagating species plants from seed is also an option, although the germination rate can be as low as 50 percent and it can take two to three years for flowers to appear. Over time rhizomes can become crowded which can inhibit flowering, and clumps should be divided every three to five years. To create new plants, divide roots approximately six to eight weeks after flowering, or mid to late summer.

Pull rhizomes apart by hand or use a clean sharp knife to cut them. Select only healthy pieces and discard any that are soft, rotting, or show evidence of root borers.

Pro Tips

• Give plants a sunny spot in well-draining soil.
• Provide ample spacing when planting tall, bearded varieties as they need good air circulation.
• Use a light touch with mulch and ensure rhizome tops are exposed to the sun.
• Cut back foliage in fall to deter overwintering pests.

Plant problems

1. Aphids are small green or grey insects that suck sap from the leaves and also spread disease from plant to plant.
2. Snails and slugs are also known to munch on leaves and flowers, creating irregular holes.
3. Soft rot occurs during warm, wet springs, and symptoms include soft, smelly rhizomes, and decay at the base of leaves.

Happy gardening!

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Ixora is a genus of over 500 species, in the coffee family, Rubiaceae. It grows as a small shrub with large clusters of red, yellow, white, pink, or orange flowers that standout like puffballs from the evergreen foliage continuously throughout the year. The plant has glossy leathery leaves that are oval shaped and stiff growing on woody stems.

Started and grown year-round, ixoras are easier to grow outdoors in full sun; nevertheless, maintaining an ixora plant indoors and keeping it blooming can be a challenge. In any case, they are slow growers and require judicious pruning and patience to grow it into a large showy shrub with vibrant flower clusters that bloom through the year.

Common name: West Indian Jasmine, Jungle Geranium, Flame of the Woods, and Jungle Flame

Botanical name: Ixora coccinea, Ixora chinensis

Sunlight: Full to partial sun for vibrant flowering

Air: Well-ventilated plants to avoid black sooty mould infestation. Keep your ixora away from cold drafts that will cause the plant to drop leaves.

Soil: Well-draining potting mix with rich organic matter

Water: Watering regularly to keep the soil moist at all times.

Fertilisers: Before spring with a slow release fertiliser. Or every alternate week with a regular houseplant fertiliser.

Issues: Aphids, Scales, ad Black sooty mould are the only concern but can be dealt with easily.

Sunlight for ixora

Ixoras love the tropical sun. They are their happiest when they get 8-10 hours of direct to partial light in a day. Keep your plants out of the afternoon sun in the harsh summer months to avoid leaf burn. While ixoras can live easily in indirect light, flowering will be infrequent and in smaller clusters.

Placement for ixora

When grown outdoors Ixoras can be grown easily in any spot; however, if you live in areas with harsh dry summer months, ensuring that the plant is shaded from the sun is important to prevent leaf burn. Indoors, keeping an ixora blooming and happy is a little difficult, place it in a spot that gets 7-8 hours of sunlight – direct or partial. A south or west-facing windowsill is a great spot.

Watering for ixora

Ixora likes its soil to be consistently moist, but like all other plants it hates soggy soil. Keep the growing medium rich and well-draining and the soil moist at all times. A good rule of thumb is that the soil should never be allowed to dry out.

Water them often—the right amount will depend on the weather conditions in your area, though watering frequency will decrease considerably in monsoon and winter.

When watering an extremely dried out soil (visible cracks and soil leaving the planter walls) water in batches. Watering all at once allows the water to simply pass through the soil without getting absorbed.

Every time a plant is watered, water it thoroughly till you see some draining out of the drainage hole and always empty the under plate.

Soil for ixora

For a lush and flowering ixora plant, use a soil mixture that is rich in organic matter and peat-based. Ixoras love an acidic soil pH that helps the plant grow thick leathery leaves and bigger bunches of vibrant flowers. Soil mixtures that have a pH level above 7.0 can cause the plant to undergo chlorosis and have a dull foliage colour.

Fertilisers for ixora

Fertilise your ixoras with a slow release fertiliser at the start of spring to get the plant ready for the growth spurt in the warmer months. Augmenting the soil with a handful of good quality compost in the topsoil every month is also a great way to make the plants healthier.

Using a generic houseplant fertiliser every two weeks boosts foliage growth and increases flowering frequency.

Pruning of ixora

Prune your ixora plant after it the blooms die back on the stem to increase branching and diverting growth hormones towards more flowering. Prune your ixora bush to shape it into the desired tidy shape. Ixora plants take very well to pruning and can be trimmed down to only one bud if needed. Flowers bloom on new growth, so pruning tips to promote branching is a great way to increase the blooms on your plant.

Propagating an ixora plant

To propagate your ixora plant, take cuttings in the spring. Ensure that the cutting is from the greener part of the stem to increase chances of rooting. The cutting should have at least 2 to 3 leaf nodes that can be buried into the soil. Rooting ixora is difficult and you might have to use rooting hormone for higher chances of success.

Plant problems for ixora

The major concerns that Ixora plants need protection from are aphids and scale. They are more of a nuisance than a deterrent and can be easily controlled with timely action. Use neem oil spray to keep the pests away.

If your plant’s leaves develop dark spots, it is a clear indication of iron and manganese deficiency. Chlorosis of leaves is a sign of imperfect potting mix, the ixora loves acidic soil pH and it helps the plant grow healthier foliage and bigger brighter blooms.

In winters, the temperatures dip and so does the light levels and this slows down the hormonal activity in the plants forcing the plants into a state of dormancy. The dormancy translates into no or very rare new growth in terms of new foliage or increase in size, so through winter, your plants are essentially sleeping, storing energy to give their best when spring rolls in. As gardeners, it falls on us to give the plants the proper care to ready them for the spring growth spurt.

Plants love spring. It’s the start of the growing season and all plants come alive, whether they are at home or out in the wild and its time to kick up the care routine a notch. Plants outside respond to a change in seasons to make sure they transition to the next one for maximum benefit. Indoor plants on the other hand need a little help to make the best use of the changing season.

So here is a list of things you can do to give your plants the leg up.

Water your plants right

While watering houseplants in winter is on need only basis and it reduces in frequency, as the temperature starts warming you will find that your plants need to be watered more frequently. This is essential to compensate for the evaporation of water due to climbing temperatures and an increase in the rate of photosynthesis due to brighter sunlight.

To avoid overwatering, increase the watering frequency gradually. Keep track of how quickly the topsoil is drying out after every watering to get an idea of how many times you need to water your plants in a week.

Clean and dust your plants

Cleaning and dusting the leaves of your plants is not only good for your mental health and the plant’s looks, it’s also essential to help them breathe better and boost their rate of photosynthesis. The dust that settles on the leaves stops the leaf’s surface from absorbing light, this hampers the rate of photosynthesis. The leaf surface is full of tiny openings called stomata through which leaves take part in the exchange of gases, dust blocks these pores and lowers the rate at which plants breathe.

While the dusting of leaves is something that needs to be done regularly, it is more important when spring sets in. If you have smaller plants, take them to the bathroom and give them a nice long shower and let them stay in there for a couple of hours to soak up all the humidity.

For larger plants, you can mist down the leaves with plain water and then wipe them with a soft cloth.

Take care to avoid this step for cacti and succulents, brushing them with a dry paintbrush helps. Or if you can time your succulent watering to leaf cleaning you can wash them but take care not to damage the root ball and don’t let them sit in the bathroom, dry them quickly.

I personally discourage you from using leaf shiners available in the market they do nothing for plant health.

Re-pot or pot up your plants

Start of spring is a great time to change the soil of your plants or repot them into bigger pots if they are rootbound. Spring means new root and shoot growth, so your plants will appreciate the extra space. Furthermore, since the growth hormones are in hyperdrive and the plant is essentially happy, the chance of it going into shock are very little, if proper steps are followed during repotting.

Adding slow release fertilisers and compost to your potting mix at this time is also a great idea since the plants are ready to absorb nutrients after a dry spell in the winters. Keep fertilising your plants with a generic houseplant fertiliser every three weeks from spring to the onset of next winter, essentially Diwali time, to help your plants get the maximum growth.

Its also the perfect time to start your seed garden and propagate new plants.

Prune and trim your plants the right way

Most of our houseplants come from tropical areas and are not fans of winter and if you live in an area that experiences winters below 15 degree Celsius on average, it messes with their natural growing rhythms.

Plants react to this stress by dropping leaves, yellowing, becoming leggy, browning, and wilting etc. Spring is a good time to prune away those leggy stems, leafless branches, and make space for new bushier growth.

Cutaway any yellowing leaves, or leggy vines with tiny leaves, and also make judicious cuts to promote new branches to grow for a fuller plant. Especially in the case of flowering plants, selective pruning means more branches and more flowers on those branches.

Reposition your plants for maximum benefits

Whatever part of the country you live in, it is obvious that you have moved your plants during winters. People in cold areas have moved their plants indoors to save them from biting cold and people in slightly warmer areas have shifted them outdoors to the balconies or near windows to make sure the plants get as much light as possible in the tepid winter sun.

With spring, the light intensity is increasing again, and its time to reposition your plants. The sun-loving plants go back into the sun, while the indoor plants come back out of the harsh sun to avoid leaf burns.

Move your tropical and vining plants to areas with indirect or partial light, move your succulents and sun-loving plants to the sun.

If spring in your area is mild with pleasant temperatures and mild sunlight, you might want to consider moving your indoor plants into at least the morning sun to boost active growth.

Spring is a season of changes in the garden – new leaves, new flowers, and everything is refreshed. Spring is the gardener’s best friend and it is time for you to welcome it into your homes with all the prep.

Don’t forget to stock up on potting supplies and seeds for the season.

Happy gardening!

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The name Anthurium is derived from the Greek words “anthos” and “oura,” meaning “tail flower.” Originally found in areas of the Andes Mountain range in Colombia and Ecuador, the colourful “flowers” of the Anthurium are actually modified leaves. The true flowers are the yellow cylindrical structures growing from the centre called an inflorescence.

As a tropical plant, the anthurium is very easy to care for and extremely robust. The anthurium loves warmth and light and little but of sunlight. It grows dormant for 5-6 weeks during winter if you live in cold areas and springs right back into blooms as soon as the weather gets warmer and the sun comes up.

Red anthurium plant

Let’s take a look at the detailed care guide for anthuriums to make your home garden brighter.

Common name: Anthurium, Tailflower, Flamingo Flower, and Laceleaf

Botanical name: Anthurium andraeanum

Sunlight: Bright indirect sunlight to partial sunlight

Air: Warm and well-ventilated and humid with frequent misting

Soil: Very well-draining soil with organic matter. A mix of equal parts Ugaoo Pot-o-mix and garden soil, with a part of perlite or wood chips, works well.

Water: Water when the top inch of the soil is dry to touch. Keep the soil moist but do not overwater.

Fertilisers: Once every two to three weeks. Withhold fertilisers in winters.

Issues: Rot due to overwatering and aphids and spider mites

Sunlight

Anthuriums prefer bright indirect light and do exceedingly well with a few hours of morning or evening sun. But keep it out of the scorching afternoon sun that may burn the leaves. The brighter the light the plant receives and for the greater number of hours, the more blooms it will produce.

Placement

Anthuriums do extremely well indoors in bright indirect light or partial sun. They flower more, with bigger blooms, when they get some direct light in the morning or evening, so a spot near an east or west-facing window is a great choice. Keep them away from south-facing windows to avoid leaf burn.

Pink anthurium plant

Place it on your side tables or centre tables for a permanent and long-lasting floral arrangement that will brighten up your home forever.

Watering

Water thoroughly when the first inch of the soil becomes dry to the touch till the water drains out of the drainage hole at the bottom and always drains the bottom plate to avoid overwatering. The more light and warmth the Anthurium gets, the more frequently it will need to be watered.

Droopy leaves with browning leaf tips and shrivelling aerial roots are signs of an underwatered plant. Anthurium loves a humid environment, so you can mist every day. Try to use a pebble tray, or a humidifier during the dry winter months.

When watering an extremely dried out soil (visible cracks and soil leaving the planter walls) water in batches. Watering all at once allows the water to simply pass through the soil without getting absorbed.

Every time a plant is watered, water it thoroughly till you see some draining out of the drainage hole and always empty the underplate.

Soil

Anthuriums need a rich but well-draining soil that drains out quickly but holds moisture. A half and half mix of potting soil and Ugaoo’s Pot-o-Mix works well. You can also use a mix of regular potting soil, compost, and wood chips, anthurium plants don’t like continually moist soil.

Fertilisers

Feed your Anthuriums with a generic houseplant fertiliser every three weeks, diluted as instructed on the packaging. Fertilising during the growing period (other than winter) is important.

Ensure that the fertilisers have the three major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Ugaoo’s Plant Tonic and NPK are great options for both root and foliar applications.

Pruning

Make it a point to remove fading and dying flowers, to redirect the plant’s energy towards new growth. This helps the plant focus its energy on new growth. Avoid pruning your plant during winter when it is dormant.

Repotting an Anthurium plant

White anthurium

When your anthurium has gotten too big for its pot with roots coming out of the drainage holes and the top has gotten too tall and is toppling the plant, repotting is the way to go. Spring is the best time to repot your anthurium as it is in a growth spurt. Fertilise your anthurium at the time of repotting with a good handful of compost and pot it in extremely well-draining soil.

Pro Tips

1. Fertilise your anthurium with a fertiliser high in phosphorus to promote flowering.
2. Use a well-draining soil that is a good mix of aerators and water absorbers.
3. Rootbound anthuriums have stunted growth. So repot you anthurium when it gets too big for its pot.

Plant problems

1. Browning tips are a sign of underwatering or infrequent watering.
2. Burnt leaf spots are a sign of too much sunlight
3. Green flowers are a sign of forced flowering.

Happy gardening!

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Very much like most of you, I am a gardener too or maybe ‘plant lover’ is a better choice of words. My love affair with plants started not long back or maybe it was always there, deep in my bones like it is for most of you, waiting to be realised.

Being brought up in Mumbai (then Bombay), there was always too little space and too many things to do in a day. In the daily life of a student in India’s fastest metropolis there was very little time to stop and smell the roses, but those few outings to the Hanging garden, Sanjay Gandhi National Park, or the Aarey Colony are still vividly etched in my mind. The sudden drop in temperature around the trees, the rustling of wind through the leaves, the vivid colours of flowers, the elusive butterflies – I remember it all. Add to this our yearly trips back home to the North of the country during summer vacations, where afternoons were spent in family owned mango and litchi orchards climbing trees and the want or ache for having greenery around me just grew.

Neither the concrete jungle around me, nor the growing lack of time allowed me the liberty to lessen my ache for greenery. This is the point in my life where I moved to the Konkan belt for my studies and anyone who has seen Konkan in monsoon knows what I am talking about, when I say – green is the colour of life! You live in Konkan and don’t fall in love with greenery is a highly improbable concept – you can imagine what it did to my green starved heart.

Then came my move to Pune and from here grew my garden. The comparatively slower and more idyllic life, abundance of space in my new home, excellent weather, and the abundance of nurseries all helped push me on my gardening journey, and boy was I missing out! Growing plants is a joy that cannot be explained only experienced, it is not something drastic that hits you one day, rather it grows on you and makes you feel as if it was always there.

There is no greater love story than you and your first plant. For me, my first plant was the Boston fern – the feathery leaves, the beautiful shade of green, and its bushy form pulled me in. It came to me in a 5 inch planter and over a span of 3 years the plant grew to almost two and a half feet across in diameter with such lush leaves that even I have no explanation for it, may be plants do understand love and reciprocate or first plant truly is the same as first love. It might as well be the earliest way of showing love –  our first pets, our first décor, and our first support system since the beginning of time.

The joy of seeing the first leaf spring up under your care, the first flower bud and spread its petals, the first butterfly in your garden, and the first time a plant overgrows its original planter are all milestones that cannot be replicated. The love for plants is something that has only grown for me and no new plant seems enough – I always want one more.

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Science explains this love as biophilia – our innate attractions to living flora and fauna. Being next to plants releases serotonin (the happy hormone) in our body and it caresses and eases our soul. Getting your hands dirty in the mud, touching leaves and flowers, and looking at those roots are a love affair. There are some things that cannot be truly put in words and the feelings plants evoke are that. If you don’t believe me, look at the floral bed and cushion covers, botanical prints on your walls, and your vacation photos – we all are seeking nature in our own way.

Every valentine day my husband gives me a flowering plant – and I have all 4 of them with me, they hold a special place in my heart. Every time those plants flower they remind me of the love we share and I am so thankful he didn’t get me bouquets that would wilt in a day or two or knick-knacks that would gather dust on the shelf. My valentine plants grow with time, just like our love and life – what could be a better representation of love than a plant that grows with us. So ditch those clichés and gift yourself and your loved one’s a plant – start your own love story.

– Sneha

Happy Valentine’s day!

Celebrate love with Ugaoo.

Being a tropical country growing herbs in India is very easy and rewarding – but in some parts of the country entirely seasonal. Keeping the seasonal changes in mind, February to March is one of the best times to sow your herb seeds when the weather is starting to warm up and the sun is shining again. One of the best things about growing herbs is their versatility in terms of location. Most herbs can be grown either inside or outside, in containers or directly in the ground, given that the spot receives plenty of direct sunlight.

Lets take a look at some easy to grow herbs and how to grow them:

Sage

Sage is used majorly in chicken dishes, roasts, and certain sauces for pastas and gravies. The sage plant has a very the strong flavour and a single plant should be good enough for all kitchen requirements. The sage herb also dries very well to be stored for long term use.

Sage grows well in areas that get a full day of sun, almost 5 to 7 hours, irrespective of whether it’s in a balcony or window or an open garden. Keep the soil loose and well-draining and water only when the topsoil is dry to touch. Feed your sage plant with a liquid fertiliser every three weeks, starting from spring.

Parsley

Parsley is a classic Italian herb that finds a place of fame in the crowd favourite pasta dishes. While the curly leaf parsley is less flavourful and is mostly used as a garnish or decoration, it’s the flat leaf parsley that adds an edge to the flavour profile of any dish.

When sowing parsley seeds, do not bury the seeds, rather sprinkle it over the potting medium and spray water. Cover this with a poly bag to maintain humidity. Parsley needs soil rich in organic matter but extremely well-draining in nature. Select a spot that gets full to partial sun and keep the plant hydrated. The key factor in a good parsley harvest is the quality of soil.

Oregano

Oregano may be just one of the most commonly heard, consumed, or sold Mediterranean herbs in India, all thanks to the pizza places. When grown in open ground, the oregano shrub is a perennial plant that dies down in winter and comes back up in every spring.

You can grow oregano in containers as well as open ground. It thrives in likes light, well-drained soil, in a spot that gets sunlight through the day. Allow the soil to dry out in between watering cycles and a generic fertiliser every month. The oregano plant should be harvested by pinching the growing tip.

Mint

Mint is one of the most refreshing and flavourful herbs, but at the same time it is also an invasive species. It has the overwhelming tendency to take over any free space it can. This makes it the ideal candidate for growing in containers. There are over 24 species of mint and more than seven thousand varieties with slight variations in flavour and traits.

The two most commonly grown types of mint are peppermint and spearmint. Mint is not particular about the kind of soil it grows on but does better in rich but well-draining soil that holds water, hence cocopeat is a good growing medium. The mint plant requires at least 2-3 hours of bright sunlight to thrive and does exceedingly well with a soil that s maintained moist but not soggy.

Thyme

Thyme has aromatic leaves on a low-growing evergreen plant. Its flavour depends on the variety chosen and is commonly used in meat dishes, soups, and stews.

Thyme love dry loose soil in spots they get good sun. When plating thyme in containers, try and select terracotta pots that allow the soil to dry out in between waterings. Prune back woody stems and regularly snip the tips of the plants to encourage new growth and bushy plants.

Basil

Basil is the hero of Italian cooking, be it pastas, pizzas, soups, sauces, or even garnish in salads. Basil grows easily and joyously when its basic needs are met and the extra harvest can be preserved well by freezing, making oils, or simply drying it.

Basil should be planted in planted in the late spring (march) to allow them the time to thrive during the hot summer months. Give the basil plant a well-draining soil with at least 4-5 hours of sun. water deeply and allow the soil to dry out in between watering cycles. As temperatures drop the growth decreases and will halt come winter.

Happy gardening!

Hoya is loved as a fragrant, low-maintenance tropical flowering plant. Their slow to moderate growing style makes them easy to manage. The entire Hoya family is pet safe. There is a Hoya for every gardener, whether you like long variegated leaves, rounded fleshy leaves, or twisted rope like leaves, you will find a hoya you love. Despite the varying kinds of foliage, the care remains the same for all hoya plants.

Let’s take a look at its care tips and learn how to make show love to your Hoya plant

Common name: Wax Plant, Porcelain flower plant

Botanical name: Hoya carnosa, hoya kerrii, Hoya australis, etc

Famous plant members: Eskimo, Retusa, Bella, Fitchii, Shepherdii, etc

Sunlight: Partial to bright indirect sunlight

Air: Well ventilated

Soil: Very well-draining soil with organic matter. A mix of equal parts Ugaoo Pot-o-mix and garden soil, with a part of perlite should work well.

Water: When the potting is almost dry. Allow the soil to dry out in between waterings.

Fertilisers: Once every two to three weeks

Issues: Rot due to overwatering and aphids, mealy bugs, and spider mites

Sunlight for Hoya

The Hoya is native to Asia and prefers bright indirect sunlight. It also does good in partial light, with morning or evening sun. It is wise to keep the hoya out of the harsh afternoon sun to avoid leaf burn.

Placement of Hoya

Hoyas do extremely well indoors in bright indirect light. Place them next to a natural light source like windows facing any direction. In case, you have a south or west-facing room, you can keep the plant almost anywhere in the room till its view of the window is not blocked.

Hoyas look great in hanging baskets too, hang them on your windowsills or north and east-facing balconies to enjoy their stunning foliage gently swaying in the breeze.

Watering of Hoya

Hoyas love their soil to be dried out in between to watering sessions. Keep an eye on the soil colour and texture to determine when the soil is almost dry and then water. Don’t let the potting mix remain dry for long.

Hoyas are in a manner of speaking tropical succulents that do better with underwatering than overwatering. However, being tropical they love their occasional misting for humidity.

When watering an extremely dried out soil (visible cracks and soil leaving the planter walls) water in batches. Watering all at once allows the water to simply pass through the soil without getting absorbed.

Every time a plant is watered, water it thoroughly till you see some draining out of the drainage hole, and always empty the under plate.

Soil for Hoya

Hoyas love being root bound in a very well-draining soil mix. A smaller planter ensures that much of the plant’s energy is devoted to flowering and leaf growth rather than growing roots to fill up the large planters.

Hoyas don’t like wet soil and prefer a growing medium that is almost epiphytic in nature. You can use a mix of succulent potting mix with equal parts regular potting mix or a mix of equal parts of orchid potting mix and regular potting mix.

Fertilisers for Hoya

Feed your Hoyas with a generic houseplant fertiliser every three weeks, diluted as instructed on the packaging. Fertilising during the growing period of spring and summer is especially important, as they are slow growers and the growing season must be capitalised upon.

Ensure that the fertilisers have the three major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Ugaoo’s Plant Tonic and NPK are great options for both root and foliar applications.

Pruning of Hoya

When the Hoya flowers have withered away, don’t cut the flower stalk as it might grow some new flowers on the same stalk. If you want to propagate hoya, take a stem cutting with at least two leaf nodes. Strip away the lower leaves and retain only the top one or two leaves, submerge the exposed leaf node either in soil or water and keep it in an area with partial sunlight and wait for the roots to appear.

Plant problems for Hoya

1. Yellow and floppy leaves mean that your Hoya could be overwatered. Water only when the soil is dry to touch.
2. Brownish and dehydrated leaves indicate excessive heat and lack of humidity.
3. A limp hoya is generally a sign of either overwatering or underwatering. Check the soil and err on the side of underwatering.
4. Etiolated or leggy plants with extra-large spaces in between leaves is a sign of lack of light.
5. Stalled growth can be either due to lack of light, no nutrients, or hibernation in winters.
6. The buds in hoya plants fall as a response to watering problems. Do not let the soil dry out for too long and mist occasionally.
7. Your hoya plant might not flower if you keep them away from the sun for too long. To make your hoya flower, place them in at least morning or evening sun in the flowering season o spring or summer.
8. Hoyas are vulnerable to sap-sucking pests like aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites. Wipe down with soap solution and spray neem oil.
9. Shift your hoya indoors if you experience harsh winters to avoid leaf loss.

Happy gardening!

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Our hunter-gatherer ancestors noticed that flowers gave rise to fruits that could be eaten. This led them to believe that flowers signalled an anticipated harvest and made flowers instantly attractive to them and spoke to them on the level of survival, an instinct that we seem to have inherited. Many modern cultures consider flowers to be attractive and it is known that scholars have been fascinated with flowers for millennia, either for their beauty or their function. Flowers not only form the crux of our food cycle and lend beauty to our arts, but they are also a major part of all social and religious celebrations across the cycle of societal evolution. From joyous celebrations to festivals, to death – flowers find a place everywhere, and trust me there is one for every occasion.

With the boom in number of people involved in home gardening in the past decade, the foliage plants have ruled the plant world, while the flowering plant has trailed behind slightly. This trend can also be due to the fact that we city dwellers have very little outside space for flower beds or gardens. This is where we step in, to give you a comprehensive list of the best flowers for Indian homes.

Before diving into the list of flowers and their specific characteristics, let’s take a look at the general care tips for flowering plants.

1. Flowering plants require comparatively more sunlight than their counterparts. While there are both sun and shade loving flowering plants, the sun loving ones need longer or brighter light than their sun-loving foliage counterparts and so on.
2. Since, the plants need more light, it directly translates to the fact that they need more water too. More light means a higher rate of photosynthesis and evaporation, that increases the frequency of watering, especially in the flowering season.
3. Once the flower has withered away on the stem (if you have not cut the flowers for use), always prune away the spent flower to the next leaf node (deadheading). This boosts both branching and flowering.
4. Always fertilise your flowers with a well-balanced fertiliser like the Ugaoo Plant Tonic for healthy blooms through the season. Fertilise before the flowering season starts and through it every 2 to 3 weeks but avoid fertilising as frequently in the dormant season.

Indoor flowering plants

While all flowers need a good amount of light to flower, so me do exceedingly well in bright-indirect light that can be found on windowsill and in south or west facing corners of indoor spaces. Here is a list of indoor flowering plants

1. Peace lily:

   The elegant queen of indoor flowering plants. They are famous for their lush foliage in lower light conditions but need bright indirect light (or a few hours of direct light) to flower from the end of winter through summer. They are excellent air purifiers, which like their topsoil to dry out in between waterings, but not too much. Fertilise them regularly every three weeks both with direct root application and foliar spray.

2. Anthurium:

Also known as the flamingo plant, named after is blooms that are as flamboyant as the flamingo dancers. This plant loves bright indirect light and does great on windowsills with bright indirect or direct light. The anthurium flowers for more than 250 days a year with each bloom lasting for months. Keep the soil moist but not soggy and fertilize once every 2-3 weeks through the year.

3. Gloxinia:

A true indoor flowering plant that loves bright indirect light to flower but can’t stand the direct sun. Keep them in your well-lit rooms with south or west-facing windows. Keep the soil moist and strictly avoid wetting the foliage, wet leaves cause brown spots. If allowed to dry out after their blooming season the plants go dormant in cold temperatures only to pop up again when the weather gets warmer.

4. African violet:

Another true indoor plant that thrives in indirect light is found indoors. These velvety plants are a treat for sore eyes. Keep them indoors in well-lit rooms out of the direct sun to avoid burn on north or east-facing windowsills. Let the soil dry out completely in between waterings and fertilise every three weeks and also spray it with neem oil once a month. Avoid wetting the velvety foliage.

5. Orchid:

The oriental queens are dreaded and loved by home gardeners in equal measures. They love bright indirect light and a potting mix that is kept evenly moist. The trick to keep your orchids happy is to give them a fixed spot that is well-lit and well-ventilated. Always use an orchid potting mix and fertilise when the plant is not in bloom to help with leaf and root development.

6. Hoya carnosa:

One of the ‘IT’ plants of this year; they are steadily climbing the popularity chart globally. With its curious-looking foliage that resembles a ribbon that has twisted on itself, it is also known as the Hindu Rope Hoya or the waxflower plant. It gives beautiful blooms that grow in clusters and have a mild fragrance. Keep it in a brightly lit room and water when the top inches of the soil are dry to touch. Fertilize the plant once every 2 weeks for good growth.

7. Impatiens:

The true plant of the shade, they love partial to deep shade to flower. The flowers are richly pigmented and grow low on equally stunning leaves. Plant them in a well-draining potting mix that is kept moist at all times, drooping leaves are a sign of dehydration. Fertilise every two weeks and avoid wetting the foliage when watering.

Outdoor flowering plant

There are so many flowering plants that bloom in sunlight that all the time in the world is less to talk about them. Even famously foliage plants like the monstera or the snake plant spout flowers in their natural environment. While there are a number of flowering plants that you can keep in your sunny window boxes and balconies, here are a few of the most loved ones.

1. Kalanchoe:

For all intents and purposes, kalanchoes are flowering succulents. They love the full sun, hate being overwatered, and thrive in well-draining potting mixes. With proper light in west or a south-facing sunny corner. Kalanchoes will bloom for the most part of the year. Prune away dead and spent flower heads to promote bushier growth and water only when the soil is completely dry. Fertilise the plants every 3 weeks through the year with a generic houseplant fertiliser.

2. Black Eyed Susan:

With their cheery yellow blooms, highlighted further with almost black centres, the Black Eyed Susan grows profusely in the warm Indian climate. This vining plant needs full sun to grow to its full glory. Water regularly till the plant is established and then water only when the topsoil is dry to touch. Always deadhead the flowers to keep the plant shapely and encourage more flowers. Feed regularly post-winter through the warmer months.

3. Hydrangeas:

These exotic big, clustered flowers are still not that common but everyone who knows them loves them. They are not that dependent on full sun and can do well in morning sun or dappled sun through the day. Plant them in loose soil with a  good amount of compost but keep them well ventilated. These cool-season plants might reward you with blooms even in summers if you keep them out of the scorching sun and feed them every 3 weeks with a generic house plant fertiliser and augment the soil with compost.

4. Hibiscus:

There is nothing more tropical than a hibiscus plant. A permanent fixture for Hindu rituals, the hibiscus is an easy plant to grow if you can control the love mealy bugs have for it. Hibiscus or the shoe flowers loves full sun and a loose well-draining soil to grow in. Let the soil dry out in between waterings and avoid wetting the foliage to keep the bugs away, Quarantine and clean with soap solution and spray it down with neem oil at the first sign of mealy bugs.

5. Adenium:

Adeniums or desert roses are just as famous for their delicate blooms as they are for their bulbous stems. This miniature tree-looking plant loves the full sun and in true desert plant, fashion needs water only when the soil is completely dry. Plant it in a loose well-draining potting mix resembling its native growing condition and fertilise it every 3 weeks in the warmer growing months.

6. Geraniums:

The sun lovers, the mere presence of sunlight makes them thrive like nobody is watching. With their citrus-smelling leaves and bright colorful flowers that grow on tall arching stems, they are your best choice for the scorching afternoon sun. They flower throughout the year in sun and can be grown in almost all kinds of soil, provided it is kept moist and not soggy. Make sure to deadhead spent blooms to promote bushy growth and more flowers.

7. Gardenia:

If someone could bottle the fragrance of gardenia, they could make a fortune. But nothing smells like a  gardenia in full bloom. Considered finicky for their bud-dropping habit, having a happy gardenia is simply a balance of light and moisture. Give the plant a good 4-5 hours of sun and keep the soil moist at all times. A little bit of misting early morning also helps. Make sure to fertilize gardenias every few weeks and prune well or a bushy plants with plenty of flowers.

8. Jasmine:

The mogra plant family has so many variants that you can take your pick. The care remains fairly simple for all of them. Jasmines love the full sun and like staying moist. Deadhead the flowers once they have withered away and prune happily to promote more rapid growth and more flowers. Fertilize every couple of weeks and water when the topsoil is dry, but don’t let it dry out entirely.

9. Roses:

What is a flower garden without a rose plant? Whether you like the whimsical Indian roses, the sturdy Dutch roses, the button roses, or the creeping roses, there is one rose for every home. The rose plant loves partial to full sunlight and rich but well-draining soil. Make sure to not wet the foliage while watering and pruning well for a bushy plant with plenty of blooms. Fertilize regularly every 2 weeks with a good balanced fertilisers. Ground-up onion peels also make for good fertilizer for rose plants.

10. Bougainvillea:

The true summer flowers, that can lend Tuscan countryside feels to any home. Extremely easy to grow for, just give them all the sun and very little water. Fertilise it every month with a basic fertiliser and the plant is in general pest free, the only major plant issue is overwatering.

11. Periwinkle:

The sadaabahar or the nityakalyani as it is famously known in India is a quintessential Indian plant. Its famous for its ease of growing and how profusely it flowers through the year. The periwinkle can grow in partial to full sun with ease and also does well in north facing balconies. Water the plant when the topsoil is dry to touch and prune regularly for a bushy plant with a lot of flowers. Fertilize every few weeks and keep the foliage dry.

12. Morning glory:

Morning glory loves the full sun but can live well in the partial sun too with ease. Famous as a tough vining plant that booms with ease in stunning blue flowers in any kind of soil and growing conditions. Give them a trellis or window grill to climb and water when the topsoil is dry to touch.

13. Bengal clock vine:

The thunbergia, much like the morning glory is a tough vining plant that can thrive in blistering sun when other plants tend to burn. Famous for its habit of twining only clockwise, the thunbergia needs a trellis or growing support to climb on. Keep the soil moist and foliage dry. Fertilise every 2-3 weeks for plenty of blooms.

14. Bleeding heart vine:

Flowering vines for your north or east-facing balconies or windows where they get plenty of bright light but are also shaded from the harsh afternoon sun. Plant them in a rich and well-draining soil mix and water only when the topsoil is dry to touch but don’t let it dry out completely. Fertilize every 2 weeks in the flowering season.

15. Mandevilla:

They need full sun of south or west-facing balconies to grow to their full glory. These hardy vining plants flower profusely in the hot summer months when planted in a rich and well-draining potting medium. Fertilize it with a phosphorous-rich fertilizer for more flowers. Water the plant only when the soil is completely dry as the plant likes being on the drier side.

There are many more flowering plants that can brighten up your garden from the majestic and tall frangipani to the commonly beautiful marigolds, take your pick. They are easy to care for and instantly make your home happier by leaps and bounds.

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Food and water are the two most basic and irreplaceable necessities for the sustenance of life – be it humans, animals, birds, or plants. For plants, water performs more functions than just hydration and light is the only source of food and they need plenty of it. For a healthy garden, the right kind of light plays a very important role – too much or too little and it starts to show in the shape of the plants, the size of the blooms, and also the colour of the leaves.

To understand how plants convert light into food, we will have to revisit the science we learned in school and take a look at photosynthesis. By definition, photosynthesis is the process by which green plants and some other organisms use sunlight to synthesize nutrients from carbon dioxide and water. The plant cell organelles called chloroplasts (they contain the pigment chlorophyll) trap light energy, this energy then stimulates a series of metabolic processes through which water (from the soil) and carbon-dioxide (from the air) undergo a chemical reaction to give oxygen (released into the air) and sugar (plant food).

6CO₂ + 6H₂O → C₆H₁₂O₆ + 6O₂

The sugar molecules plant food and are responsible for all plant growth from an increase in plant size, fruiting, and flowering, to immunity. So more, light means more plant food and more energy and that directly translates to healthier plants.

What happens to plants when the light is not right?

Most of us gardeners miss the signs of low light that our plants give us and start damage control assuming something else is wrong, while all that was needed was just a change in placement of the plant.

Too much light

Too much light has its own issues and the following are some of the symptoms of too much light:

1. Light is accompanied by heat and causes leaf burn (brown patches)
2. Too much light also causes bleaching of leaves (loss of chlorophyll) that causes lightening of leaf colour and eventual reduction in the rate of photosynthesis and decline in plant health
3. Leaves lose too much water (perspiration) to maintain the correct body temperature. If not monitored the plant can die of dehydration.

Too little light

Too little light is a deal-breaker and is much slower as far as the appearance of symptoms is concerned but if understood in time, it can be remedied easily.

1. Light is plant food, so low light means almost a complete stop in plant growth – plant height, smaller leaves, no flowering, and thin stems
2. Low light also leads to etiolation – the space between two leaves increases as the stem grows thinner and longer to reach towards the light
3. Long spells in low light conditions cause plants to shed leaves and the oldest leaves also turn yellow and die.
4. Loss of variegation. If the light is insufficient for your variegated plants, the plant will start producing more chlorophyll to make up for the low light. This is irreversible, although when placed in the correct light the new leaves will have variegations.
5. One indirect consequence of low light is overwatering. Low light means lower rate of photosynthesis and less water is lost through leaves and a subsequent reduction in watering frequency Is needed, which we sometimes miss and overwater our plants.

Types of light – quality & quantity

With the advancement in technology and extensive studies on photosynthetic processes we have understood that light is just not light but so much more than that. Light for plants has too major components

Quality

The quality of light refers to its colour and type of light. By colour, I am not referring to the colours we see but the colours that the plants thrive in the most. The plants need the entire broad spectrum of light, the leaves appear green because they reflect green light and hence green colour light is useless for plants.

The red spectrum of light or warm light encourages chlorophyll production along with flowering and fruiting and stem growth. The blue light spectrum or the cool light is the most important spectrum and is key to intense photosynthesis leading to vegetative growth and a strong root system, it plays a key role during the early stages of plant growth (seedling phase). Only some parts of the green and yellow spectrum of light is used by the plants and most of it is reflected by the leaves.

Quantity

The quantity of light refers to both the intensity of light that reaches the leaves and the duration for which this light is available. Natural light from the sun has far greater intensity and the broadest spectrum compared to any artificial source of light. The more the number of photons (light particles) that hit the leaf surface, the higher the rate of photosynthesis. While fruiting plants and some foliage plants like begonias need light at full intensity for best growth. The correct intensity of light is essential for plants to convert air, water, and basic minerals into complex molecules found in fruits, rich colour pigments in flowers, fragrance, and seed formation.

While the sun does not give the same intensity of light from sunrise to sunset, fruiting plants need at least 8-10 hours of light through the day and flowering plants need at least 4-5 hours of sunlight.

Let’s take a look at different categories in which indoor and outdoor light can be classified into.

Indoor Light

Indoor light is the sunlight you see within the confines of your home. It can be the light coming in from a window, through a curtain, on the patio, or just ambient light. It is important that we understand that indoor light is always 50 to 60% weaker than outdoor light because most of it reaches our homes after being reflected off nearby buildings, trees, and other such surfaces.

There are several categories of indoor light

Bright direct light

What is bright direct light? The yellow sunlight that falls directly on any surface is called bright direct light. This kind of light is accompanied by heat. To make it simpler to understand, this is the light we pull out our umbrellas and caps for and slather on layers of sunscreen.

Bright indirect light

What is bright indirect light? Bright indirect light is when the yellow beam of sunshine is not falling on your plants but the light is at maximum intensity. For a better understanding, sit down at the level of your plants, on the floor or table wherever you have placed your plant, and stay eye-level. Now, look towards the sky, your plant should have an unobstructed view of the blue sky (or grey, depending on the season), this is when your plant is getting bright indirect light.

Medium indirect light

What is medium indirect light? The light in which you can read comfortably, not the books printed in publishing houses but the bleeding ink of the text crammed on the daily newspaper. In this situation, if you sit at your plant’s level, you might not be able to see the sky but you have an unobstructed view of the source of natural light in your home, be it a window or a door.

Low light

What is low light? It needs to be understood that low light is not the absence of light but rather the presence of only ambient light. In this case, your plant might neither have a view of the sky or the window from which the light is filtering in, but there is still enough light for you to both read your book and also catch a quick nap on summer afternoons.

Artificial light

What is artificial light for plants? Artificial light for plants helps create the light spectrum in which plants thrive when natural light is not available. This situation can arrive if you live in a home that gets very little light either due to being in the shadow of nearby buildings or in areas that experience extremely cold dark winters. The artificial lights are easily available on eCommerce platform and are even easier to install, the only drawback is that plants need to be in close proximity of such lights for noticeable benefits.

Outdoor light

Outdoor light is the light you get out on the streets or terrace when the sky is directly overhead and when you are not in the confines of four walls and a roof.

Full sunlight

Loved by fruiting plants and trees, this is the light that makes you think twice about stepping out in the afternoon. No obstruction just the plant and the sun enjoying the day. In this case, the plant gets sunlight from all four directions, east, west, north, and south through different phases of the day for more than 8-10 hours from sunrise to sunset.

Partial sunlight

This is when the plant gets direct light only for a certain time of the day and generally happens when the sun is blocked as it moves from east to west. For example, an east facing balcony or terrace will get sunlight till 11 am and then the sun moves South. Whereas a West facing balcony or terrace will get the sun only past 3 in the afternoon when the sun moves from South to West.

Dappled light

This is the light you would get if you were standing under the shade of a tree or under the nursery sunshade. This is when tiny beams of light fall on patches of the plant. If your balcony or terrace falls in the shade of a tree or if you have installed a sunshade to protect your plants, the light they get is dappled light.

Different plants and their differing light needs

As mentioned several times in the preceding sections different plants need different quantities and qualities of light. While almost all ornamental plants live the happiest in bright indirect light, flowering plants need full sun for varying hours in the day.

The idea is to replicate the sun they get in their native growing conditions. For example, ferns and smaller tropical plants that grow on the forest floor need dappled or bright indirect light and tend to burn in full bright sunlight because they are soft leaves and soft stemmed and full sunlight rarely reaches the forest floor. On the other hand, succulents and herbs appreciate full sun because their native growing environments are such where they get full sun for most hours of the day.

While bright light plants generally can survive in lower light conditions, it’s not a permanent state. The effects of low light start manifesting with growth arrest and is generally followed by leaf drop and eventual death of the plant.

Choosing the right plant for the light in your home

It is very important to understand the kind of light you home gets and further the intensity of light a particular spot gets where you want to place the plant. If all your major sources of natural light (doors and windows) are facing the north, flowering plants and succulents will be next to impossible in indoor spaces, but tropical and low light plants like ferns, philodendrons, ZZ, aglaonemas, and more will do well.

If your doors and windows are in the south, more or less every option is open to you for indoor spaces. But if you want to place plants in a south facing balcony then tropical plants, vines, and aglaonemas will burn, but you can substitute them with flowering plants, succulents and other sun loving plants.

Hacks to increase the light in your home

We all love plants and if you have reached the last paragraph of this long piece then you certainly do. We want to have all kinds of plants in out garden – both indoor and outdoor, and if you, like me, are limited in your choices because your bedroom does not get the bright light your sitting room gets or vice versa, then I have some hacks for you.

1. If you want to keep a bright light-loving plant like the Monstera or Fiddle Leaf Fig in a corner that does not get sufficient light, every Sunday (or any day) drag your plant out into the balcony or a spot indoors that gets the brightest light (indirect or direct) and let the plant soak it up before putting it back in the designated spot. But when placing in direct light then avoid the afternoon sun.
2. Painting your walls white increases the reflected light inside your home making it easier for plants to absorb more light
3. Using mirrors strategically also increases the amount of reflected light or helps redirect sunlight into the home helping plants thrive.
4. Install a full spectrum of artificial light to help plants grow to their full potential.

I hope this helps you understand the important role light plays in plant health and growth. Reach out to us at Ugaoo if you have any more doubts and we will guide you through your gardening journey.

Happy gardening!

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Gardens are a physical personification of the gardener’s love, care, patience, and hard work. While we at Ugaoo truly believe that our garden’s should be a true representation of ourselves, it is fun to know what’s trending on the gardening world green carpet.

With every new year comes new possibilities, new trends, and new predictions. So let’s take a look at the top ten plants that are all set to make a bigger splash globally based on how people have reacted to them in the last year.

From the humidity loving ferns that can transform homes into a tropical forest to the quirky crinkly Hoya and exotic orchids, there is plenty to love in the trending plant list for 2022. And if you decide to include them amongst your plant babies, we also have their care tips for you.

1. Hoya

Hoya is truly having its moment under the sun. These gorgeous plants come in a plethora of shapes and sizes and have some of the most beautiful blooms in the indoor plant category. Place them on top shelves or in hanging planters for maximum impact.

Care: Hoyas are partial to bright indirect light, so a spot with at least a couple of hours of light in a day will be the best. Allow the soil to dry out in between waterings but don’t let it sit dry for long periods and use a rich but well-draining soil.

2. Syngonium

If there is one plant in this list that screams variety, its syngonium. They come in all sizes and colours, from the tiny Syngonium pixie for your tabletops to terrariums to the flamboyant Trileaf Wonder and the colours can range anywhere from white and green to pink and gold. Display them with pride on tabletops or in metallic stand planters.

Care: Syngonium or the arrowhead vines love bright light but can live happily in medium to low light areas, provided you give them a few hours of bright light every couple of weeks. Water your arrowhead when the top two inches of soil dries out and use a good mix of garden soil, compost, 10% perlite or drainage.

3. Philodendron Micans

Philodendrons have ruled the plant world for decades simply because of their sheer variety and how easy it is to take care of them. In the philodendron world the Micans is still unique and exotic and just as easy to care for. With its dark velvety leaves that tread the line of coffee and maroon with ease and its quick growth rate – it is here to rule our home. Let your Micans trail from shelves or hanging macramé planters for the best visuals.

Care: The Micans will live happily in bright indirect to medium light areas indoors as long as it is planted in a well-draining soil. Allow the soil to dry out in between waterings, curling leaves are a sign of dehydration. Use a mix of garden soil, compost, and perlite or wood chips for good drainage, Ugaoo’s Pot-o-mix works best.

4. Begonias

Begonias have some of the most interesting leaf patterns and shapes amongst all indoor plants. Begonias have always been loved by gardeners who are confident of their skills, from the silver patterned rex begonia to the Dusty Rose begonia for their flowers. Give your begonia a spot by the East window for morning sun and watch it create magic.

Care: Begonias love humidity – so misting is a must or plant them in terrariums. Use a well-draining but rich soil with organic matter and let the top two inches dry out in between waterings.

5. Ficus umbellata

The lesser known and the nicer cousin or the finicky boho prince of the indoor gardening world the Fiddle Leaf Fig, the Umbellata is steadily but surely coming into the limelight. It has large deep veined and heart shaped leaves on thin stems, making it a stunning centre piece for your home. Give it a spot by any window on in view of a natural source of light and it will be happy.

Care: The Umbellata thrives in bright indirect light and will appreciate a few hours of morning sun at least once every two weeks. Water it when the top two inches of soil is dry and keep the leaves clean. The plant prefers small pots with a well-draining and rich potting mix.

6. Satin Vine

Also known as the Satin Pothos, the Sciandipus pictus is garnering new admirers in the plant world every day. The plant is easy for new gardener’s and is loved by experienced ones for its distinctly coloured leaves and silvery variegations. This fast growing vine with heart shaped leaves looks equally good trailing from hanging planters and climbing moss poles.

Care: On account of it being a member of the pothos/money plant family the care is easy. It thrives in medium to bright indirect light and loves being watered when the soil is fairly dry. While it will be happy in most soil types, fertilise it in spring and summer for good growth.

7. Strelitzia Nicolai

It rose to never seen before popularity in 2021 and it’s all set to rule the scene in 2022, the Strelitzia Nicolai is also famously known as the banana plant or the bird of paradise plant. If you are going for the urban jungle vibe or if you just want one plant to do the job in your minimalistic décor, the banana plant is your answer. Place it in a well-lit spot by the south window for a good amount of sun and choose a dwarf variety when placing it indoors.

Care: The Bird of Paradise plant loves sun, give it at least 3-4 hours of direct sun and bright light at other times. Plant it in a rich soil with plenty of organic matter and good drainage and water it when the topsoil is dry to touch.

8. Ferns

Ferns are the oldest and most resilient plant on this planet, most of our current fossil fuel deposits are fossilised ferns and they are back to being favourites in 2022 – maybe they never went away. Ferns love humidity to grow and bright indirect light, much like the forest floor where they thrive. Plant them either in hanging planters or regular and cluster different varieties for maximum impact

Care: Ferns love humidity and more humidity, so misting regularly, humidifiers, or creating a plan microclimate is your best answer. Keep the soil moist at all times, but not soggy by using a potting mx that is extremely well draining with wood chips, perlite, garden soil and compost. Water when the topsoil dries out and place it in bright indirect light.

9. Smaller monsteras

Who doesn’t love the big leaved, fenestrated monsteras that spread tropical jungle vibe with their mere presence – but space is always an issue. This very problem made other monstera cousins super famous in 2021 and they are ready to take the mantle in 2022. Whether it’s the Raphidospora tetrasperma or Monstera momoi, they are just as stunning with a compact growth. While they will trail happily, we think they are excellent when allowed to climb.

Care: They are easy to care for and thrive in bright indirect light – a view of a natural light source is the best bet. Plant them in a well-draining mix and water when the top two inches of the potting mix dries out, fertilise it every two weeks in spring and summer for good growth.

10. Orchid

Once considered exotic and unattainable for the common folk, orchids are now grown easily in homes by the experienced few and are slowly catching steam and people are daring to try their hands at it. Orchids love spots with bright indirect light brightest possible with no direct afternoon sun and they don’t like to be shifted. Plant them in stunning ceramic planters and marvel at their beauty.

Care: They love to stay on a spot with bright indirect light and high humidity and don’t like to be moved frequently. Plant them in a mix of 80% woodchips and the rest sphagnum moss and cocopeat. Keep the mix moist at all times and fertilise only when the plant is not in bloom.

Happy gardening!

At Ugaoo, we try an address all your questions related to indoor gardening. So, here we are trying to answer some of the most common questions that arise regarding gardening.

Let’s dive right in!

How often should your garden be watered?

Water is needed by plants to transport food and hormone from one part to another, transport minerals and oxygen from roots to leaves, maintain turgid pressure to keep the plant upright, expiration though leaf surface to maintain plant body temperature and most importantly for photosynthesis. So various factors govern the quality of water your plant requires, some of which are:

More sunlight means a higher rate of photosynthesis – meaning more water will be required.

Summer months mean that more water will be lost by the plants to maintain optimum temperature in the plant – meaning more water required. Water also will be lost through soil.

Monsoon months reduce the rate of transpiration though leaf and the constant moisture reduces the rate at which the soil dries out, so less watering.

In winters, plants undergo dormancy which means lower rate of photosynthesis and the lack of bright sunlight also adds to it, thus reducing the need for water.

So, it is safe to say that the frequency of watering your plant needs will change with season, the best way to gauge I your plant needs to be watered is to check the soil. Water your plants every time the top two inches of your soil dries out.

Why is well-drained soil so crucial for plant health?

Roots are the life support system of the plant, both to keep them upright and to supply them water, minerals, and oxygen. It is a fairly unknown fact that a major chunk of the plant’s oxygen needs are fulfilled by the roots, and hence it is important that the soil have air pockets for the roots to use. A well-draining soil is essential for the following reasons

To prevent root rot. A well-draining soil means that the extra water will drain out fairly easily from the planter, thus preventing waterlogging and subsequent root rot.

A well-draining soil means loose coarse particles through which air can travel easily for the roots to absorb oxygen and transport it to the plant.

Loose soil makes it easier for the root system to grow and spread out and a good root system translates to better plant health.

Loose well-draining potting mix, as opposed to a loamy one, makes it easier to pot and repot plants.

What is the optimum soil pH level for potting mixes?

pH levels play an important role in plant health, as at certain pH levels the nutrient break down and its assimilation by plants happen better. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens, since most plants thrive in the 6.0 to 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral) range. Some plants (blueberries, azaleas) prefer more acidic soil, while a few (ferns, asparagus) do best in soil that is neutral to slightly alkaline.

To alter the pH of your soil to suit your plant needs, Acidic (“sour”) soil is made more alkaline by applying finely ground limestone or wood ash, and alkaline (“sweet”) soil is made more acidic by applying gypsum (calcium sulphate) or compost.

Is mulch the same as compost?

While both mulch and compost are basically dead plant parts and in the case or compost other organic material, they are both not the same.

Mulch is dry leaves that is gathered and dried over autumn or summer and used to cover naked soil for two reasons; one, to prevent erosion and aid in the flourishing of beneficial micro fauna under the leaf blanket, and second, to seal in the ground moisture and regulate soil temperature during cold winters and hot summers.

Compost on the other hand is decayed and broken down organic matter to a level where it resembles soil and the nutrients are extremely easy to assimilate for the plants. Compost serves the function of being extra nutrition for the plants.

What flowers are known to thrive in a shade garden?

Most indoor garden experience varying levels of shade and sun, and as sad as it may be, most flowering plants require direct sunlight to bloom. Here are some flowering plants that do well in shade:

1. Indian Pink (Spigelia marilandica)
2. Yellow Bleeding Heart (Corydalis lutea)
3. Dwarf Chinese Astilbe (Astilbe chinensis var. pumila)
4. Dwarf Chinese Astilbe (Astilbe chinensis var. pumila)
5. Hardy Begonia (Begonia grandis)
6. Creeping Veronica (Veronica umbrosa ‘Georgia’)
7. Leopard plant (Ligularia spp.)

However, shade does not translate to absence of light, it means a space where sunrays don’t all directly but is well-lit through the day. Foe e.g., a north facing balcony, under a tree, patios and so on.

Why is it important to prune your plants?

Pruning is one of the most important gardening activities. It removes dead and decaying organic matter from plants, promotes branching, makes space for new growth, and boosts overall plant health.

Why is it more important to fertilise potted plants?

It is infinitely more important to fertilise potted plants as compared to plants that grow in the ground because, the plants in the ground have access to infinite source of nutrients. These ground nutrients are replenished on a daily basis though decay of organic matter, animal excreta, rains, and beneficial microflora and fauna in the soil.

Whereas for a potted plant this entire ecosystem or natural replenishment is cut off. The plants use up the limited source nutrients stored in the soil fairly quickly and then the soil but an empty medium for support and water, other than the minuscule amount of nutrients that enter the soil through water and other microflora and fauna.

So it is important to add fertilisers to soil for good plant growth.

Which are the best indoor plants?

All indoor plants are great, but some of the easiest indoor plants to care for by beginners and experts alike are

1. Peperomia
2. Areca palm
3. Syngonium
4. Aglaonema
5. Philodendron and Pothos
6. Aralia
7. Sansevieria
8. ZZ plant

Is it easy to grow microgreens?

It is fairly easy to grow microgreens, especially compared to other plants. All you need is good quality microgreen seeds, a loose growing medium and a flat and wide planter with drainage holes.

Fill you planter with a well-draining potting mix ( an equal mix of compost, garden soil, perlite and cocopeat). Wet the potting mix and let the excess water drain away for an hour. Evenly sprinkle the microgreen seeds on top and place the planter in a slightly warm and well-lit area like your kitchen counter. Keep the soil moist at all times either through bottom watering or misting and you should have your microgreens ready for harvest (2-3 inches tall) in 7 to 10 days.

How often should we replace soils in pots?

While soil augmentation (addition of compost, fertilisers, and other beneficial soil additives) can be done on a monthly basis. There is no need to change the soil per se. However, it is advisable that plants should be repotted in fresh soil.

If the soil in your garden has been in use for years, you can mix it with a fair amount of compost and other fertilisers and leave it as such for it gain back its vitality.

Feel free to ask any questions you have in the comments and we will answer them.

Happy gardening!

When it comes to indoor gardens, there are a few different kinds of pests that are more common than the others. Let’s take a look at some of the most common pests.

1. Mealybugs: If you see oval-shaped insects covered with white cotton-like growth and waxy covering on your plant, it is a mealybug for sure. Although they infect and ravage the entire plant, they are partial to new growth, leaf axels, along the underside of the leaves, and in between inter-crossing leaves and stems.

Physically remove the mealybugs with a cotton swab or cotton pad dipped in alcohol (sanitizer), or soap solution and then spray the plant with neem oil solution. Repeat this every few days for at least a week or two.

2. Scale : Scales are a pretty common pest that appear along plant stems and sometimes leaves as hard bumps. The hard bumps are the external shells that protect the insects within. Adult scales are immobile and stick to the same spot and suck plant sap while the young ones travel to a spot and settle.

To get rid of scales, they need to be scraped off from the plant, but make sure to cover the soil to prevent the scales from falling into the soil. After you remove the scales, spray the plant with neem oil solution.

3. Spider Mites : Spider mites are tiny insects that are usually red or yellow in colour. The most common sign of their infestation is silky webbing around tender new growth that leads to greying and bleaching of leaves along with irregular new growth.

Maintaining good humidity helps keep the spider mites away, they thrive in dry hot climate. To get rid of them, prune away heavily infected areas and spray with neem oil every 3-4 days till the mites go away.

4. Fungus Gnat : Small insects buzzing around your plants are most probably fungus gnats. Extremely small and mostly black-grey in colour, they buzz around in growing season over moist soil with delicate wings. Fungus gnat larvae, however, feed on organic matter within the soil.

To get rid of these gnats, take care to let the topsoil dry before watering again to kill the larvae that thrive in moist soil. You can also use sticky traps or place a solution of ACV, water, and sugar in a bowl next to the plant to attract the gnats and make them drown.

5. Thrips : Thrips are long insects that are either white or light green in colour with bristle like wings.

Thrips have piercing mouths with which they attach to plants and suck the plant sap out. Injured plant tissue acquire a  silvery appearance that resembles leeching of chlorophyll. New plant growth comes disfigured.

Now after taking a look at the top 5 most common pests, lets take a look at the ways in which you can prevent any such infestation entirely.

1. Good Sanitation

Maintaining a clean garden is the best way to keep your garden both disease and pest free. Clean u fallen leaves and plant parts, clean leaves with a wet rag regularly to keep dust and bug larvae away.

2. Hand-Pick the Big Bugs

If you see any big bugs in your garden that is visible with naked eye, pick it up and throw it out of the garden before they lay eggs and multiply.

3. Get rid of sick plants

There are times when one or two plants will be completely sick and pest infested, it is better to either quarantine them or get rid of them entirely.

4. Use Natural Sprays

Use homemade all natural spray as the first line of defence. Soap water solution, ACV solution, and pepper solution spray are good options.

5. Maintain good ventilation

Space out your plants to maintain good ventilation in between plants. It allows for air to flow freely and also keeps the pest from spreading from one plant to another.

6. Keep Foliage Dry

When watering, it can be easy to get the foliage of your plants wet. Try to avoid it as an easy way to spread disease among your plants.

7. Augment your Soil

A good healthy soil means better plant growth and stronger immune system. Use a well-draining potting mix that helps you avoid root rot and aeration through the soil helps improve root health.

8. Weed out the troubles

Weeds not only add to the pest problem they also leech away essential nutrients from the soil. Remove the weeds before they take over the planter entirely and stop plant growth.

9. Take a Cold Shower

Dousing your plants in cold water makes the pests fall of due to temperature shock and helps get rid of the pests.

10. Soapy Water

Spraying your plant with soapy water takes away the waxy coating of the pests and makes them more susceptible to insecticidal solutions.

11. Till the soil

Tilling the soil before plating will make sure that all soil pests run away. Adding need bark also helps.

12. Water plants early in the morning.

Watering plants early in the morning means the foliage dries through the day and there is no excess moisture, it also means that plant has moisture available through the day for photosynthesis.

This is all you need to keep your plants happy.

Happy Gardening!

Can thrive with minimal care. ✔

Needs very little water ✔

Can live happily in not so bright corners ✔

Purifies air ✔

Has vividly coloured foliage ✔

Has many varieties ✔

Can be grown in water ✔

With over 20 varieties of Aglaonema that are grown as house plants, you will be spoilt for choice. They range in colour from beautiful fresh greens to variegated silvers and stunningly rich dark pinks. Aglaonemas are a perfect fit for your bedrooms, modern living rooms, balconies, and even offices where direct light is an issue. They not only add colour and interest with their stunning variegations but live happily with even the newest of gardeners.

The Chinese Evergreen is a simple plant to care for with simple needs and will live happily in most lighting and humidity conditions in a regular home. It has just one simple rule – the lighter the variegations, the more sunlight your aglaonema/Chinese evergreen will need. All varieties of the Chinese Evergreen have large, narrow, and glossy oval leaves on short stems. Although not famous for its flowers, they sometimes do have white peace lily like blooms from spring to summer.

Common name: Chinese evergreen

Botanical name: Aglaonema commutatum

Sunlight: Partial shade to Low light

Air: Well ventilated

Soil: Rich and well-draining

Water: When the top two inches of the soil is dry.

Fertilisers: Once every 3 weeks.

Issues: Rot due to overwatering. It does better with underwatering.

Sunlight

By nature, Aglaonemas show the best growth in well-lit locations such as an east or north facing windowsill. Bright, but indirect sunlight is optimal but it can live happily in low-light areas too, although the growth will slow down considerably. Make sure to not place your aglaonemas in full sun as it will lead to lea burn.

PS: As mentioned above, the lighter the variegations on your Aglaonema, brighter the light it will need.

Placement

The Aglaonema will do great in almost any corner of your home, from your shaded patios to your dimly lit bedrooms. If your aglaonema is smaller, place it on tabletops, shelves, or windowsills. The larger plants look good any in pedestal planters or floor planters. Their interestingly coloured foliage and ability to live in low-light areas make them a great fit for corners that have nothing much going on for them. Even if you are placing your Chinese evergreen in low light corners, sunning it weekly for a couple of hours gives them enough fuel to stay healthy and keep you happy.

Watering

Aglaonemas can live happily in both dry and moist conditions – but they hate being overwatered. The thick stems store water for emergency so make sure that while your aglaonema is watered regularly, you don’t overwater it, let the soil dry out in between watering. The plant does better with underwatering than overwatering, but don’t keep it dry for too long. Water your Aglaonema thoroughly till water comes out of the drainage hole and always empty the base plate. The watering requirement will change with the availability of light; more light means more water.

Fertilisers

Feed your Aglaonema with a generic houseplant fertiliser every three to four weeks, diluted as instructed on the packaging. Make sure the fertilisers have the three major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Ugaoo’s Plan-T-onic and NPK are great options for both root and foliar applications. Another great way to add nutrition to the soil is through monthly addition of vermicompost or any other organic compost.

Propagation

Chinese Evergreens can be propagated by stem cutting and by dividing the plants. The plant grows pups around the mother plant that can be successfully separated once they are of a good size. The best season to propagate this plant is during summer when the weather is the warmest – aglaonemas favourite weather.

Potting and Repotting Aglaonema

Aglaonemas are slow growers and love to be root bound so repotting will not be a regular job. While repotting make sure to use a rich but well-draining medium and not select a plant much bigger than the current one. It is a soft stemmed plant so loosen the soil carefully without damaging the plant.

Plant problems

While not really susceptible to pests or diseases, the Chinese evergreen can sometimes get infected with scale, mealybugs, or spider mites due to infected plants around it. All these issues can be treated with an insecticide or neem oil.

Typically, its most common issues arises due to too much moisture that leads to root rot and fungal problems.

Some other issues with eh Chinese evergreen is

Aging: Time causes yellowing of older leaves and its just the lifecycle. Just remove the affected leaf.

Too much light: Direct sunlight causes leaf burn. Prune the burned leaves and move it out of direct light.

Cold drafts: The plant prefers warm, draft-free areas.

Underwatering: A long dry spell will dry out the leaves. Water the plants regularly and keep it in a well-lit spot to help recover.

Overwatering: Aglaonemas prefer being underwatered than overwatered. Let the top two inches of the soil dry before watering to prevent root rot.

Happy Gardening!!

Why grow your own food?

Food is the true medicine. If we eat fresh, organically grown, non-GMO vegetables on a regular basis  our health improves and so does our body’s ability to fight infections and ailments. Commercially grown vegetables are pumped full of fertilisers, pesticides, and are sometimes grown with genetically modifies seeds that give a  higher crop yield. Furthermore, the nutrition value of fresh produce declines by 30% to 40 % in the first three days it takes for the vegetables to reach your plate from the time it is harvested. So, you are not only getting a plateful of chemical filled veggies but also lesser nutrition than what the produce should have given you.

Growing vegetables not only ensures the health of you and your loved ones, but it is also a boon for the environment.

1. It reduces the growing strain on the global food chain
2. It reduces the carbon footprint of the food you consume by eliminating the food miles (distance) your food had to travel to reach you.

It is easy to grow vegetables at home!

Growing vegetables is like growing any other plant, albeit with more investment on the returns. As compared to ornamental gardening they just need a little more sun, a little more manure and little more watering.

But it is as easy as 1 2 3!

5 easiest to grow vegetables for Indian homes

While there is a plethora of vegetables that can be grown at home ranging from the exotic red radish and broccoli to salad greens and herbs like the arugula, lettuce, thyme, sage and so many more, her we are going to discuss the five of the most commonly consumed veggies in Indian homes based on the eat amount of efforts required on the growers end and the least space they take up in your balconies, terraces, or window boxes by the virtue that they grow exceedingly well in pots.

We will talk in depth about growing

1. Tomatoes (all varieties)
2. Beans family
3. Chilli family
4. Gourds
5. Cucumbers

Things you need to start your own vegetable garden

Starting your vegetable garden doe not really require anything fancy and the myths around the expense are just that – myths. Here is a list of requirements to get you started on your vegetable gardening journey!

1. A well-ventilated spot that gets at least 5 hours of direct sunlight through the day. It can be in your balcony, your terrace, outside your home in your garden or even your window boxes.
2. Seedling trays or small planters, or small paper/plastic cups to germinate seeds indoors for a good produce.
3. Big planters, at least 12 to 15 inches in diameter and just as tall if not more. The material is truly immaterial, you can use grow bags, terracotta planters, plastic, or fibre planters or even jute ones. You can repurpose old buckets, drums or matkas for planting or any other containers the meet the size requirements. Just make sure to drill holes into the bottom for ample drainage.
4. A misting spray to spray neem oil, fertilisers, and water.
5. A rich, well-draining potting mix that supports healthy growth, organic compost, neem oil, and regular tap water.

You are all set, let’s start!

How to setup a vegetable garden

Let’s take a look at some few easy pointers to set up your vegetable garden of you are a beginner setting foot on this rewarding journey.

Seeds germination

The first step is to source good quality non-GMO seeds from a trusted source and Ugaoo is here for that. With over 150 years of experience in the seed industry, we assure you that you can trust us.

The second step is to germinate the seeds indoors. Start the seeds in a well-draining mix of red soil and compost. Or you can just reduce all the hassle by using Ugaoo’s Pot-o-Mix directly from the packet. Plant one seed per slot and keep the soil moist but not soggy. Start the process well in advance (2 weeks) before the actual planting.

Soil

For the final planter, use a good mix of high-quality red soil, organic compost ( vermicompost, organic kitchen compost), cocopeat, neem cake powder, gritty sand or perlite for drainage.

One of the safest proportions is an equal proportion or red soil, compost, and cocopeat, with 20 to 30% gritty soil or perlite and neem cake powder.

Transplanting

Transplant your saplings to the final planter when the sapling has at least 2-3 sets of true leaves. While transplanting make sure to not damage the root ball. Plant the sapling such that the potting mix covers the root ball but does not weigh down on the plant.

Watering

Water your garden regularly to maintain a uniformly moist potting mix, but not soggy. Take care to not wet the plants while watering to reduce chances of pest infestations. The water requirements will change with the season and plant size, so take care to keep an eye on you plants and never let the soil get too dry for too long.

Pest control

In our experience, preventive pest control is better, easier, and less strenuous than doing damage control. Just make sure to spray your plants, small or big. With neem oil solution once every 15 days to stop any pests from coming. In case you happen to see any pests still, take immediate steps to get rid of them either with neem oil solution application or a soap water solution with a misting spray also works. Just make sure not to spray it during peak sun to avoid lea scorching.

Fertilisation

Make sure to add a good dose of manure at the time of planting to set it up for a good initial growth. Once the plant is mid-way through the growth and you can see flowering, fertilise it every two weeks with organic fertilisers. You can use seaweed fertilisers, bio-enzyme solutions, or any other organic fertiliser easily accessible to you.

Tips for the 5 vegetables

Tomato

While tomatoes are essentially summer vegetables, you can grow them around the year with little effort. They love bright sunlight for most parts of the day and a well-draining soil. Stake the plants when they are your to give them support when it starts fruiting.

Keep an eye on pests and get rid of them at first notice.

Beans

One of the fastest and easiest to grow, they climb really well on trellises or wires just tied to the ceiling. They don’t need much care and grow well in 4-5 hours of sunlight and all year round.

Peppers/Chillies

They love sunlight, good fertilisers, and very little space. One plant gives a good yield and can be harvested multiple times. Give it 4-5 hours of sun, a well-draining potting mix, and good watering.

Gourds

Gourds are almost as easy to grow as beans and climbs freely and yields a high produce. They are seldom plagued by pests and do well with 4-5 hours of sun.

Cucumbers

Cucumbers are easy as well but might ned hand pollination in certain cases as the male and female flowers are separate. They can be grown easily through the year on trellises and supports.

Happy gardening!

Germination is as much an exact science as it is just fate. Sometimes we do everything right and by the book and it still doesn’t work out and the seeds don’t germinate and we have been getting a lot of queries about seed germination rates falling in the winters.

So here it is a detailed guide to help you in the process of germination, so that you have more hits than misses and more sprouts than duds.

Seed germination – what is it?

Every seed today is a plant of tomorrow. The beauty of a seed is that its neither dead nor alive and given the right care but given the right care it will turn into a plant. Seeds germination refers to the sprouting of the seed into a new plant. When the right environmental conditions of temperature, light, and moisture are provided, the seeds start their metabolic activities that first give rise to the shoot development and then the root development.

Let’s take a look at the process or steps of seed germination.

Select the seeds as per season. Summer seeds need a higher temperature to sprout, as compared to winter seeds.

Fill small seedling pots, paper cups, plastic cups or any such small planter with a well-draining potting mix. Make sure the planter has good drainage holes

1. Moisten the soil and let all the water drain out from the drainage hole at the bottom.
2. Sow the seeds at a depth of not more than twice or thrice the diameter of the seed itself. Don’t press the seed in too deep.
3. It is always better to start your seeds indoors where it is easier to control light and temperature of the soil. Seeds germinate the best between 20 to 30 degree Celsius. It is also important to remember that the moist soil temperature is always a few degrees lower than the ambient temperature.
4. For the first two day your can cover the seedling tray or your germination setup with a jute rag or a corrugated carboard to trap the moisture and heat and also provide darkness. Seeds germinate quicker in the dark.
5. After two days, when you can see tiny sprouts come up, remove the cover on top if you have used one and place the setup in a well-lit area indoors.
6. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, by watering it regularly with either a spray or bottom watering. Watering carefully with teaspoons also works fine, take care to not move the soil or drown the seedling.
7. Once the first two sets of cotyledon leaves (round leaves) come up. Place the seedling setup in a much brightly lit area like windowsill or shaded balconies where it doesn’t get direct harsh sun.
8. Once the first 2 pairs of true leaves appear and the sapling is now more than a couple of inches tall, you can transplant it to your final planter with a good potting mix.

Factors that play an important role in Seed Germination

Temperature

Temperature is extremely important for successful seed germination. For example, summer seeds such as sunflowers germinate at comparatively low temperatures, while winter seeds need a comparatively higher temperature. The success of seed germination is the highest between 20 to 30 degrees Celsius.

Moisture

Moisture is the key factor In any germination process, it is what signals the seed to start germinating in the first place. The seeds absorb water and that is when the dormant metabolic activity starts, thus signalling the seeds to start growing.

So, keep your soil uniformly moist at all times. Use a misting spray, teaspoon, or bottom watering method to water the setup so as to avoid damaging the baby shoots or displacing the soil.

Air

Just like plant roots, any germinating seeds also require air to successfully develop a root and shoot system. After the seed absorbs water, the seeds require oxygen to turn the stored food source into energy for the embryos to sprout.

Hence it is important for the soil to stay moist but not soggy and for the potting mix to be loose and well-draining so air can flow through easily.

Soil

The soil for any germination process can neither be too clayey nor too loose. The main requirements are rich in nutrients, well-draining, and good anchorage. The soil has to be loose and light enough for air to move freely and for the seedling to push through the soil surface and come out.

Specialized seedling mix is a good choice, but an unnecessary one. An equal mix of vermicompost or any other good quality compost, garden soil, coco peat and 10% perlite works well. I personally just germinate my seeds in a mix of 60% cow manure and any indoor potting mix.

Depth of Sowing

While some seeds like to be sown deep, there are some that need to be sown at the surface, while some need light to germinate and need to be simply sprinkled on top of the moist soil. Another factor that plays an important role in the depth of sowing is how heavy or compacted the soil is, with clayey soil it becomes difficult for small seeds to break through the surface on germination.

The general rule of thumb is to not sow the seeds at a depth more than twice to thrice the diameter of the seeds. Always cover the seeds wit a lose sprinkling of soil and not compact it by hand.

Pro tips for successful seeds germination

1. Store your seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry, and dark place.
2. To further improve the chances of germinating and reduce the time span of the cycle, soak your seeds in water overnight before planting.
3. Germinate your seeds in a moist potting mix. Moist but not soggy.
4. Don’t let the soil stay dry for two long keep wetting the topsoil in a controlled manner.

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Prepping your gardens for winter is also not only about seeing your plants through the cold months but also about how easy and fruitful you want your spring gardening to be. A few well-planned steps and your garden ill thank you for it in the long run and you will thank your foresight.

Let’s get down to discussing the steps for your winter garden prep. Let’s first understand what your plants go through in winters and what changes can you expect to see.

1. As the temperatures dip, so does the hormonal activity in your plants and they go dormant; thereby arresting their growth for the largest part. So don’t get worried if your plan does not sprout any new leaf in these winter months or does not grow significantly in size.
2. Some sun and summer loving plants like the Ficus microcarpa might shed a few leaves due to the dip in temperatures. But worry not, if the shedding is purely seasonal, then the leaves will come back when the sun makes a reappearance and the temperature climbs up.
3. If you want you home garden to be colourful even in winter months then the best way is to incorporate winter flowering plants like Pansies, Hollyhocks, Asters, and many more.
4. Save your tropical foliage plants from the harsh dry and cold winds of winter with a humidifier or by simply placing a vessel of water in the middle of your plant huddle.
5. Winter also means pest season. If you see unexpected spider nets, white cottony growth under leaves and small flying insects hovering around your plants, then its time to be alert and take measures. So keep checking your plants every time you water them.

Since the plants undergo so many changes, there are also some steps that need to be taken to prep your garden.

1. Do not shock your plants in winters. No repotting or changing of soil.
2. Prune your summer plants at the start of winter to make space for new growth when spring comes.
3. Add your organic matter before winter and mulch the topsoil if your area experiences harsh winters to protect the roots. If you can’t find mulch to protect the soil, using sphagnum moss is also a great idea.
4. Huddle your plants together to create a microclimate of warmth and humidity. Keep the smaller and more delicate plants in the centre and the sturdier and more established plants along the periphery.
5. Move your plants away from direct drafts from ACs and room heaters. Also, keep them away from doors and windows that open frequently and let in gusts of cold wind through the day to reduce the ambient temperature of the plants.
6. Spray your plants with neem oil every two weeks as a preventive measure. It’s easier to keep the pests at bay than getting rid of them.
7. Reduce your watering frequency. Make sure to check the topsoil before watering your plants. As the light intensity reduces and the plants enter a dormant phase, so does their requirement of water. Also, loss of water through surface evaporation is also low, further lowering the water requirements.

Now finally let’s take a look at what steps you can take to winterise your gardens.

1. Clean up all yellowing and diseased leaves. Winter is also big season and fallen diseased leaves can be a breeding ground for them.
2. Remove all the weeds that might have grown over the growing season to prevent leaching of nutrients by the weeds.
3. Amend your soil for your spring planting. Add in your manures, compost, bone meal, and so on. It give the soil to assimilate all the nutrients and be ready when its time for spring planting.
4. If you have flower bulbs in your garden, it’s the right time to dig and divide the bulbs before winter sets in. This will provide overcrowding and helps them flower beautifully in season.
5. Winter is also a good time to start germinating your vegetable seeds in indoor locations. Germinating seeds outdoors can be an issue die to dipping temperatures, so start them indoors where its warmer.

These steps are easy but essential to get your garden ready for this season. The cold months of winter always lead to the bountiful season of spring and its essential to prep for it well in time.

Happy Gardening!

If you have ever seen a sansevieria, it must have instantly caught your attention with its uncomplicated leaf design. Tall, lance like, erect leaves of green rising perpendicular from the ground up. The leaves sometimes have variegations or come in different shades depending on the species of sansevieria in question. It is one of the best air-purifying plants you can have at home (NASA certified). The best choice for new gardeners and those who are looking for more architectural aesthetic in their green spaces.

Let’s take a look at the care tips and learn how to make the Snake Plant become the centrepiece in your home.

Common name: Snake plant, Mother-in-law’s tongue, Viper’s bowstring hemp, St. George’s sword

Botanical name: Dracaena trifasciata (formerly Sansevieria trifasciata)

Sunlight: Partial sun to Low light

Air: Well ventilated

Soil: Sandy and well-draining

Water: When the soil dries out completely.

Fertilisers: Once every month. No fertilisers in winter

Issues: Rot due to overwatering. It does better with underwatering.

Sunlight for snake plant

For the Snake plant, direct sunlight is not required and extended exposure might burn the leaves. It can live happily in anything from partial sunlight on windowsills to low light corners of your bedrooms. Brighter light ensures faster growth on this generally slow growing houseplant and if your sansevieria is variegated, then the bands shine brighter with light. Brighter light also ensures healthier plants. While the plants can live happily in the lowest of lights, itleads to slower growth, smaller leaves, and much slower growth

Placement of Snake Plant

The Snake Plant will do great in almost any corner of your home, from your shaded patios to your dark aisles. If your sansevieria is smaller, place it on tabletops, shelves, or windowsills. The larger plants look good anywhere large enough to keep them. Their erect compact growth make them a great fit for tight corners that have nothing going on for them. Even if you are placing your snake plant in really low light corners, sunning it weekly for a couple of hours gives them enough fuel to stay healthy and keep you happy.

Watering for Snake Plant

Snake plants are drought resistant plants that have rhizomatous roots. The thick leaves store water for long spells of dryness. This plant does better with underwatering than overwatering. Water your snake plant only when the entire potting mix is dry. The watering reduces significantly in winter (to almost once a month) as it’s the dormant period for the plant. The frequency of watering depends on the amount of light it gets, plants in brighter light need more frequent watering and vice versa.

When watering an extremely dried out soil (visible cracks and soil leaving the planter walls) water in batches. Watering all at once allows the water to simply pass through the soil without getting absorbed, so water in batches and let the soil soak it all up.

Every time a plant I watered, water it thoroughly till you see some draining out of the drainage hole and always empty the under plate.

Fertilisers for Snake Plant

Feed your Sansevieria with a generic houseplant fertiliser every three to four weeks, diluted as instructed on the packaging. Make sure the fertilisers have the three major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Ugaoo’s Plan-T-onic and NPK are great options for both root and foliar applications. Another great way to add nutrition to the soil is through monthly addition of vermicompost or any other organic compost.

Propagation of Snake Plant

Sansevieria plants can be propagated through separation of pups and leaf cuttings.

Once smaller plants sprout around the main mother plant, wait for them to reach a respectable size, and develop their own root system. Unpot the plant and divide the root rhizome to separate the mother plant from the pups and pot them both separately.

For propagating through leaf cuttings, use a sharp shear to take at least a 4 inch tall cutting from a leaf and place it in water with the right side up in a well-lit place. Ensure that the cutting Is placed in the same direction it was growing. Change the water when it gets cloudy. You will see roots and new leaves sprouting in a few weeks.

Potting and Repotting Snake Plant

When potting, choose a strong pot as the snake plant roots are famous for cracking through fragile materials. Snake plants is a slow grower and rarely needs repotting, but they might grow rapidly with the appropriate light conditions and need repotting or dividing. The best time to repot these plants is in the spring. When repotting, always use fresh potting soil, a cactus potting mix, or a mixture of both.

Plant problems for Snake Plant

Scales, gnats, spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, and whiteflies are common snake plant pests. You can avoid an insect invasion if you keep your plant healthy. If you notice insects on your plant, remove the insects by picking them off, by using a gentle spray of water, or with an organic neem oil to keep the insects at bay.

Foul smelling and constantly wet soil is a clear indication of root rot. Unpot your soil and wash the roots to check for rot. Cut away any black/brown and soft roots and retain the white healthy parts. Repot in a fresh well-draining potting mix and water rarely.

Curling leaves are a sign of thrip infestation. These tiny black bugs are easy to deal with. Cut away severely curled leaves and spray the plant with neem oil or vegetable soap to keep the pests at bay. New leaves will eventually grow.

Yellowing leaves that are falling over are due to overwatering or poor light. Water scarcely and only when he potting mix is entirely dry. If your plant in a very low-light area then either move it to a brighter spot or put it in the sun for few hours every week.

Happy Gardening!!!

The plant grows in the shape of wands arching out of the soil, with shiny leaves arranged along the length. The leaves start out lighter green in colour and then progress to a darker more emerald green,  earning it the name Zanzibar Gem. The ZZ is an excellent plant of choice for people with a brown thumb or are just starting out, it’s the easiest plant you could ever have and it is also an excellent air purifier.

Let’s take a look at the care tips and learn how to make the ZZ become the centrepiece in your home.

Common name: ZZ plant, Zanzibar Gem

Botanical name: Zamioculcas zamiifolia

Sunlight: Medium to Low light

Air: Well ventilated

Soil: Rich and well-draining

Water: When the soil dries out completely.

Fertilisers: Once every month

Issues: Rot due to overwatering. It does better with underwatering.

Sunlight for ZZ plant

For the ZZ, direct sunlight is great but not essential. The ZZ can survive happily in anything from bright sunlight windowsills to low light corners or your bedrooms. Brighter light ensures faster growth, sturdier stems, well-spaced leaves and in general a healthier plants. While the plants can live happily in the lowest of lights, it leads to slower growth, spaced out leaves and thinner stems, but still just as good.

Placement of ZZ plant

The ZZ will do great in almost any corner of your home, from your sunny porches to your dark aisles. If your ZZ is smaller, place it on tabletops, shelves, or windowsills. The larger plants look good anywhere large enough to keep them. Their erect compact growth make them a great fit for tight corners that have nothing going on for them. Even if you are placing your ZZ in really low light corners, sunning it weekly for a couple of hours gives them enough fuel to stay healthy and keep you happy.

Watering for ZZ plant

ZZ has tuberous bulbous roots, resembling a potato, that stores moisture to see it through the dry days. This root structure ensures that your ZZ can stay without water for long spells and does better with underwatering than overwatering. Water your ZZ when the entire potting mix is dry. Don’t let the soil stay dry for too long, as the plant will use up all the moisture stored in the roots. The frequency of watering depends on the amount of light it gets, plants in brighter light need more frequent watering and vice versa.

When watering an extremely dried out soil (visible cracks and soil leaving the planter walls) water in batches. Watering all at once allows the water to simply pass through the soil without getting absorbed, so water in batches and let the soil soak it all up.

Every time a plant I watered, water it thoroughly till you see some draining out of the drainage hole and always empty the under plate.

Fertilisers for ZZ plant

Feed your ZZ with a generic houseplant fertiliser every three to four weeks, diluted as instructed on the packaging. Make sure the fertilisers have the three major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Ugaoo’s Plan-T-onic and NPK are great options for both root and foliar applications. Another great way to add nutrition to the soil is through monthly addition of vermicompost or any other organic compost.

Propagation of ZZ plant

ZZ plants can be propagated through division of the root rhizome of a mature plant, stem cuttings, and also leaf cuttings.

Take a clean sharp knife and cut through the bulbous root of a mature ZZ plant. Let the divided plants air dry for a day and then repot it in a fresh, well-draining potting mix. Similarly, take a stem cutting with a sharp clean knife or pluck a leaf from the stem (preserving the leaf stalk) and propagate the cutting in water for a few weeks till a bulbous root system develops and then transplant it into a potting mix.

Plant problems of ZZ plant

Spaced out leaves, or etiolation, is a sign of low light or a long time. Give it a few hours of direct sun every week of two for a healthy growth.

Thin spindly stems are a sign of unhealthy plant growth, give it more might and fertilise it regularly.

Yellowing leaves with wrinkled stems is a sign of underwatering or low light exposure or both. Remedy the situation for better growth.

Yellowing leaves with black mushy stems are a sign of root rot due to overwatering. Unpot the plant and wash the roots to check for rot. If there are any blackening root, cut it off and preserve the white roots. Let the root system dry out in a ventilated space for a day, away from direct light.

There is not much that this plant requires in terms of care and can take a good amount of trimming. If your Areca is a tabletop size, under proper care it can grow almost 6 to 10 inches every year till it is approximately 6 feet tall in an indoor environment and live a healthy life span of over 10 years.

Let’s take a look at its care tips and learn how to make your Areca Palms dense and healthy.

Common name: Areca Palm, Golden Cane Palm, Yellow Palm, or Butterfly Palm

Botanical name: Dypsis lutescens

Sunlight: Partial to bright indirect sunlight

Air: Well ventilated

Soil: Well-draining soil with rich organic matter. A mix of equal parts red soil, cocopeat, compost works best.

Water: When the top two inches of the soil is dry.

Fertilisers: Once every two to three weeks

Issues: Rot due to overwatering and leaf scales are an issue.

Sunlight

The areca palm is native to Madagascar, so its all sun and warmth and rain in its original growing habitat. It loves bright light, while it will burn in direct afternoon sun, especially in Indian summers, it will appreciate a few hours of sunlight in the morning or evening. If the area where you want to keep our areca is getting too much sun and the leaves are burning, consider lowering the impact of the sun with a curtain or a screen.

Placement

Areca palm is one of those plants that well do equally good both outdoors and indoors.

Outdoors: East, West, or North facing porch, balconies, and terraces are good areas to grow your Areca. The South facing areas that receive peak afternoon sun tend to burn the foliage, so the idea is to keep them out of the sun between 12 to 4. This can be done by using sunscreens or sheltering them behind taller plants.

Indoors: Indoors the Areca palm would need extremely bright light, the brightest possible. They would really love and appreciate a few hours of direct sun every day. When placing them indoors, make sure the area is well ventilated.

Watering

Water your Areca palm judiciously. Check the topsoil before watering with a  finger dig test and water only when the top two inches if the soil is dry. While overwatering is a sure shot killer, under watering and irregular watering also causes drying of leaves.

Irregular watering is letting the soil dry our for too long and then water it too much, this causes brown leaf tips.

When watering an extremely dried out soil (visible cracks and soil leaving the planter walls) water in batches. Watering all at once allows the water to simply pass through the soil without getting absorbed.

Every time a plant I watered, water it thoroughly till you see some draining out of the drainage hole and always empty the under plate.

Fertilisers

Feed your areca palm with a generic houseplant fertiliser every two weeks, diluted as instructed on the packaging. Make sure the fertilisers have the three major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Ugaoo’ plan-t-onic and NPK are great options for both root and foliar applications.

Plant problems

Brown tips are and indication of irregular watering. Get the watering under a schedule, where the plant does not experience prolonged dry and wet periods.

Blackening stems are a sign of overwatering. Unpot your plants and wash to root system to check for decaying root. If the roots are white and healthy, repot in a fresh well-draining potting mix.

Brown bump on leaves means a scale problem and a pray with a good fungicide or wiping the leaves with a soap solution should help.

Twisted misshapen leaves are a sign of low light, shift your plant to a brighter light area.

White cottony deposits are mealy bugs, that need to be physically cleaned with a soap solution before being sprayed with a neem oil solution. This whole process needs to be repeated till the problem goes away.

Pink stems are a sign or rot due to overwatering. Check for root rot and water judiciously.

Yellowing leaves in areca palm can be a sign of nitrogen deficiency or low light. While brown spots are a sign of potassium deficiency.

If you wish to grow succulents at home, the most important thing we need to understand is that they are very different from you regular indoor or outdoor plants. A vast majority of houseplant, almost 90%, are tropical plants and grow in jungles where the growing conditions are rich and moist. On the other hand, all succulents are desert plants that grow with little to no water through the year other than in the rainy season and loose sandy soil devoid of any organic matter.

To grow succulents successfully it is important to replicate their growing conditions with light, soil, and watering and that directly translates to leaving them alone for most part.

How to take care of Succulents in Indian Climate

Succulents are a favourite with all age group today for their ease of growing, their compact growing pattern, and carefree nature.  Their popularity will keep growing for the next decade or so. With people gravitating towards green gifting options, succulents are a top choice because it can be gifted to almost anyone, irrespective of them being a gardener or not.

Succulents adapt to even harsh conditions. There are a few things that you should keep in mind while taking care of your succulents.

The best container for your succulents

Succulents don’t need very big pots. The most important factor when selecting planter/container for your succulents is drainage. Succulent planters need to have a sufficiently large drainage hole for quick draining after watering. Another factor that plays an important role in this is the potting mix that we will talk about later.

You should always water them sidewise on the roots and not directly from the top to avoid calcium stains of their foliage or branches. Do not over or under water the plants because that can cease plant growth.

The best potting medium for your succulent

Unlike other houseplants, succulents need a soil-less potting mixture customised for them. While the market is full of succulent potting mixes, you can make your own at home very easily. One of the biggest pressure points for succulents is the potting mix, the other being watering.

The potting mix needs to be well aerated and to let the roots breathe and avoid rot. A loose mix also enables the weak root system to flourish and make their way easily through the planter, as a healthy root system translates to healthier shoot growth. A well-draining loose mix also ensures that it doesn’t hold excess moisture.

A good succulent potting mix should contain equal part building material and drainage material. Perlite, coarse sand, wood chips, neem cake powder, compost, and cocopeat are great components. Mix them in equal parts and your good to go, or you can avoid all the hassle and buy a succulent potting mix off the shelf.

The correct way to water your succulent

Succulents don’t require to be watered regularly and they do better on the drier side and are extremely drought resistant. They need to be watered only when the potting mix is completely dry and then some.

If the soil has even a tiny bit of moisture, it doesn’t require any water. Succulents rest in the afternoon and that is when they absorb and utilize the water. It is important to water the succulents from the side and take care not to wet the leaves to avoid leaf burn. Water your succulent till it starts coming out of the drainage hole and let it drain completely.

The right light for your succulent

One of the major concerns of plant parents is plants not surviving after they get it home from the nursery. Most of the plants in nurseries are maintained under the green house. Once you get the plants home do not put them in the sun directly, ease them into it. Introduce them to partial sun and then full sun gradually.

Although most of the succulents are good with the sun but they can’t tolerate the scorching sun of Indian summer afternoons. They do great with 3-4 hours of sunlight when they are outside and brightest indirect light indoor. Ideal places indoors for them would be near south-facing windows or balcony or in east or west facing balconies or windowsills where they get morning or late afternoon sun. Inadequate light will make the plant leggy. Good light ensures better growth and stunning colours.

Ventilation for your succulent

Succulents require good ventilation to dry out the soil, especially in the winter season where it requires breathing. Non-ventilated containers and placements can suffocate the plants and cause them to rot due to build-up of moisture.

Ensure that air flows freely around succulents and don’t group them up with other tropical houseplants as they increase the moisture content in the air around them.

The right growing temperature for your succulent

Succulents are hardy plants that thrive at an optimum temperature range between 15-45 degrees. They do go dormant in the winter season and require even lesser watering to survive.

The correct fertilizers for your succulent

Succulents require diluted fertilizers in their growing season of spring and summer. Feeding it with any generic plant fertiliser once a month does the trick. One teaspoon of bone meal every month or a bi-monthly dose of 19:19:19 N:P:K foliar spray.

Winter care for your succulents

• Succulents can’t survive in freezing temperatures, so don’t leave them out.
• Damp soil in the winters can result in root rot. That’s why watering further reduces in the winter months.
• If the soil is not drying out easily in winters due to the moisture, add a layer of sand on top of the soil.
• If you do not want to move the plant here and there, choose a location at the temperature level of 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.

The best succulents suited for Indian homes

1. Agave

Agave is a hardy evergreen succulent with a large rosette of narrow stiffly erect leaves with moderately spaced spines. They are slow-growing plants that thrive on a bit of neglect!

2. Furcraea

Furcraea is a hardy stemless evergreen succulent, very well suited to Indian climate, hot arid to tropical. Grown for their variegated foliage, they form a fountain of upright, sword-shaped leaves, resembling undulating ribbons.

3. Yucca

Yuccas are slow growing and drought tolerant hardy plants. Eventually, they typically lose their lower leaves giving the plant a pleasant tree-like appearance.

4. Senecio

Senecio is a fast-growing succulent with vines and once established, they are extremely drought tolerant, with small, white, cinnamon-scented flowers. They are extremely good-looking in hanging planters.

5. Haworthia

This succulent famous for a rosette of plump, stiff, upright leaves, Haworthias are a joy to grow and they come in many sizes and patterns and are extremely easy to grow.

6. Echeveria

One of the most widely planted succulents, Echeveria is well-loved for its rose-like form with fleshy leaves in a rainbow of colours. Echeveria is an evergreen and produces summer flowers.

7. Sedum

Sedum is famous for its dense, soft foliage that get heavy as it matures. It looks great trailing out of erect planters with beautifully soft blue-green leaves. They love bright shade or partial sun and grow equally well indoors too.

8. Adenium

Adeniums are beautiful choice to add a splash of colour to the garden with flowers that bloom for several weeks in shades of pink during the spring and summer months.

9. Hens and Chick – Sempervivum tectorum

This succulent grows in a cluster of the rosette. The main plant is known as the hen, and the offspring around it are called chicks. The offspring sprout their roots, becoming an independent plant.

10. Jade Plant

Also known as a lucky plant, the fleshy, glossy, and oval leaves growing on the burgundy stems along with seasonal white to pink flowers.

11. Snake Plant- Dracaena trifasciata

Its tapered leaves, along with the cream-yellow border across the edges makes it stand out from all the succulents. This plant can stay without water for weeks and doesn’t ask for much attention.

12. Hoya carnosa

Also known as valentine plant or sweetheart wax plant, Hoya plant consists of large-sized, thick, fleshy, and heart-shaped leaves. It produces a cluster of pink-hued and red-eyed, waxy flowers.

FAQs

1. Where can you grow succulents?

Succulents thrive in warm and dry climates. In India, it will thrive where it is hot throughout the year, both as indoor and outdoor plants.

2. What’s the Correct Pot Size?

Succulents have shallow roots and they do well in smaller pots. While picking the container make sure that the pot has a drainage hole and is only 1 size bigger than the previous pot.

3. How to Water Succulents?

Water the succulent only when the potting mix is completely dry and wait for a couple of days post that too. Water it from the side, taking care not to wet the foliage. Let the water drain completely from the drainage hole before placing it back.

4. What is the best light for succulents?

Succulents grow best under direct sunlight. However, overexposure to sunlight can harm them. In India, many states receive harsh sunlight, especially during the summer afternoons.

So before you go about remedying nutrient issues in your plants, do check for pests under leaves, in between stems and other nooks and crannies. Changes in the colour of leaves can also be caused by soil that drains poorly, compacted root growth, soil that is too loose and does not retain moisture, irregular watering schedule with long spells of dryness in between waterings, too small a pot, and many such reasons. Extreme changes in temperature also affects plant growth and health.

Nevertheless, too much fertiliser can cause the plant root and shoot system to burn and too little can affect plant health and growth rate.

What Nutrients Do Plants Need?

Gardeners generally tend to discount the need for fertilisation of potted plants, comparing them to the plants growing in the wild and not needing any additional fertilisation. Plants growing in the wild grow directly in the soil, which is a part of the larger ecological system. The roots of such plants have direct access to decaying organic and inorganic matter, essential minerals through breaking rocks and rainwater stored underground and other organic matters such as insect and animal discharge. All these sources provide the plant with more than enough nutrients that ensure excellent growth that cannot be achieved in the isolated soil system of a potted plant, wherein the nutrients get depleted over time.

Plants require a few different kinds of nutrients to stay healthy and grow at a good rate. Nutrients that the plants need in larger quantities are called macronutrients, namely nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, also known as NPK,  calcium, sulphur, and magnesium. Other nutrients required in comparatively lesser quantities, called micronutrients, include boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc.

How Do Plants Get Nutrients?

The major, and sometimes only source, of all these nutrients for plants, is the soil. The plants take up nutrients through the roots along with water. The transportation of these nutrients through various plant parts also happens due to water pressure and movement. Hence, along with a good supply of essential nutrients, the right amount of water is also very important.

One other major requirement for nutrient uptake is the right pH balance of the soil or the potting mix. Each plant prefers a specific pH range to be able to access the nutrients in the soil, soil that is too acidic and too alkaline disrupts normal functioning for the plants and affects plant health adversely.

Let’s take a look at the common nutrient deficiencies.

Common Nutrient Deficiencies

Nitrogen (N)

Nitrogen is a macronutrient required the most by plants. Plants absorb Nitrogen in the form of either ammonium or nitrate which is water soluble. This water soluble nature of nitrogen also means that it runs off with water every time the plant is watered and it comes out of the drainage hole. Nitrogen is essential for rapid growth especially for fruit and seed development. It is also essential for bigger leaf size and healthier foliage.

Deficiency symptoms: Chlorosis (leeching of chlorophyll) of the entire plant to a lighter green colour followed by yellowing of older leaves that then progresses to the younger leaves. Plants show poor growth with thin stems that don’t support plant weight and etiolation is also a visible sign.

Phosphorus (P)

Phosphorus is the second major macronutrient that the plant needs for a healthier rate of photosynthesis, protein formation, help with seed germination, bloom stimulation, and budding. Plants absorb Phosphorus in the form of phosphate.

Deficiency symptoms: Purple or bronze colouration on the underside of older leaves due to the accumulation of the pigment, Anthocyanin. Plants that are deficient in phosphorus grow slowly and have stunted growth.

Potassium (K)

Potassium is the third major macronutrient that is essential for making plant food and the formation of sugars for protein synthesis and cell division in plant and root development. It also increases the plant’s resistance to diseases. Plants absorb Potassium as an ion, which is water-soluble and can be easily leached and lost due to run-off from the soil.

Deficiency symptoms: Chlorosis along the leaf edge of new and matured leaves. This then progresses to interveinal scorching and eventually necrosis from the leaf edge to midrib. The chlorosis due to potassium deficiency is irreversible, nevertheless, the new growth will be completely healthy.

Magnesium (Mg)

Magnesium is a building block of the chlorophyll molecule and it is a key element to promote the function of plant enzymes to produce carbohydrates, sugars, and fats and also regulate plant metabolism and rate of nutrient absorption.

Deficiency symptoms: One major symptom is interveinal chlorosis in older and more mature leaves. If the deficiency progresses it leads to a decline in plant growth rate, reduction in leaf size and shedding of older leaves over time.

Calcium (Ca)

Calcium is a building block of the plant cell wall to provide structural support. It is an immobile component and stays in the older tissue throughout the growing season. The first deficiency symptom appears in younger leaves and growing leaf and root tips.

Deficiency symptoms: Any new plant growth, shoot or root has stunted growth. The younger leaves curl on themselves with browning of leaf edges and leaf tips with leaf tip burn. In some plants, calcium deficiency also manifests as extremely green foliage and the roots become short and stubby.

Manganese (Mn)

Manganese is an enzyme activator for nitrogen absorption and assimilation and is also required for photosynthesis, respiration, and enzyme reactions.

Deficiency symptoms: New leaves show interveinal chlorosis and necrotic leaf tissue. The new leaves also become smaller with growing deficiency and leaf tips can die.

Iron (Fe)

Iron deficiency manifests similar to that of Magnesium, except that it shows on young leaves and shoots instead of older leaves.

Deficiency symptoms: Light green to yellow interveinal chlorosis on new leaves and young shoots, which then progresses to shoot dieback. If the deficiency is not treated, the new growth shows reduced size with complete leeching of chlorophyll and necrotic leaf tissue.

Zinc (Zn)

Deficiency symptoms: Chlorosis, bronzing, or mottling of younger leaves, along with interveinal chlorosis in new leaves that progresses to reduced shoot growth.

Remedying nutrient deficiency can take time and the application of fertilisers at regular intervals is important to bring back the plant to prime health. Keep in mind to not over-fertilize the plants and give supplements at regular intervals. Once the plants are back to health, augment the soil by adding fresh organic matter every year. There are plenty kitchen hacks to help you maintain a healthy garden.

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Derived from the Greek word ‘philo’ meaning love and ‘dendron’ meaning tree, the philodendron is one of the easiest to grow plants for indoor spaces. An evergreen perennial vine, native to tropical America, this family has plants from beautiful vining varieties to upright tree like plants. In the right conditions, philodendron varieties are vigorous growers and can grow by several feet in a single year. The plants of the Philodendron family is particularly great for indoor settings due to its ability to filter gaseous toxins from the air.

For years, it has been the most common plant in indoor gardens across the globe. They live year round without any major hassles and tell you exactly what they need, making them an excellent choice for inexperienced gardeners. They are generally forgiving and will tolerate all kinds of neglect including low light, poor soil, and inconsistent watering.

With their typically large, green, and glossy leaves, it adds a bit of native tropical flair to any home. There are two types of philodendrons: vining and non-climbing plants. The vining variety grows several feet, while the non-climbing variety has an upright growth habit and are excellent foliage plants for containers.

Plant care

When caring for an indoor philodendron plant, the idea is to mimic its natural tropical environment. Provide it with warmth and moisture near a sunny east or west facing windows. They also extremely well in north-facing windows and balconies. During warm weather, put philodendron houseplants outside in a shady spot to get some fresh air and natural light on occasion. However, direct sunlight can burn the delicate foliage of the plant.

Light

The plants of the philodendron family are one of the best choice for indoor spaces due to their hardy nature and the range of conditions in which it can live happily. The philodendrons love bright indirect to medium light and can also live in low light conditions for a while. Keep your philodendrons out of direct sun to avoid leaf burn. However, the variegated varieties need comparatively more light to retain the variegations.

Water

Water your philodendron only when the top two inches of the potting mix is dry to touch. The frequency of watering depends entirely on the amount of light the plant gets. More light translates to better rate of photosynthesis thus increasing the quantity of water required. To check for the right time to water the plant, dig your finger 2 inches into the soil. If the soil feels dry and your finger comes out clean, then it is time to water your plants. If the soil feels moist and the finger comes out with soil sticking to it, then its not time to water it yet.

Misting it once in a while is also a good idea.

Soil and fertilisation

The philodendrons love a rich but well-draining medium for good growth. While the vining varieties are not finicky about the growing media, the ones with tree-like growth pattern need comparatively more root support for balance.

Fertilise your plant every three weeks in its growing season from spring to fall for a good growth. Supplementing the potting media with good quality compost is also an added advantage, using water soluble plant fertiliser like NPK every few weeks both for root application and misting helps achieve healthier and bigger foliage.

Placement

Place your plants in areas that get bright to medium indirect light. If your plant does not get sufficient light through the day, placing it in sun for a couple of hours every other week will allow the plant to grow well. The trailing varieties look especially stunning when placed at a height and allowed to trail down. The upright varieties are excellent for tabletop and floor placement.

Propagation

The vining plants can be easily propagated via stems cuttings, take cuttings that have at least 2-3 leaf nodes and propagate it either via water or directly in the soil. Remove the lowermost leaves to expose the nodes and ensure that the nodes are either submerged in water or in soil. Philodendron plants root easily and are quick growing with proper care.

For the tree like varieties, propagation can be done by dividing the mature plant along with the root system. For potting use a well-draining but rich potting media.

FAQs

1. Why are the leaves of my philodendron turning yellow?

Yellowing leaves are generally a sign of overwatering. If random leaves are yellowing, try adjusting the watering schedule.

2. Why is my plant limp and wilting?

Limp and wilting plants is a clear case of under watered plant. Water pressure is essential to keep the plant upright.

3. Why are the leaves of my philodendron plant curling?

Leaf curling of philodendron plants is caused due to either dehydration or extremely hard water that causes salt build-up. Practice bottom watering to ensure that the entirety of the soil is soaked and also mist. If the cause is hard water, then use filtered water or let tap water stand overnight before watering.

4. What are the different types of philodendron varieties?

The different type of Philodendron varieties are Philodendron Birkin, Philodendron Brasil, Philodendron Heartleaf, Philodendron Hope Selloum, Philodendron Pink Princess, Philodendron Xanadu, and so on.

Don’t get bogged down by the fact that you do not have the time and space for gardening. Growing microgreen is nothing like traditional gardening and is so much easier, it could be a house chore you give to your kids. They are not only superfoods that are gaining popularity in homes across the globe but also becoming a USP of high-end restaurants. They fit right into the list of super-nutritious, organic, pesticide free, and farm to fork food experiences.

What Are Microgreens?

Microgreens are essentially the first true leaves (cotyledon leaves) produced from seedlings of vegetables and herbs. The tiny leaves  are harvested when they are approximately a couple of inches tall, which takes around 12 to 14 days from sowing. They are packed with nutrition and intense flavours just like their mature counterparts. To elaborate, a radish microgreen will give you the nutty flavour of radish, while a beetroot microgreen will give you the earthy sweet flavour that the beetroot is famous for.

Microgreens are revered due to higher levels of vitamins and carotenoids – about five times on an average – than their mature counterparts. This nutrient dense quality helps lower the risk of cancer, Alzheimer’s, boost heart health, and so much more.

Microgreens are ideal for you if you are struggling with time and space for your garden but want to start eating healthy. Some of the reasons for growing your own batch of this superfood are:

1. Easy to Grow:

Microgreens are incredibly easy to grow due since they are harvested at the first true leaf stage and can be grown effortlessly on a sunny windowsill.

2. Quick to harvest:

Microgreens get ready to eat in just two weeks.

3. Packed with flavours:

Though microgreens are tiny, the concentration of flavours makes them a favourite of chefs and food lovers around the world.

4. Loaded with nutrients:

According to a study done by University of Maryland, microgreens have a higher concentration of nutrients than mature vegetables and herbs with some microgreen varieties having up to 40 times more nutrition than grown vegetables.

How to grow your own microgreens at home

To grow microgreens at home you would need the following things.

Microgreen Seeds

For growing a particular Microgreen, it is advisable to take Microgreen seeds specifically, instead of mature vegetable seeds. Microgreens cannot be grown from regular seeds; you should use microgreen seeds only. You can order varieties of Microgreens seeds online from Ugaoo.

Potting Soil

Ugaoo potting mix works the best, but you may use any soil from your garden too, just make sure that the soil is clean and loos and well-draining. Using just red oil might be too heavy for delicate microgreens. Using washed cocopeat is also a good idea and yields excellent results.  The soil should not contain any chemical or pesticide quantities, in order to grow Microgreens organic and healthy.

Pot/Tray

Using a container that is wider than deep gives you a lot of surface area to plant and harvest from. You can buy microgreen trays from Ugaoo online. Adhering to the principles of upcycling, using takeaway containers works excellent for growing microgreens in batches, just make sure that you make some holes at the bottom for drainage.

Light Source

Microgreens require a moderate amount of indirect sunlight for at least 3-4 hours a day. A north or east facing windowsill, kitchen counter tops, or any other flat surface that gets indirect light works well.

PS: I place my microgreen tray on top of my fridge, gets morning light till 10 AM and does not get disturbed by daily activities.

Water

Water is necessary element for growing microgreens The growing medium should be kept moist at all times. Using a mister works best, but I prefer to practice bottom up watering approach to avoid wetting the greens. In bottom up watering, whenever the soil seems to be too dry for my liking, I place the microgreen container in a tray pf water so that the soil can soak up the water through the drainage hole (osmosis) and then remove the tray, let the excess water drain and then keep it back in place.

Here are the easy step-by-step instructions you can follow to grow your very own batch of fresh, flavoursome, and healthy microgreens.

1. The first step is filling the tray/container with soil. Since the roots of Microgreens do not reach that deep, 4-5 inches of container depth and 3-4 inches of soil height is good enough.
2. Take care to not fill the soil till the brim of the container. Wet the oil thoroughly and let the excess water drain out for s awhile till it stops dripping out of the drainage hole.
3. After the soil is ready, Sprinkle the microgreen seeds on the surface, ensuring a single uniform layer.
4. Now cover the seeds with fine sprinkling of the same potting mix. Ensure that the cover on top is not thicker than the diameter of the seeds.
5. Now place the container in an area that get indirect light and is out of direct drafts from the AC, heater, cooler or fan.
6. Don’t let the setup dry out ever. It is the most crucial step for growing microgreens successfully. Keep watering it with a mister, a teaspoon or practice bottom up watering technique.
7. After a week, your container will be full of tiny green growth. They will be ready to harvest when they are a couple of inches tall.
8. To harvest microgreens, just take a pain of kitchen scissors and snip them right above the soil. Consume them soon after harvest for maximum benefits.
9. Turn over the soil and remove the left over root debris using a fork and its ready to use again for the next batch of microgreens.
10. Do not let you microgreen grow for too long (more than 17-20 days) as they start wilting after a while.

Microgreens go very well in smoothies, salads, as a garnish on your pastas and soups, in sandwiches or rolls or anything else for that matter. The possibilities are endless.

Easiest to grow microgreens at home

Microgreens can be grown almost everywhere without much effort and are fast taking over the healthy kitchens around the globe. Let’s look at how some of the easiest varieties of microgreens to grow that can be transformational in improving your health for the better.

1) Rocket Microgreen

Packed with antioxidants, Vitamins A, C, K, Calcium, Folate, Iron, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Beta Carotene, and cancer-fighting phytochemicals. Arugula or rocket microgreens have a peppery taste and can germinate in room temperature and grow faster in cooler weather.

2) Radish Microgreen

One of the fastest growing microgreens available, Radish is a great variety to pick for beginners. A good source of vitamin B, C, Zinc, Magnesium and Phosphorus and antioxidants. The peppery radish zest in tiny green leaves can be sown throughout the year and grow well at room temperature.

3) Broccoli Microgreen

The anti-inflammatory properties of broccoli microgreens will help reduce toxins in the body. Broccoli microgreens are packed with vitamin A, C, E, K, protein, and calcium including significant amounts of iron, magnesium, and phosphorus.

4) Beetroot Microgreen

The bright red and purple of the colours of beetroot microgreens are enough to create eye-catching ensemble on your plates. Beetroot microgreens are charged with Zinc, Iron, Calcium, Potassium, Magnesium, and vitamins A, B, C & K.

5) Parsley Microgreen

The parsley microgreens are packed with Iron, Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Fibre and Vitamins A, C & K. Parsley microgreens are good for improving liver health and have been known to discourage the growth of certain types of cancers.

6) Garden Cress Microgreen

Garden cress microgreens are a great way to add the much needed spicy and fresh flavours to your sandwiches and salads. These microgreens contain all the essential amino acids, Vitamins A, B, C & E, Potassium, Phosphorus, Calcium, Magnesium, Iron, Niacin, and antioxidants.

7) Spinach Microgreen

Spinach microgreens are a wonderful source of Iron, Potassium, Calcium, Vitamins A & C. Spinach microgreen are good in keeping the blood pressure in check, preventing cancer and reduce chances of diabetes.

8) Sunflower Microgreen

Sunflower microgreens are full of essential nutrients including vitamin A, B, C, Calcium, Iron, Manganese, Phosphorus, Potassium, Sulphur, and Zinc. Sunflower microgreens also pack the cancer-fighting compounds and antioxidants about 5 to 10 times than the mature plants.

9) Alfalfa Microgreen

Alfalfa microgreens are very mild and crunchy in flavour and can be added to salads or sandwiches to slightly nutty flavour. Alfalfa microgreens are rich in Vitamin A, B1, B6, C, E, and K, Potassium, Iron, Calcium and Zinc. These microgreens can play an important role in preventing breast cancer, reduce the chances of diabetes and improve bone health.

They say that if your garden doesn’t haves pest, it is not a part of an ecosystem, yet. Be it ants, bugs, snail, bees, butterflies or any other bug, their presence means that your garden is not just for show. In the case of apartment gardening, all or some of these crawlies are not welcome and spraying pesticides, herbal or otherwise, is not a good idea. This is where your kitchen comes to the rescue.

Using home remedies means that its available round the clock and easy to prepare, it’s also very good for the environment and a cost-effective practice. The main idea behind using kitchen remedies is to use available resources to keep the pests & disease in check without harming the beneficial insects.

The following are some great home remedies for pest control

Oil spray

Annoying sap-sucking insects like aphids, thrips, spider mites, and whiteflies first damage your plant and eventually kill it. To combat these pesky pests, make your own homemade oil spray using 1 tablespoon of dish soap and 1 cup of unused cooking oil. Shake well and store it in a cool and dark place in a dark bottle. When using, dilute it with water in the ratio of 8 teaspoons or 35-40 ml in one litre of water. Mist your plants with this solution to coat the insects in an oil solution that stops them from breathing freely and controlling their spread.

Soap spray insecticide

Very similar to the oil spray is a soap spray, which is highly effective in controlling mites, aphids, whiteflies, beetles, and other pests. To make the soap spray, mix 1 1/2 teaspoons of a mild liquid soap with one litre of water, and spray the infected plants generously. Use as required but spray it before or after peak un, spraying in full sun is not beneficial.

Eucalyptus oil

A great pesticide that drives away pests insect with its strong smell and antimicrobial properties. Simply spray some diluted oil on the infested plants. The dilution depends on the potency of the oil, generally a few ml in a litre of water works well.

Onion and garlic spray

Take about one to two cloves of garlic and one medium sized onion and mince or grind them together. Add some water and let it saturate for one hour and then add one teaspoon of red chilli and one tablespoon of liquid soap to the mix. Strain it and spray it on your plants to keep the pests away. This mix can be stored in the fridge for up to a week but it better used fresh.

Chrysanthemum flower tea

The chrysanthemum flowers are not only pretty to look at, but they also have a strong plant chemical component called pyrethrum that is an excellent insecticide. Pyrethrum affects the nervous system of the pests and paralyzes flying insects on contact rendering them immobile.

To make chrysanthemum flower tea spray take a 100 grams of dried chrysanthemum flowers and simmer it in 1 litre of water for twenty minutes. Cool the mix and strain and pour into a spray bottle for use. Spray it on the infested plants as and when required, it can be stored for up to two months in a cool dark place. You can also add a few drops of neem oil to improve the effectiveness.

Tomato leaf spray

Tomato plants are part of the nightshade family, and contain alkaloids named “tomatine,” which are effective against aphids and other pests. To make tomato leaf spray, chop, or grind 2 cups of fresh tomato leaves and mix it into 1000 ml of water and let steep overnight. Strain out the plant material and spray on the infested plants. It is extremely effective when made fresh and used weekly.

Garlic oil spray

One of the safest and easiest to use insect repellent. Mince 5-6 clove of garlic and let it steep overnight in 3 teaspoons of oil overnight. Strain the oil to remove the garlic pieces and dilute it with 500 ml of water and further add a teaspoon of dish wash liquid and shake well. Store in a bottle or jar, dilute it further before using by adding 30-40 ml of this mix in half a litre of water and spray it on your plants.  This spray works for whiteflies, aphids, and most beetles. Avoid application on sunny days to avoid foliage burn.

Diatomaceous earth

Made of sedimentary rocks that are essentially fossilised algae (diatoms), it is one of the most readily available natural insecticides. Amongst its many other use, one is that of a natural insecticide, it works by absorbing the protective waxy coating secreted by insects for protection and then dehydrates them to death. To apply, simply dust the topsoil with it or sprinkle it on the foliage, where it will help control snails and slugs and other crawling insects.

Coffee grounds

Coffee ground are fatal for ants and other such insects. Caffeine & diterpenes compounds in coffee are highly toxic to insects & helps control bugs, mosquitoes, fruit flies & beetles. Sprinkle used coffee grounds on the topsoil or in areas where you can see ants emerging from and watch them disappear.

Banana peels

To get rid of aphids in your garden, place chopped up banana peel under the topsoil around the stems of your plants. This prevents the pesky insects and also adds nutrients to the soil. Insects hate light and hence they hide under the leaves.

Foil

As a trick, to chase aphids from the underside of leaves, place aluminium foil (polished side up) around the base of your plant covering the topsoil. The sunlight will reflect off of the foil and onto the underside of the leaves, thus driving the critters away.

Eggshells

Not only great for the compost heap, but eggshells also act as fertilizer and pest repellent when added to the bottom of planters before planting. Before sowing vegetable seeds, crush a couple of eggshells, not too finely, and add them to the bottom of the hole. The sharp edges will deter cutworms, and crushed shells around the stem of plants will deter slugs and snails.

Wood ash

Wood ash has multiple uses and not only is it is a free fertilizer, but it’s also an excellent way to get rid of snails & slugs. A ring of wood ash around infested or vulnerable plants helps control them. Crawling on the ash makes slugs and snails lose fluid and slime, so they find it difficult to creep along, hence deterring their movement.

Epsom salt pesticide

Epsom salts can be either be sprinkled around plants or dissolved in water to make a spray. To make a spray, dissolve 30-40 grams of salt in 1 litre of water and spray it on infested plants. It can also be sprinkled on the topsoil, it will deter pests and add magnesium to the soil, which increases the absorption of nutrients by the plants. It is especially effective against slugs and beetles.

Baking soda spray for powdery mildew

Baking soda on plants causes no apparent harm and help prevent fungal growth. A tried and tested method for preventing powdery mildew on fruits & vegetables. It needs to be applied weekly. To use,  combine one tablespoon of baking soda, one tablespoon of vegetable oil, one tablespoon of dish soap in 1 litre of water and spray it on the foliage of susceptible plants. Baking soda prevents fungal spore from blooming, while the oil and soap help the mix stick to the plant.

Jade plant – some common knowledge

Growing Jade plant is easy and simple and many people enjoy growing jade plants in homes and workspaces and they are also said to bring good luck. With their gnarly woody stems and plump oval-shaped leaves, jade plants have a miniature, tree like appearance that makes them very appealing as a house plant. Their long life make them ideal for bonsai, but they are also otherwise passed down from generation to generation. With just a bit of care, it can grow to be between 3 and 6 feet tall, but it does so slowly, growing about 2 inches a year.

Native to South Africa, jade plants were once thought to bring good luck to their owners, so are often given as housewarming gifts. Because they’re typically only grown indoors, they can be brought home or started at any time, either from a professional nursery or through propagation.

The most important factors to consider when growing jade houseplants is water, light, temperature, and fertilizer.

Jade plants adapt well to the warm, dry conditions found in most homes. It’s important to keep the plant watered during the growing season (spring, summer) and drier during the dormant season (fall, winter). However, even during the growing season, the soil should be allowed to dry out fully between watering, as jade is very susceptible to rot.

Light

Another important aspect of the care and maintenance of jade plants is how much sun they receive. They need full sun in order to grow properly. If they do not have full sun, they may become stunted and leggy.

Jade plants need at least 4 hours of direct sunlight each day. Young plants should be kept in bright, indirect sunlight; large, well-established jade plants can handle more direct sunlight.

Water

One of the most important things and key factors that determine the success of your jade plant is watering. Make sure that they the plants are watered properly and never let it dry out completely but don’t keep the soil soggy wet. The idea is to let the potting mix dry in between watering cycles. Watering your jade plant too often can cause root rot. If your jade plant is losing leaves or has leaf spots, this is most commonly caused by too little water.

Jade plants require more water in spring and summer when it is actively growing. Water it thoroughly till water comes out of the drainage holes, then wait until the soil has dried out before watering it again. This simply translates to the fact that; the watering can be twice a week or twice a month depending on how quickly the soil dries out.

Jade plant goes dormant in fall and winter season and stops growing for a few months and would need very little water. Water it carefully and allow the soil to dry out fully between watering. Large, well-established jade plants need to be watered further lesser.

Avoid wetting the foliage while watering ass the plant loves to be dry and a very humid environmnet can lead to rot.

Soil & Fertilisation

Pot your Jade plants in a loose well-draining potting mix. Also ensure that the potting mix has a good amount of organic matter. When choosing a readymade soil mix to house your jade plant, a succulent-specific blend is the best bet. Ideally, the soil should be either neutral to slightly acidic and drain well in order to prevent excessive moisture from accumulating and leading to fungal growth. If you choose to use an all-purpose potting mix used for generic house plants, add some perlite, wood chips to help assist with drainage and rich an ideal pH. Furthermore, it is better to use terracotta or clay pots for better drainage as they also lose water through their walls. Use a pot that I also wide to increase surface area at the top.

Jade plants should be fed sparingly. Use a diluted mix of a standard liquid houseplant fertilizer or a fertilizer made for cacti and succulents.

Placement

Jade plants love light, and young plants especially should be exposed to bright, indirect sunlight in order to thrive. Jade plants young and old should receive at least four to six hours of sunlight daily but keep the plant safe from direct rays. Harsh light can scorch young, immature plants or cause the leaves of older ones to turn red.

During the winter months, move the plants away from cold windows and keep them out of areas that get direct draft.

Propagation

Choose a wide and sturdy pot with a moderate depth, as jade plants have a tendency to grow top-heavy and fall over.

Take at least a 4-5 inch cutting and remove the lowermost leaves and pot it in a well-draining potting mix, making sure to submerge at least 2-3 leaf nodes under the soil. Use a smaller pot to control the availability of moisture and place the planter and plant in a brightly lit pot, out of direct sun.

After planting a jade plant, don’t water it right away. Waiting anywhere from several days to a week before watering lets the roots settle and recover from any damage.

Problems and care

A majority of the problem for Jade plants arise due to either over or under watering.

Shrivelled or wrinkled leaves are signs of a thirsty plant in need of more frequent or deeper watering.

Waterlogged and squishy leaves indicated that the plant is getting too much water.

Leaf drop is a symptom of watering issues, too. However it can also be due to very little light.

As far as pest are concerned, mealybugs or scale hide under stems and leaves. To remove the pests, wipe them off gently with a bit of rubbing alcohol on a paper towel or cotton swab. Repeated applications will be necessary to remove the pests egg and larvae. If the plant is too heavily infested, it may be better to take a clean cutting from it and start anew.

Common Problems With Jade Plants

While jade plants are fairly easy to care for and not terribly temperamental, you may find yourself running into a few issues that leave you wondering why your plant isn’t thriving the way it should. Some of the most common issues with jade plants include:

Shrivelled Leaves

Because jade plants store water in their leaves, wrinkly or shrivelled leaves are a good indication that your plant isn’t getting enough water. They may be accompanied by drooping or a general “wilt” of the whole plant but should perk up quickly once watered.

Loss of Leaves

If your jade plant is losing leaves at a frequent rate, it may be a sign that it’s not getting enough light. Move the plant somewhere where it gets bright, indirect light for at least six hours a day and observe whether the problem improves. If most of the leaves falling are old leaves, or the dropping is accompanied by leggy growth, your plant may be too warm and need to be located somewhere with a slightly cooler (but not cold) temperature.

All-Over Yellowing

One or two yellow leaves on your jade plant isn’t the end of the world but if you notice your plant is yellowing all over, that is a sign of a more serious issue. Generally, an all-over yellowing of a jade plant is indicative of overwatering. Check for other tell-tale signs (like rotting roots) and cut back on the frequency with which you water.

FAQ

Are jade plants easy to care for?

Generally, jade plants are easy to care for. However, some plant owners have a hard time figuring out the right watering schedule at first.

How fast does a jade plant grow?

Jade plants grow slowly, adding about 2 inches of height a year. However, in the right circumstances, they can grow to be between 3 and 6 feet tall.

Can jade plants grow indoors?

Yes—in most parts of the country, jade plants are only cared for as an indoor houseplant.

Although, its native to tropical jungles Monstera can grow very well indoors and with the right light and care the leaves can grow up to two feet in size. Monsteras are unique, easy-going houseplants that love to trail over the pot or climb along a stake or trellis. These are hardy plants that can live easily in warm climates but can be tough to take care of if you live in a colder climate but not impossible, making it the perfect plant for beginners.

Light

The Monstera can grow literally anywhere in your home, it can survive in low light but grows faster in bright indirect light. Although it doesn’t require direct sunlight, it will love the mild morning sun for an hour or two. Better light translated to bigger leaves with deeper fenestrations. Avoid direct sunlight during late mornings or later, strong light might cause leaf burn in the Monstera. In its natural habitat, it grows on the forest floor or along larger trees.

Soil

The Monstera grows on the forest floor that has a good layer of mulch and organic layer making it rich but extremely well-draining. So give your Monstera plant a rich but light and well-draining potting mix. Supplement it with a good broken down compost every month in its growing period.

Water

The Monstera loves a good moist soil, but its best to let the soil dry out in between watering cycles. Water it thoroughly and let the water drain out, empty the base plate ASAP, and let the top two inches of the soil dry out before watering again. Your Monstera will love you extra if you give it filtered water or water that has been left to stand overnight.

Fertilisation

To get a good growth, feed your Monstera with a good quality generic fertiliser in its growing period of spring to fall. Fertilise it every two weeks with both root and foliar application for better growth.  Regular fertilisation will result in excellent root and shoot growth. Don’t fertilise your plant in the winters when it is dormant.

It is also very important that the potting mix has an equal proportion of a garden soil, cocopeat, and well rotten compost (vermicompost) for a continuous supply of nutrients to the plants aver its growing period in the same pot.

Cleaning your Monstera

Even though Monstera’s produce edible fruit in their natural habitat – the reason behind the name ‘deliciosa’. The fruiting does not happen very often and almost never in home setting and potted Monstera’s. Monstera, the houseplant, is all about its beautiful fenestrated leaves and keeping them clean is important not only for their beauty but plant health too. The large surface area of leaves means more dust settling on them and blocking the stomate, thus affecting the rate pf photosynthesis and consequently plant health and growth.

Clean your Monstera regularly with a soft moist cloth, just plain water will do. On some occasions, once in a month or two months depending on how dusty it is in your area, wipe down your Monstera leaves with a mild soap solution.

Tip: Wear an old sock on your palm for an easier cleaning routine.

FAQs

1. How can I tell if my Monstera is over or under watered?

Most often yellowing of leaves is due to overwatering or underwatering. If there is a combination of yellow and brown spots on the same leaf, the most evident cause is overwatering. If there are fully yellow leaves and some brown crispy spots occur then it could be underwatering. Check the soil to determine if it is truly the cause.

2. Why is my Monstera not forming splits or holes on its leaves (fenestrations)?

Also known as “fenestrations,” the lack of splits and holes in the leaf of a Monstera can be caused due to many reasons, but generally it means the plant isn’t getting the right growing conditions. Give the plant better light and follow a good watering schedule. You can also push your plant’s aerial roots into the soil so the plant can absorb more nutrients. Sometimes it takes time for the plant to develop fenestrations so just wait.

3. How often does my plant need to be repotted?

Larger floor plants can be repotted every 18-24 months in a pot that is 2”- 4” larger in diameter. Don’t choose a pot much larger than the previous as this could drown the plants roots. If you want to control the size of the plant, repot in the same pot in fresh soil and also trim away some of the roots.

4. How to propagate your Monstera?

Propagating a Monstera is easier than most plants and there are several ways of doing this. The first way is to prune your Monstera and cut off a larger part of the stem. This way you give your Monstera enough moisture and nutrients to start growing roots on its own. Another way is to wait until the Monstera starts to grow air roots. You can now cut off the stem below the air roots and place it in water to help new roots grow. Once the roots are big enough you can plant it in soil.

Additional care tips for your Monstera

1. If planting outdoors, give it a shaded area.
2. The plant is mildly toxic to both humans and animals, so keep it out of reach of children and pets.
3. The Monstera is generally not susceptible to pests, but if you see any carry out immediate pest control measures.
4. Rotate your Monstera periodically to ensure even growth on all sides and dust the leaves often so the plant can photosynthesize efficiently.
5. Dust the large leaves regularly for a good growth
6. To encourage your Monstera to climb upwards, you can stake wild offshoots with a dowel or use a moss pole.
7. Monstera needs lots of space: Put it in a statement-making spot in the living room, rather than in a tight corner or on a windowsill.

Happy gardening!

Light

The calatheas are true tropical plants and love filtered light through the day. Place it in you north- or east-facing balconies or on the windowsills in the same direction for bright indirect light through the day. If your window or balcony is south- or west-facing then keep them a few feet away from the light source (out of direct light) to prevent the leaf from scorching. The darker the leaf the lesser the light it needs.

Water

The calatheas are very particular about moisture – both for their leaves and their roots. Maintain a moist soil, the wetness of a wrung out sponge, but take care to not have soggy soil. It is also a good idea to let the top inch of the soil to dry out before rewatering the plant. The calathea doesn’t appreciate having wet feet and will convey their displeasure with rapidly yellowing bottom leaves.

Maintain at least 50% or higher humidity to maintain the stunning foliage by either creating microclimate in plant clusters, using a humidifier, misting them from bottom up (take care to not fill water in the ravelled straw that new leaves make) or placing a container of water next to your calathea to increase humidity through surface evaporation.

Some calatheas are finicky about the quality of water they get. Let your tap water sit overnight to evaporate dissolved chlorine or use filtered water.

Soil

Soil is the make or break for your calatheas. They need a rich soil that is also extremely well-draining. Use a mix of equal quantities of garden soil, cocopeat, perlite and compost. To avoid the hassle of mixing soil you can just go ahead and use Ugaoo’s Pot-o-mix.

Ensure that the soil is lose enough for the roots to get enough air, retain the right amount of water, while also giving it structural support and enough nutrition for a healthy growth.

Placement

Calatheas are purely indoor plants but can be kept outdoors in north facing balconies if it doesn’t get direct sun. Place it in areas that receive medium to bright indirect light, more practically speaking the plant should have a direct view of a direct source of light. Nevertheless, avoid direct sunlight at all costs.

Care

Fertilise your calathea every 20 days with a generic and well-balanced plant fertiliser or use compost to feed your plant. Asses the soil that your calathea came in from the nursery, whether the soil is loamy or well-draining and for initial few days, asses how frequently the topsoil dries out for watering.

If the soil dries out too much, the leaves will start browning, yellowing, or curling. There is nothing to fear though, the plants have a tendency to bounce back once their requirements are met. Too much water can also result in root rot, so consistency and moderation are important.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. Why are my Calathea’s leaves drooping?

Wilting or drooping leaves is a result of underwatering, in other words the plant being thirsty. Nevertheless, don’t confuse this with the natural movement of its leaves to mimic the movement of light. Always check for the moisture level in your soil before watering.

2. Why are the edges of my Calathea’s leaves are turning yellow and brown?

The prime cause for this is inconsistent watering schedule. For Calathea, and almost any tropical plant, yellowing and browning can be signs of both over and underwatering. Keep checking the soil to find the right watering schedule of your plant. Do the finger test to check if the topsoil is dry or not and proceed for a through watering only when it is.

3. Why is my Calathea losing the colour and variegations in its leaves?

The leeching of colour from you leaf, is most likely due to too much sunlight. Calatheas love bright to medium light, but indirect light or else the leaf lose all colour.

4. How often should I fertilize my plant?

Houseplants love nutrition, they will thrive when they are fertilized in the growing season from till right before winter. Use either a generic well-balanced organic houseplant fertilizer, or an organic compost.

Indoor plant trends for 2021 are full of different kinds of plants. These plants can be the perfect extension to your existing collection with their unique characteristics. Based on Google data and search trends, the indoor plant experts have arrived at the plant trends that are going to rule the gardening world in 2021.

People who found a new connection to plants in the pandemic and those who reconnected with gardening at a deeper level in the pandemic are now looking for ways to add to their plant collection. This new want to expand the plant collection can be either due to expanding their collection or just adding more members to their plant family.

Let’s take a look at what the plant gurus are predicting for 2021:

The plant or gardening trend can be divided into two segments : quirky plants and gardening trends.

Let’s first take a look at the plants waiting to rule the indoor garden stage:

1. FISHBONE CACTUS : With its unique shape of long flat stems with curly edges that resemble a fishbone, this plant is at the top of quirk-o-meter. It is also famous as zig-zag or ricrac orchid cactus. This plant baby is an excellent choice for those looking to pick up gardening this year, it needs very little maintenance. The fishbone cactus likes a little more water than your regular cactus, so don’t let the soil dry out for long.
2. SANSEVIERIAS: Sansevierias are wonderfully easy indoor plants. They will live happily in very bright light to almost dark corners of your home. It is an excellent indoor plant with low light and watering needs and low maintenance nature. With their compact growth pattern and futuristic look given its long spade like leaves, they look stunning both on the floor as well as on tabletop displays. It is an excellent plant for beginners and seasoned houseplant owners.
3. ALOCASIA PLANT: Alocasias are beautiful houseplants, ranging from small leaved ones to humongous ones that resemble elephant ears. They are a must-have for every indoor plant enthusiast. This stunner has specific needs that have to be met to keep it healthy.
4. CALATHEA: The calatheas have ruled the gardening world for very long but 2020 saw their return to the centre stage and they are all set to rule it into 2021. The calatheas are one of the most stunning plants with their dark foliage and variegations that can rival any painters Like all tropical plants, they also love indirect light, warmth, and humidity.
5. CHINESE MONEY PLANT: With its round coin shaped leaves, it is very apparent why the plant is named such. Emerging as a global favourite on the indoor plant scene, this fits very well in almost all décor themes. A happy trooper that requires very little care and does best in bight indirect light. What’s the best part is that it sprouts babies like crazy, so one plant can be many in no time.
6. MISTLETOE CACTUS: The statement maker of the year, the mistletoe cactus is a lush succulent with stems that hang down like shaggy hair. This easy to care for plant lives happily all year round. If cared for properly, the succulent/cactus might also reward you with mistletoe-like berries.
7. STRING OF HEARTS: Our personal favourite for this year, this trailing plant is easy to care and grow for with its patterned leaves. Place it in hanging baskets or put it on shelves and watch it trail down and spread its magic.
8. LADY PALM (RHAPIS PALM): The predicted queen of large floor plants for this year. The Lady Palm, true to its name, is all set to rule the large indoor plant stage in 2021. They create visual interest and are so very easy to care for with bright indirect light.

Plant Décor trends

Gardening is not only about growing plants, its so much more than that. It’s the need of the hour, every plant counts and they make a difference to the overall world ecosystem. They not only help the world but also help us on personal level – physically and mentally.

• Plants as therapy

As the pandemic is raging on and people are staying home, they have turns to plants for reassurance. Plants make people happy and there are scientific studies that support this claim. Biophilia is our innate affinity to plants and they bring us the kind of peace and calm that cannot be replicated. Their predictable nature can be our calm in the storm and they are accessible to all people.

• Gothic Tales

People are gravitating towards darker plants this year, be it the black ZZ or the dark foliage stunner of the calathea family. They have a striking appearance with lighter coloured growth that matures to a rich purple-black hue. If gothic is not your thing, plants like money plant satin are merging as a crowd favourite with their neve seen before foliage.

• Pretty in Pink

Pink is going to rule the world, especially the plant world. They might behave like queens with their very specific needs, but its worth the beauty they add to your space. Be it the Aglaonema pink or Stromanthes, they are a must have in your homes this season.

• Miniatures

Miniature plants are slowly becoming a global favourite. They are finding space on worktables and in terrarium. With living space shrinking and practicality governing the décor space, the need for smaller green are going to be prime. Make terrariums or place them on shelves in quirky planters and witch them grow.

• Online workshops

The pandemic has seen the rise of both gardening and gardening workshops. People are reconnecting with nature, both in terms of ornamental and food gardening and with this growing need for reconnecting with nature has come the need to learn. Workshops are set to rule this year too. Learn your gardening from the experts.

• Propagation station

Plant propagation is going to be big this year as people who took up gardening last year are going to graduate to the next level. Pruning and propagating their plant babies to either grow their indoor jungle or sharing the cuttings with friends and family is going to be a top trend.

• Zoom staging

Zoom meetings have become essential for staying in touch – both with family and at work. Earlier offices used to be filled with plants to give it a biophilic design. Now there is a need to stage zoom calls with stunning plants in the background. Because our homes have become our offices, Ugaoo has introduce a range of plants specifically for your work desk and home office.

So what are you waiting for, get gardening and jump on the bandwagon.

Happy gardening!

Ferns purify the air, retaining ancestral genes from when the earth’s atmosphere was more unfavourable than it is today.  Although ferns get a bad reputation for being finicky, their evolutionary journey suggests that they are survivors, so long as their basic needs are met. Ferns are generally hassle-free and grow faster than any other tropical plant if they receive enough light. Ferns can completely regrow from the crown. The fast regeneration coupled with their air-purifying properties makes them one of our favourite plants.

History

Before ferns, there were only mosses, lichens, algae, and fungi and then around 360MYA, the landmasses of the earth collided, forming the supercontinent Pangaea. Ferns spread throughout Pangaea, covering it almost entirely and is the reason why ferns exist and have existed on all land masses. This spread led to the explosion in fern diversity at the beginning of the Carboniferous Period, rightly dubbed “The Age of Ferns”.

A large part of the planet at that time was warm and tropical and with ferns overtaking the entire landscape and other plants also thriving, the atmosphere changed and the oxygen in the air increased ~15% to ~35%.  This caused a subsequent fall in the Carbon dioxide level, which was fixed by these plants and absorbed into the soil. This is when a majority of our fossil fuels were formed. That’s right, coal and oil come from dead plants –  dead ferns and not dinosaurs.

Types

Given their long ancestry, ferns have thousands of varieties. Their size varies from 2 to 3 mm to 10 to 25 metres tall. Ferns are essentially tropical plants and lovers of humidity and warmth, with little care a variety of them can be grown in indoor gardens. Some common but stunning fern varieties for your home are:

1. Boston fern (Nephrolepsis exaltata) the most common house fern with vigorous growing pattern and arching fronds that can grow up to three feet long.
2. Staghorn fern (Platycerium bifurcatum) has large leaves that resemble deer antlers.
3. Rabbit’s foot fern (Davallia fejeensis) has furry rhizomes that grow at the base of the plant.
4. Holly Fern (Cyrtomium falcatum) has thick segmented fronds and is very hardy.
5. Maidenhair fern (Adiantum tenerum; Adiantum capillusveneris) has cascading leaflets and grows well in low-lighting.
6. Bird’s nest fern (Asplenium nidus ‘Avis’) has wide, flat uncut fronds and can grow up to four feet long.
7. Cobra fern (Asplenium nidus ‘Crispy Wave’) a beautiful, trendy fern that looks sculpted, with shiny green, hard pleated leaves.
8. Cotton candy fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) has cuddly feathers that grow about 15 to 20 cm long, but have a remarkably fine, lace-like appearance.
9. Asparagus fern (Asparagus aethiopicus) has feathery fronds and can grow up to four feet long and three feet wide.

Care

Ferns are the oldest plant on the planet, they have been here before the dinosaurs and survived centuries of environmental catastrophes that have wiped out species. The winning quality that stands out in this is there survival spirit, they are survivors. This should give you the confidence to get one home and have the confidence that they will fill your home up with tropical greenery.

Ferns have few requirements and if they are met, your ferns will forever be happy. Its said that if maintained well, a fern can live for more than a century. Here are some of the care tips to grow ferns:

Pot in well-draining soil : Ferns are not finicky about the growing medium but keeping in mind the fact that they grow on forest floors on a layer of fallen leaves, tree bark, and decaying matter that does not hold any water. So, give the fern a loose well-draining growing media made of 1 part soil, 1 part coco peat, 1 part perlite/pumice, 1 part coarse gravel or tree bark.

Place in medium light : Since the ferns grow under canopies of trees, the best place for them is in an area with bright indirect light and no direct sunlight. Keep them out of direct light and a few feet away from south or west facing windows. Also, they prefer the same living temperatures that we do.

Keep the soil moist : While ferns don’t like constantly wet soil, never let the plant dry out. Ensure that the soil is moist at all times, like a wrung out sponge. Water thoroughly and avoid overwatering. Ferns also enjoy humidity, keep it out of hot drafts and mist frequently to avoid the browning of frond tips. IF you have a humidifier keep it nearby or place an open container with water to maintain a humid environment. Ferns make for great hanging plants in bathrooms with good light, owing to their high humidity environment.

Fertiliser: Fertilise your ferns from march to august with a generic plant fertiliser every 2-3 weeks. Take care to not over-fertilise and err on the side of caution to avoid fertiliser burn. Use the same fertiliser, diluted to its half strength, for misting every other week.

Problems : Fern is strong, but it can still run into some problems. There is nothing to worry though, they easily recover if the problems are tackled quickly. Stop fertilizing when your fern is in trouble, it will only stress out your already stressed out plant.

Brown leaves: too much direct sunlight or not watering enough. When the leaves getting crispy and brown are in the centre of your fern, it is usually because of overwatering.

Brown leaf tips: If only the tips of the leaves are brown, then it is usually because of very low humidity.

Dropping leaves: It’s normal for the fern to drop leaves occasionally. However, If more leaves are suddenly dropping, it usually indicates underwatering.

Yellow leaves: it is more often than not a case of overwatering. Nevertheless, it can also be from using hard cold water or the humidity is too low.

Tips:

1. Use a well-draining potting mix to avoid water logging and good root growth.
2. Maintain high humidity and keep the soil moist at all times, but not soggy.
3. Give it plenty of indirect light but no direct light. Early morning light works fine but not afternoon light.
4. Mist regularly or use a humidifier to maintain humidity. You can also use a open container of water next to the plant.
5. Cut away dead fronds to make space for new ones.

While I agree that gardening tools are an extra expense, especially for us frugal gardeners who would rather buy that elusive angel wing begonia than a trowel when spoons work fine, what we forget is that it’s a onetime buy and it is for all plants. Easier gardening with lesser efforts means more gardening with more plants. Do the math and buy that tool.

Here is a list of some of the basic but absolutely necessary gardening tools every home gardener should have.

1. Pruners/pruning shears/secateurs: One tool, many names but what a brilliant invention. It cuts through woody branches like a hot knife through butter. We all know how important pruning is to plant health and clean cuts are essential to reduce damage to your plants. Invest in a pair of good shears, keep them clean and dry and don’t cut paper with them and they will last you a lifetime. The Pyramid magnum anvil secateurs by Ugaoo is a good choice. 
2. Raking tools: Digging the topsoil to add a layer of compost every month, uprooting weeds, aerating soil, and breaking up tight garden soil to mix with coco peat and compost before repotting can be made easier with this one tool. Pretty undervalued and unassuming, it is versatile and a great addition to you gardening toolbox. Pyramid Cultivator with Wooden Handle.
3. Trowel/transplanter : The OG gardening tools that our grandparents has too. Well, what can be said, dig soil, mix it, break up bigger chunks, use it as a scoop and what not. If there is only one tool other than a pruner that you can have, it is this. Buy a heavy duty variety and you will not have to worry about buying another for a lifetime of gardening. Pyramid Trowel with Wooden Handle
4. Watering can: while bucket watering is traditional, it also results in overwatering and the more the water flows out of you drainage hole the more nutrients will leech out of your soil. So watering cans are a good addition. They allow us to control the flow of water, especially plants that don’t like wet foliage and it also helps reduce water wastage. There are so many stunning ones out there that they can very well be garden décor, some pop coloured ones can also be used as rustic vases. Sky Bird Watering Can
5. Spray pump: Whether it is misting your plants, cleaning the leaves of dust or bird shit, or spraying that very essential neem oil every fortnight to keep pests at bay, spray pumps are a saviour. They come with a rotatable nozzle to control water flow from a sharp jet to a fine mist. Get the ones with air pressure pumps to last you forever. The barber shop spray pumps will betray you in a few months, however cheap and cute they are (speaking from experience). So get yourself a good air pressure spray pump and make your plants happy. Hand Pressure Sprayer Pump

So stock up your tool kit and get gardening.

Happy gardening!!!

If you’re not into the architectural shapes of sansevierias, or if you’re tired of how common pothos are then prayer plants are the perfect low-light plant for you. This blog will mostly talk about calathea, but these tips should do well for any variety of prayer plant. Calatheas are true tropical plants that thrive and grow rather quickly, often reaching a mature size of one to two feet tall in a year if they are given the right growing conditions.

While many other varieties of plants are no salvageable once they lose all the leaves and die back, but not the prayer plants – they bounce back with proper light and water like a phoenix rising from the ashes.

Now let’s discuss the trifecta of calathea care (or any other plants care): Light, Water, and Soil.

Light

The calatheas grow on the forest floor of tropical rain forests and get dappled sunlight or low light courtesy of tall tropical trees. This factor alone makes the calatheas a great choice for north or east facing homes that have medium to low light.

TIP: The darker the calathea foliage, the lower is its light requirement.

Humidity

Prayer plants love, love, love humidity. They are a tropical plant to the T. They love more than 50% humidity and it is the best way to ensure healthy foliage with no browning tips. You can increase humidity levels with a humidifier that are also great for you and your family. You can also increase it by placing the calatheas over a tray filled with pebbles and water. The pebbles will keep the pot from being submerged in water, and the natural evaporation of the water will help keep the air around the plant moist. They also love being grouped together and misting them is a great idea but only form the bottom up, so as to avoid water getting into tightly curled new leaves.

Water

Calatheas love filtered and dechlorinated water, which is a little more demanding than your average indoor plant.  One of the easiest hacks is to fill your watering can and leave it overnight to dissipate the chlorine.

Potting Soil

Calathea enjoy moist but not soggy soil. One of the best potting mix proportions is a mix of 50% garden soil, 25% cocopeat, and 25% organic compost. Let the soil dry out slightly  in between watering cycles, stick you finger two inches in and if the medium is dry, water thoroughly till it runs out of the pot and drain away the excess water.

Planter material

While plastic, ceramic, and terracotta all work fine. The terracotta in general is good for any plants as the planter material helps in the evaporation of excess water and also lets the soil breathe. The only catch is ceramic and plastic planters might need less frequent watering than a ceramic planter.

Common problems:

Browning leaves/tips: Most likely, the cause is not enough humidity. If only the tips are brown, it may indicate that your water contains too many minerals or chemicals.

Fungus gnats: If you notice small insects that look like fruit flies around your plants, it’s possible that the high soil humidity made for an ideal home for fungus gnats. While they are harmless, they can be a nuisance. Try bottom watering your plant by submerging the pot in water and try to leave the first inch of soil dry.

Wilting, curling leaves, dry potting mix: The most common and obvious cause is underwatering. Keep the soil moist at all times, but not soggy.

Yellowing leaves and black base: The most common of all plant issues is overwatering. If the soil is too loamy and not well-draining the plant is at the risk of root rot due to water logging. Take care to not overwater your calathea, it is easier to save and underwatered plant than an overwatered one.

Some stunning but easiest to take care calatheas that will add a beautiful tropical touch to your home.

1. Calathea lancifolia ‘rattlesnake’
2. Calathea roseopicta ‘medallion’
3. Calathea ornata ‘beauty star’

Get yourself a calathea and become a proud plant parent.

Summers can be a tough time for plants too if they do not get proper care. Though some plants like succulents and cacti are well-adapted to the heat, summer flowers like sunflowers and pansies love the sun but do need the care. The plants that are kept indoors are not acclimatised to the extremes of a summer heat wave. This includes succulents and cacti that stay and leafy tropical are particularly susceptible to damage from heat.

Don’t worry, for every problem under the sun, nature has a solution and there is plenty that you can do to keep your garden thriving during the summer. Here are some of the most important summer plant care tips to get you started.

1. Promote high humidity: Plants that like high humidity (tropical plants such as fittonia, monsteras, calathea, and most ferns) need to be frequently misted through periods of heat. You can also fill your planters base plate with pebbles, fill it with water, and set your pot on top or group your plants together and put a bucket of water in the middle to create a little humid microclimate for your plant that will provide humidity and help them through the summer.
2. Water well, and water deeply. We can’t say this enough, proper watering is the key to indoor plant care. Though over-watering is the most efficient way to kill your houseplant, the summer heat causes water to evaporate form the soil at a much faster rate. So make sure water your plants deep and slow. If you pour a lot of water in a rush the soil does not get time to absorb the water and it just drains through the drainage holes at the bottom and if you water too little only the topsoil gets wet while the lower roots get dehydrated. Make sure the water is actually absorbed by watering slowly.

PS: There is a simple hack, start with the first plant and say your plants need two glasses of water to get through the day, start by giving them one glass of water one after the other and then do the circuit again once you have watered the last plant. This gives the plants enough time to absorb the water.

3. In the summers, check your plants for a second round of watering in the evening. Check for drooping leaves and dried out soil with the trusty “finger test” – water when soil feels dry at 1-2″ down for most tropical plants. Another key indicator of fast-drying, compacted soil is when the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot. If there’s a gap between the soil and the side of the pot, it’s time to rehydrate! Just make sure that you water in the evenings when the heat is on a decline. If the sun is just setting or set already, then misting the dry leaves is also a good option.

PS: If you happen to have your A/C on in the summers, remember that dry air can dry pots out just as quickly as the sun.

4. Shade sensitive plants from too much sun. If your plants are in a south or west facing balcony are especially susceptible to leaf burn. Move them to corners that do not get a full day of direct sun and water them deeply every morning. Try grouping plants together and shade more delicate varieties like ferns behind hardier and larger varieties.
5. Don’t fertilize your plant if it seems to be struggling. The first response is to fertilise a plant when we see them struggling, but if the struggle is due to heat damage fertilising is not such a good idea. Though fertilizer is your friend, especially during summer, a stressed plant is not looking for extra nutrients and isn’t fit enough to use them and doing so might stress your plant further.
6. Don’t re-pot during peak summer. Always do your repotting before the summer truly sets in. Proper repotting requires trimming some of the root mass (attempt only if you know how) and leaves also get damaged. All this sets the plants at a risk of shock and stress if its done in peak summer. So, keep your repotting for cooler weather when your plants don’t have survival at the forefront.
7. While pruning is essential for good plant growth, pruning plants in the peak of summer puts them at the risk of stress and shock. Also, in the summer some leaves wilt and brown solely due to the heat and taking them to a be an indication of dying plants and trimming them is not exactly a good idea. Wait for the summer to pass for a hard prune or prune them before summer (March and early April is a good time).
8. Learn to read your plants and recognise the signs of stress. Reading the signs is essential to arresting the damage before it takes over the whole plant. The signs of stress in summer are mostly either relating to too much heat or too little water. They are:

• The tropical plants (especially the trailing ones) will wilt due to too much heat. They need to be sheltered more.
• Pale foliage is a sign of stress
• Rough brown and burnt leaves, yellow patches or brown spots are all a sign of sunburn.
• Flower and leaf drop are also a sign of plant stress.

9. Along with watering the plants, composting helps keep your plants hydrated and healthy. Carefully remove the top inch of your potting soil and replace it with a layer of compost for a more hydrated soil.

PS: Covering the topsoil with good mulch or moss also helps retain moisture by lessening surface evaporation.

10. If you have no corner where you can move your plants away from direct afternoon sun, then consider making a makeshift shade with the green sunshade available in any nursery or local hardware store in summers.

Summers are a great time for plants to grow if they get enough moisture. Just remember the golden rule, more light means more photosynthesis that requires more water. Also, there is rapid loss of water in from the leaf surface, stems, and soil surface due to heat. So, balance out the increased heat and light with the frequency and quantity of watering for a thriving summer garden.

As science progressed, the distance between us and nature increased with time and we slowly lost and forgot the age old wisdom we derived from nature. The ways in which plants heal us and aid us in day to day functioning. Sometimes, just having plants around you is enough for them to work their magic.

Here are a list of houseplants that can have a huge beneficial impact on our day to day lives and why having them around is a good idea for anyone.

1. Aloe Vera: Famously known as the plant of immortality in ancient Greek and Roman civilisations, the Indian text of Ayurveda also waxes eloquent about the benefits of the mystical ghritakumari. It contains powerful antioxidants and fights bacterial infections, heart diseases, cancer, type 2 diabetes, gastric ulcers, and so much more. It is also famed for its ability to promote healthy hair and skin. This wonder plant is also an air purifying succulent that will help you sleep better at night in exchange for very little care and time.
2. Areca Palm: This stately, but highly undervalued beauty, will not only turn you home into an instant coastal getaway. But also eliminates a majority of indoor pollutants, NASA ranks areca palm as one of the best air purifiers for indoor spaces. It also reduces chances of skin irritation, cancer, and asthma linked to formaldehyde pollution. It will also be an excellent addition to your bedroom to improve your sleeping pattern.
3. Basil: Famed as the holy herb, not only in India but across civilisations for its medicinal properties and health benefits, the basil has been loved for centuries. Basil is rich in polyphenols that fight inflammation, promote gastrointestinal health, has anti-microbial, and antibacterial properties. It is also known to have positive effects in fighting depression and reducing stress.
4. Fern: Amongst some of the oldest plants on the planet, the ferns are prized for their air purifying and humidifying properties. They work effectively against formaldehyde, xylene, and toluene that are found very commonly in all homes. These toxins are known to lead to several health issues such as headaches, breathing issues, and also growth of cancerous cells. Ferns are a great fit for homes with kids and pets, as they are non-toxic and make for magnificent hanging plants.
5. Holy Basil: From seeds to leaf extracts, every part of the Holy Basil is filled with healing compounds. Famously known in India as Tulsi, almost every home is required to have it as per traditions. Its essential oil is known to completely stop the growth of staph bacteria (MRSA) and E.coli. It helps fight bacterial infection, reduces cold and flu symptoms, promotes gastrointestinal health, improves respiratory issues, promotes healthy skin, and so much more.
6. Rubber Plant: This stunner is famed for its leathery ornamental leaves, but its air purifying qualities are often forgotten. One of the best air-purifiers for a range of indoor air-pollutants, especially formaldehyde that causes respiratory and skin issues and is also carcinogenic. With proper care a rubber plant can grow up to 7 to 10 feet.
7. The spider plant and the snake plant: With no relation to the reptile and insect kingdom, these plants are one of the best air purifiers you can have in your home. Famed for removing a wide range of airborne toxins, they are extremely easy to maintain. The snake plant is great at filtering pollutants emerging from manufactured goods and cleaning products that increase the risk of cancer. While, spider plants are excellent at trapping particulate matter (dust, mould, and smoke), they are one of the most efficient eliminators of benzenes that cause cancer, impact blood health, and so on. Both these plants produce oxygen at night.
8. ZZ Plant: This excellent low-care indoor plant is famous for removing toxins that contribute to “the sick building syndrome” a collection of symptoms that include headache, dizziness, respiratory problems, allergies, asthma, and other issues connected to chronic exposure to indoor air pollutants. The plant requires minimal water, light, and care while performing its best to improve indoor environment.
9. Philodendron: Philodendrons have many family members and no one is lesser than the other. They are notoriously tough and at the same time beautiful and lush. They are excellent at filtering out a number of air toxins that impact our health severely. It also increases indoor oxygen saturation due to its fast metabolism.
10. Dracaena: They enjoy a pedestal in several cultures for their symbolic value, but we believe that it stems from the innumerable benefits these plants bring. A superior air-purifying plant that eliminates air-borne toxins that cause respiratory problems and increase the risk of cancer. It also boosts oxygen levels in indoor spaces during say time.

Scientific studies have proven that plants promote mental well being with studies showing a clear decline in anxiety levels and ADHD symptoms. Gardening as a hobby also helps calm our nervous system and caters to our affinity to nature and grounds us and our thoughts, science now terms this affinity as biophilia.

Plants improve humidity, reduce indoor temperature, and also help with sound absorption. Both ornamental and food gardening are excellent habits to inculcate in the younger generation and also lead to more rounded physical and psychological development.

The myth that plants need extra care and attention and that home gardening is an uphill task need to be busted to make way for a better and greener future. Select plants to suit your space (light availability) and how much time you can spare. There is not plant that’s bad, some are just more suitable; and if you have any doubts, our plant experts are just a call away.

Happy gardening!

Adding plants to your home is one of the easiest ways to add extra life to your space. But, finding the right planters can be a little bit of a challenge—they should be functional, but not restrict your style. In recent times, there has been more to life than plain terra cotta. With some of the trendy indoor planters available, your greenery will be looking its best even if you miss your watering schedule a couple of times.

Lets take a look at the trends and the type of planters ruling the world of social media these days and give you some great ideas to make your space worthy of the gram.

1. Sleek, modern minimalism

Bulky, ornate planters are out, and sleek, modern styles are in. Many of these modern styles tend to be lightweight to ease movement as per décor changes.

2. Heavy-duty materials

Wood-trimmed, galvanized, and corrugated finish planters are being seeing more and more. The angular metal containers seem to work better with contemporary houses. Cast concrete containers, as well as lightweight lookalikes made of resin, are trending.

3. Neutral, muted colours

It’s not surprising that neutral colours are dominating planters. People are gravitating towards shades of black, white, grey, and gold. Besides neutrals, the one colour that has stood the test of time is cobalt blue.

4. Rustic and rusty

The idea of repurposing rusty old junk into treasured garden art is catching steam around the globe. The “shabby chic garden antique aesthetic,” is going for the win and by planting in weathered metal colanders, perforated locker drawers, chipped teacups, and other household items is a great option.

5. In the end, variety wins

The best way to go about and to add your own personality is to mix and match pots among these trends, rather than overhauling the entire pottery collection to match each season’s style. Where you live and personal tastes are also important, so variety is essential.

Now, let’s talk about specific planter looks that are a permanent fixture in all the lovely décor posts you see. After all, no home is complete without plants.

1. Rope Plant Basket: Sometimes the easiest way to dress up a plant is to put it in a woven rope basket. it adds the right amount of farmhouse chic to any space. Just lift it out to water and drain.

2. Modern Geometric Ceramic Planter : This planter serves up a subtle cool with its all-over geometric pattern. What’s more is that you can customise your planters with a little DIY involving a plain white ceramic planter and marker pens.

3. Hanging Planter : No space no worries. Hanging planters today come in so much variety, from coir to brass, that you will be spoilt for choice. Create nooks of green and put a reading chair in your green oasis for that ultimate relaxing space. It also helps add height to your space. Macramé is bae.

4. Tiled planters: Get a hint of Jaipur or Morocco to your homes with colourful tiled planters. They bring back the summer holiday vibes with some ethnic feels. You can also go for tile or ikkat prints on ceramic planters. It is the right dose of pop.

5. Wooden planters : Rustic, sustainable, understated chic, mid-century modern, and versatile. What more can be said.

6. Colour block planters: Like colour, but not too much of it. This is your answer. The prefect combination of neutral to colour for your décor.

7. Self-watering pots : For those of you who always kill your plants, I present to you: a self-watering planter. It does all the hard work for you.

8. Geometric metal hanging : Give your hanging plants a little geometric flair with metallic hanging pots, which feature minimalistic wire frames for that perfect Scandinavian décor. If you want to go lux, go for the gold edged terrariums in metal and glass.

9. Bust/face Pot : Turn your corners into a little art museum or a fun quirky station by planting greenery and flowers in new face planters or Grecian bust pots.

10. Modern Planter With Wood Stand: Mid-century modern fans will love this sleek, simple planter, which comes with a wooden stand. Doesn’t eat up the floor space while elevating your plants to the next level.

11. Gold/copper floor planters: For a simple pop of warmth and shine, go with this metal plant pot in gold or copper finish. Also, super lux.

12. Concrete Pot: Searching for a simple, industrial pot for tiny plants like succulents? Look no further than these babies in handmade concrete.So, what are you waiting for. Get planting. Happy gardening!

There are many kinds of hanging planters in the market today that not only work as perfect homes for your plants but also make your home look prettier.

Types

1. Clay-based: they bring a rustic charm to the setting but they dry out faster. Although terracotta is the best for plant health. 
2. Ceramic: They hold water and work well for the health of your plants while also adding colour and sophistication to your home. 
3. Metal pots: The modern, chic, and minimal type of hanging planter. Direct planting is not possible for metal pots and they need a plastic liner pot.

Planter shape:

1. Wide containers: Good for spreading plants with delicate root systems that need to spread out before they spill over the sides. For e.g. Sedum 
2. Circular/ Oval planter: Good for almost all kinds of plants, they are also easy to hang. For e.g. Philodendrons 
3. Tall/Vertical planters: Good for plants that have a deeper root system and need more soil for healthy growth. For e.g. Bird’s Nest Fern 

Style file:

1. Hanging jungle: Create a green oasis in a well-lit corner of your home with hanging planters at different heights and club them with floor planters for an enviable green nook. 
2. Kokedama display: Go zen and minimal with this Japanese method of gardening. A good way to show your plant and DIY love and set you a notch above other plant parents. 
3. Hanging terrariums: If you are a proponent of the whimsical and dreamy look then glass terrariums are for you. Make sure that the terrarium has a good-sized opening for air circulation. 
4. Macrame plant hangers: Macrame hangers can turn any planter into a hanging one while adding rustic charm to your space. Want to go farmhouse chic, use jute ropes. 

Plant it up:

Some plants are made for hanging planters and trailing leaves are what dreams are made of. Hanging planters save floor space while giving you all the joys of owning a garden. Hanging planters are also a good way to utilise those dead corners that get light but have no other scope for décor.

The following are some of the best plants suited for hanging planters:

1. Peperomia: the green oval leaves of the peperomia are an eye-pleasing sight and with their trailing quality and sturdy stems they make for excellent hanging plants. Put them in narrower planters to show off their foliage to the full effect.
2. Staghorn fern: The true epiphytes. They are excellent for wall mounting and grow in unusual containers like empty coconut shells or driftwood mounts. They are survivors and don’t require any extra attention to add an unusual charm to your home.
3. Spider plant: NASA favourite for air purification. They give birth to babies on long slender stems that hang down from the mother plant in a stunning cascade. Give them any planter and they will live happily but are especially stunning in wide planters where they spread to take over the whole area.
4. Fern: Be it boston, rabbit’s foot, emina, or any other cousin of the family, ferns add the much needed tropical vibe to your space and a burst of lush green foliage that is hard to compete with.
5. Birds nest fern: With their wide leaves and rosetted pattern of growing, birds nest fern are easy to take care of in hanging planters. They are also a great option for kokedama. The best part, they tend to grow only as big as the container allows them to, so you can control the size.
6. Philodendrons: There is nothing easier and more joyous to grow than a philodendron, be it in a hanging pot or not. They are easy to grow and tame, let them trail elegantly down the planters or let them trail up the wall, there is nothing that the plant won’t do.
7. Syngonium: The arrowheads come in several shapes and sizes and look especially great in macrame hangers, with their arrow shaped leaves poking out beautifully.

While I am a firm believer of the fact that any trailing or spreading plant can be planted in hanging planters, many purists don’t subscribe to the same belief system. But, it’s your garden and you can reign it like the boss that you are, get creative and see what looks best in your home and garden away.

Happy gardening!

The skill lies in identifying the varieties that work best for you and your space and not losing your way in the stunning forest of indoor plants. One of the best ways to display your signature sense of style and understanding of houseplants is by grouping together plants. Now, grouping of plants is not only for its looks, but it also helps plants grow better. They create their own community, plants in groups always grow better than plants that grow alone.

Some foliage plants simply look much more attractive when grouped together to be displayed as a single unit. Grouping can be of many types; it can be as simple as bringing together plants in different pots together and arranging them in a cluster on the floor or windowsill to create a stunning display with variety of form, colour, texture, and pattern of foliage. It can also be about bringing together individual liner pots (plastic pots used in nurseries) in a bigger decorative pot. The most exquisite displays are of plants that are planted together in one container.

Here we are going to talk about the various plants requirements and design aesthetics that you can keep in mind while grouping plants. There is just one rule when it comes to grouping and its absolute when planting plants in one container, all the plants must have the same requirements. You cannot pair a succulent with a fern because while moisture is a boon to one its bane to the other. So plants that are compatible are a must and you can make your own displays.

So, what are we waiting for, let’s go!

The guiding principles:

1. The simplest is to group together plants of the same type/family. Mix together different forms and colours of cactuses to make a desert garden or bring together succulents of varying forms and colours to make a stunning desert terrariums.

Group together zebra haworthia (erect) with succulents in contrasting shapes like echeveria (flatter) and add some flowy shape with a String of Pearls or donkeys tale. One way to add colour to this is with a moon cactus or variegated crassula.

2. One popular way of grouping is by shape. A display can be roughly spherical, conical, flat horizontal, vertical columnar, or triangular. Whatever the shape, it can be further emphasized by a complimentary planter shape.

For a tall container use a moss stick to help vine like philodendron climb and pair it with a Ficus variety to complement the height. If you want to add some depth let a trailing variety grow down the sides of the tall planter.

3. For a more subtle grouping get together a Spathiphyllum and pair it with an Aglaonema or a small cobra fern. You can also add a dracaena for some height and variety of foliage.
4. When creating a hanging basket of grouped plants the idea is to not make it to weighed down in term of foliage. Bring together plants with more delicate foliage but in contrasting colours and shape like spider plants, rabbit’s foot fern, and a wispier philodendron like the broken heart.
5. To add colour to a group bring together brightly coloured plants like croton or red aglaonema with mellower foliage like ferns or peperomias. You can also add trailing varieties like the sedum as ground cover.
6. Pair flowering plants like kalanchoes with peperomia, fittonia, and philodendron on a moss stick. The idea is to use brightly coloured flowering plants with darker green foliage of contrasting shapes and growing patterns.
7. Create your own tropical forest with bamboo palms growing alongside variegated peperomia, Fittonia and a Ficus benjamina.

You can also group together plants in individual pots in a larger container for a more striking look. If you are a pro gardener you can go ahead and group together any plant, but if you are someone who is still learning the ropes, stick to plants with similar light and water requirements. That way it is easier to take care of the whole group because different plants need different things in different light conditions.

While grouping plants never overlook the impact a good planter can have on your space. Don’t shy away from investing in a good planter. A good classic planter will stay with you forever and you can keep using the same one for many plants season after season. Metallic toned planters add luxury to space  while colourful ceramic planters can add the much needed colourful patterns to break the monotony of a space. While white minimalistic and monochrome planters make the space lighter and airier.

Grouping plants is a great way to take the same common and easily available house plants and create something interesting out of them. It allows you to add your own personal touch to you space and have a unique piece that no one else has. It brightens corners and draws eyes to those corners we generally ignore.

So, get your creative socks on and start looking at plants differently and wonder if this plant will go well with the other one and just mix and match.

The science behind how much light and water your plants need.

Russell Page very rightly said “If you wish to make anything grow, you must understand it, and understand it in a very real sense. ‘Green fingers’ are a fact, and a mystery only to the unpractised. But green fingers are the extensions of a verdant heart.”

While gardening with your own two hands and watching plants grow is a joy like no other, no gardening journey is without its losses. But the idea is to always strive for lesser casualties and more joy. I have personally seen people struggle with getting the light and water right for some plants and we get many customers who are not very sure about what is bright indirect or medium light. So here we are, with a detailed scientific approach for plant survival.

While we can wax eloquent about gardening for days, this blog has to be on point to deliver as much useful knowledge in as little time as possible. With this piece, we aim to tell you about what role water and light play in plant growth, understanding various types of light, understanding soil types and water retention. We will also talk about the watering needs of different types of plants and the ever elusive but easy to grasp concept of ratio of light to water.

So let’s get started!

What is photosynthesis?

We have all studied it but let’s revisit it from a gardening perspective, the process of photosynthesis. It is the process by which plants use light to convert water, carbon di-oxide, and nutrients in the soil to energy rich organic compounds for their growth. So it is essential that plants get the right ratio of light to water and are planted in a pot that is right for their size. It is also essential to understand that potted plants do not have an unlimited source of nutrients, as the soil remains the same for years, so replenishing the nutrients by external means is absolute for a healthy growth.

Understanding light

It’s not just sunlight and artificial light! There are several other terms in the entire spectrum, like bright direct, dappled shade or sun, bright indirect, medium indirect, and low light. Lets tackle them one by one:

1. Bright direct light: This is the easy one, it is direct sunlight. The one that makes us pull out or caps and shades and put on sunscreen is what we garden gnomes call bright direct light. It can be the morning sun or the blazing afternoon. The idea that even plants that love the sun die in the hot afternoon is a myth that we shall tackle in the later sections.

2. Dappled shade/sun: Imagine standing under the shade of a tree and small beams of filtered sunlight reaching you – that is dappled sun/shade. This can be achieved in home with the green sun-shade you can buy from Amazon or any hardware shop by yardage at a nominal price. This is especially handy for people with south facing terraces whose plants burn out in peak summer.

3. Bright Indirect: The light spectrum where the plants are in a party mood! Loved by almost all plants, or rather all. What exactly would you call bright indirect? Natural light in which you can read a newspaper easily is bright indirect. Not a book, not your phone but the bleeding small font of a newspaper without angling the paper right or squinting.

4. Medium indirect: Light that reaches your plant through sheer curtains or when the plant is placed at least 7-8 feet away from a bright window. You probably can’t read a newspaper but a book is fair game in this light.

5. Low light: Low light is when no direct light reaches your plant whatsoever. Where you can probably read but also fall asleep in peace. It is the cool ambience in summer afternoons that puts you to sleep.

Understanding soil and water retention

There is more than just brown soil. Some are heavy dense, while others are lighter and loose. I have heard many people argue with me that nature perseveres despite circumstances and grows in whatever is available, even a crack in the concrete. While I am the biggest supporter of that statement, what we need to understand that growing certain plants for ornamental purposes and letting nature take over the land are two different things, similar to fishes in the lake and in an aquarium. In potted plants its essential to provide the right soil mix for both the plant’s benefit and your ease of gardening. A very dense clayey soil will hold too much water and might lead to root rot and also make it difficult for you to get the plant out of the pot at the time of repotting.

One of the most fail proof and generic soil mix is 2 parts garden soil, 1 part cocopeat, and 1 part compost. It has enough strength to provide the roots with a holding support, while the cocopeat help in aeration of the roots and the organic manure provides all the nutrients a plant requires for healthy growth. The cocopeat also comes in handy when the plant has to be removed and repotted in a bigger pot.

The plant to pot ratio is also important for gardening success. A plant of a specific size will need only a certain quantity of water and a larger pot with more soil means more water that is held in the soil. So, a pot that is too big for a plant means less frequent watering and a pot that is too small for a plant means more frequent watering. It is also essential to have a lighter pot mix to allow the excess water to drain easily. Oh…and how could we forget the all too important and essential drainage hole. Always, and I can’t stress this enough, always have a pot with a drainage hole.

One of the easiest ways to check if your plant needs water is to poke you fingers at least an inch deep into the topsoil (which will not be possible if you have dense loamy soil) and if your finger comes out clean then your plant needs watering. In case you have not yet changed the potting soil and its dense still, check for cracks on the topsoil. One more good method for checking is by monitoring the weight of the planter, a plant in need of watering will weigh lighter than the plant that’s just been watered or has water in it.

The philosophy of “moist but not soggy” soil is all about having the right type of soil that does not turn into muck and drown the roots on watering, rather retains the right amount of moisture and lets the excess drain out.

Understanding the watering needs of different kinds of plants

Different plants photosynthesise at different speeds and it all depends on where they come from. Tropical plants like ferns that grow on the forest floor love indirect light with lots of humidity, mimicking the conditions they grow in. Whereas palms and succulents worship the sun in their dry as the desert potting medium. It is important to know your plants and where they come from, treat them as individuals with varying needs and you will realise they are not so different after all.

Water your ferns more regularly and palms just as rarely. If you have plants with bulbous roots (ZZ) or fleshy leaves (crassula) then let them be for a while, they store enough water to live freely. Thick but non woody tropical plants like the aglaonema are good with infrequent watering but love humidity. Plants with woody stems are more drought tolerant, meaning they prefer being underwatered than overwatered any day.

Understanding the water to light ratio for plants

Remember this, when a plant gets more light (brighter or for a greater number of hours) it will need more water and when it gets lesser light it will require comparatively lesser water. Water is a direct requirement of photosynthesis and evaporation of moisture from the leaf surface, so more sunlight means more requirement for water. So in those hot summer months when you feel that your plants are drying out far too much, all they need is, to be watered twice a day.

PS: Ensure that the foliage is dry when watering in peak sun, the little water droplets work as a magnifying glass for sunrays and lead to leaf scorching.

The mantra is pretty simple, more light means more water but only when your plant needs it. Don’t water your succulents daily just because they are  in the sun, also don’t stop watering your ferns just because they are indoors because they love water. Understand you plants and where they come from. Look for signs like yellowing leaves that is a sign of overwatering, while browning tips are a sign of underwatering or infrequent watering.

Gardening is easy, take a breath and look at your plants, really look at them. Treat them as living beings with needs and signs of both distress and happiness. The occasional dry leave are natural and a part of the natural progression. In any case if you are a part of the Ugaoo family and you have issues that are beyond your understanding, then give us a call and let us help you in your gardening journey.

Herbs don’t take up much space and if you Pinterest the idea, you will get several hacks for space saving herb gardens on window wills, kitchen shelves in mason jars, and what not. We are here to tell you the A to Z of  starting your own successful herb garden, coz heaven knows it’s not similar to ornamental gardening!

Let’s start with the planning:

1. Identify an area in your home that gets direct sun for at least 3-4 hours and bright indirect light for the rest of the day. It can be anywhere, in you balcony, windowsill, kitchen shelves or a wall where you can install shelves.
2. Make a list of herbs you need. There is a plethora of herbs that are grown across the globe, select the ones you use more. For Indian kitchens coriander and mint are a no brainer, apart from these select the ones you want such as basil, rosemary, thyme, parsley, marjoram, sage and so on.
3. Group herbs with similar needs, for instance sage, thyme, and oregano prefer rocky soils that are relatively dry, while mint, cilantro, and parsley need a rich but well-draining soil.
4. Select pots with good drainage. One of the most common killers of herbs is overwatering, so it becomes essential to ensure that they are never in standing water and the soil is rich but well-draining.
5. Always use good quality seeds. Spend a few extra bucks and get quality seeds for a thriving herb garden. Good seeds also contribute to better taste.
6. Stock up on equipment like pots or planters, they can be anything from basic plastic pots to mason jars or old container, the only requirement is proposer drainage at the bottom. Sharp scissors for regular harvesting of herbs, herbs are all about the foliage and the more you prune/harvest the bushier they get. Get yourself a watering can for watering directly into roots, herbs like cilantro or parsley don’t like water on their leaves. Stock up on basic fertilisers and organic pesticides for denser foliage and better growth.

With the planning out of the way let’s move on to the actual herbs and their requirements.

1. Parsley: Parsley is a mild bitter herb used in everything from Italian to Middle eastern cuisine and goes on both as a garnish and as an integral ingredient. It helps dishes like soups and stews achieve a balanced flavour. Parsley is a good source of Vitamins A and C and as an added benefit, it also aids in digestion. It is often grown as an annual that grows to be large and bushy.

2. Mint: There are several varieties of mint. It is famously used in drinks like mojitos or mint juleps, it also adds freshness to your iced tea and lemonade (nimbu sharbat for the win!). Dried mint is used in marinades for kebabs and mint and coriander chutney has a cult following of its own. Medicinally mint freshens the breath and will help to calm your stomach. Take care to grow it in a container or this invasive species will spread and take over your garden. Give it a partially sunny spot with ample watering in a well-draining soil.

3. Basil: Basil is bae! You can love the large leaf Italian basis or purple sweet basil, I won’t judge. This plant is popular in many cuisines but is a hero in Italian cooking like pizzas, salads, sauces, and pesto. Basil has several health benefits and is said to provide defence against low blood sugar. In old Greek and Roman civilisations basil sprigs were carried around to be used as mouth fresheners. Give it a sunny spot with a well-draining but rich soil.

4. Rosemary: We have declared Rosemary the queen of herbs. A flavour bomb for poultry, meats, and vegetable dishes, it also finds extensive use in sweet dishes in modern cuisine. It has a very distinct and potent fragrance that soothes the senses, it is used extensively in candles for aroma and soaps for its anti-microbial properties. Rosemary likes its soil a bit on the dry side, so be careful not to overwater and watch it grow into a full sized bush.
5. Coriander: It is also known as Cilantro or Chinese parsley. It is the OG Indian herb, and almost any savoury dish can be elevated with coriander, irrespective of the cuisine. Personally, it is a staple and who can say not to the green chutney. Coriander like a rich but well-draining soil, give it a cool spot and never water on the leaves, they will blacken and rot.
6. Thyme: One of the most delicate looking herbs, thyme is often used for flavouring meat, poultry, vegetables, or soups. As a condiment, very few things can beat thyme butter. It is frequently used in the Mediterranean, Italian, and Provençal French cuisines. It loves full sun and a very well-draining soil.

7. Sage: Sage true to its name finds use in both culinary escapades and religious practice of certain communities. It is an aromatic herb used extensively for seasoning meats, sauces, and vegetables and needs to be used sparingly to prevent it from overpowering the complete dish. Sage also helps to relieve cuts, inflammation, and is believed to help with memory issues. Sage is an easy herb to grow and is relatively easy to care for in dry well-draining soil with ample sun. It’s great in your garden for attracting bees.

8. Oregano: A famous member of the mint family, native to the warm climates of Eurasia and the Mediterranean. Oregano is a perennial plant and is sometimes called wild marjoram in certain parts. It is used for flavouring a plethora of dishes and is a staple herb of Italian and American cuisine. In the United States, it gained popularity following World War II as the “pizza herb.” Give it a light and well-draining soil with full to part sun, it is more tolerant to underwatering.

9. Chervil: With flat lacy leaves and a hint of anise in its taste, it enhances the flavour of chicken, fish, vegetables, eggs, and salads. A quintessential heirloom herb that was most likely introduced to European herb gardening by the Romans. Closely related to Parsley, chervil has become an indispensable herb plant in the kitchen and a classic component of French cuisine. It loves full sun in rich loamy soil, but do not overwater.
10. Chives: Chives are native to Asia but have been used as an additive to food for almost 5,000 years. A member of the garlic family and chives are famous as garnish especially with sour cream. Mostly used for flavouring, it is one of the “fine herbs” of French cuisine. It works well with eggs, fish, potatoes, salads, and soups and are an excellent source of beta carotene and Vitamin C. They thrive in full sun in a rich but well-draining soil.

After the planning and the list of herbs that can be grown easily as a part of your kitchen garden let’s move on to a few pointers for maintenance.

1. Water each herb as per its needs. A standard rule for watering is to dig your fingers one inch into the soil, if its dry and does not stick to your finger then water the plant. Another tell-tale sign is dropping leaves.
2. Ensure that there is plenty moving air around your herbs. Stuffy and closed growing environment attracts pests.
3. The more your prune your herbs, the more they will grow. If growing from seeds, prune the top couple of leaves once the plant is at least 6 inches long to promote branching. After that pluck, the top couple of leaves on very branch to have bushy growth.
4. For harvesting, never cut more than two thirds of a plant or branch. Never let your herbs flower, the flowering changes the taste of your herb, so keep pruning the growing tip.
5. Feed your plant with a well-balanced organic fertiliser in growing months for better growth and use foliar spray for bigger leaves.
6. If you have more herbs than you need, air dry them completely over days and then store them in airtight containers to be used later.

The list of herbs you can grow are endless and so are their uses in both culinary experiments and medicinal requirements. Herbs are easy to grow and do not require daily attention, they are just finicky about light and water, too much or too little of both kills them. Take it from my personal experience, there is nothing more rewarding than a kitchen garden.

Happy Gardening!

Well, 2020 was an absolute eyeopener. While some of us displayed our productive best, some of us just waited for it to be over and going by the recent pandemic news the wait is not yet over. One more thing it has made us realize that we all need hobbies, productive hobbies, other than work and we have to make our home our refuge for bad days. Lets bring these two together and we have gardening. Plants are more than just air purifiers and oxygen generators and you don’t have to take our word for it, but there are scientific studies that prove that plants make people happier by making the home a stress free environment. Gardening is also a positive hobby that is tactile in nature and channelizes thoughts and energy into a positive outlet. What’s more, even the potting soil can help you keep a handle on daily stress and anxiety. This is because soil contains microbes dubbed “outdoorphins” (M. vaccae) which work as natural antidepressants.

And for all this, all they want in return is light, a little bit of water, and an audience to flaunt themselves. So, lets make 2021 the year of home gardening.

For you we have curated a list of house plants that pretty much grow themselves. Almost all the indoor plants listed here thrive indoors in indirect light from windows and can live happily in regular Indian weather conditions. However, just as man proposes and God disposes, there can be a few unforeseen issues like too much water or infestations. For which we can only say underwatering is way better than overwatering and taking preventive measures like spraying neem oil once a month will keep the pests away.

FYI, succulents are not a part of the list for the only reason that everyone is expecting them to be and we couldn’t agree more…so succulents are a good choice if you have little time to water your garden.

Lets get to the plants then!

1. Monstera Deliciosa or the Swiss Cheese plant

The current mogul of the plant world, it is famous as the Swiss Cheese plant for the shape of their leaves. This tropical superstar has many variants and all of them are pretty easy to grow. Adaptable to almost all light conditions (don’t play dark room with them!) they will forgive you for underwatering them. The tell tale signs of trouble for this low maintenance stunner are crispy leaves meaning sunburn or too little water and yellowing leaves that mean too much water. But no worries, a li’l TLC and they will spring back into action.

2. Philodendrons

Well well well…ask any plant parent and they will say that philodendrons are the most giving of all plants. With over 400 varieties, these quick growers come in all shapes and sizes, while some are erect, some climb and spread. Suitable for almost all indoor growing conditions, these are perfect for you if you have not had much success with plants prior and for the seasoned gardeners, give yourself a break and create a collection of philos. They need bright indirect light and watering when the topsoil is dry. Yellowing leaves are a tell tale sign of overwatering…and no major issues we can think of.

3. Aglaonema or the Chinese Evergreen

These lush low-light plants will thrive in any and every corner of your home, just keep them away from direct sunlight. With over 20 varieties, they come in coloured variegations from reds and pinks to white. Famous in Asia for centuries as bringers of luck and fortune, they are also known as the Chinese Evergreen. They love humidity and prefer a moist soil. However, we can’t stress this enough for any plant…MOIST BUT NOT SOGGY. Place them in those empty corners or hallways and they will fill your homes with dense green lushness.

4. Sansevieria or the Snake Plant

Snake plant or mother in law’s tongue has more than 70 variants with erect lance like leaves. But don’t be fooled by their futuristic and minimal appearance they are one of the hardest to kill plants and the best air purifiers you can find. They grow in almost all light conditions, except direct sun, and take up very little space. Sansevierias are extremely drought resistant and are the best option for people with a jet setting lifestyle. Select a variant that suits your space the best pair it with a stunning planter and voila!

5. Spathiphyllum or the Peace Lily

Yes Queen! Peace lilies are the best, graceful, lush, beautiful white flowers, and no fuss. These proficient air purifiers love brightly lit indoors with good humidity. They are great for improving both air quality and home décor, while taking very little of your time and attention for care. They need to be watered regularly, as we said MOIST BUT NOT SOGGY. While yellowing leaves are signs of overwatering, brown tips are a sign of dehydration. Give them ample light and they will grow rapidly to reward you with hearty blooms.

6. ZZ plant

The Zanzibar Gem or the Zamioculcas zamiifolia has been around for centuries in Africa before its recent and very well deserved superstardom. This plant is sometimes mistaken for being artificial given its perennially green foliage and ability to survive without water and in minimal light for weeks on end. Excellent for offices, it requires minimal human intervention to thrive.

7. Crassula Mini or the Jade plant

The lucky jade is lucky indeed. With a small list of requirements this is the plant to have. The crassula can be moulded to grow in specific shapes and makes for excellent desk plants. Give it bright indirect light to partial sun and it will grow year after year into a dense foliage of cute, rounded leaves. The jade is closely related to the succulent family and loves to be watered only when the growing medium is completely dry.

8. Bromeliads

They are finally home! Considered to be a greenhouse plant for a very long, they have finally made their well deserved foray into indoor spaces. These low maintenance beauties are great for spaces with partial shade to indirect light and when they flower…phew! Give it good light and some humidity and it will reward you with bright orange flowers.

9. Ficus

The plants of the Ficus family are a home gardener’s delight. The Ficus Lyrata or the fiddle leaf fig, the Ficus Elastica or the rubber plant, and the Ficus prestige are great indoor plants. They require minimal care and thrive in bright indoor light to add charm and refinement to your home. They are reigning at the top on the global plant scene at a well-deserved spot.

10. Syngonium Mini

These hard to kill beauties start out small but spread out in a fashion true to their name of arrowhead vine. They are easy to care for and as long as you give them some water. With a wide range of colours and patterns they are perfect for both table tops and as climbers. They thrive in bright indirect to low light and are a great option for amateur gardeners.

This new year also calls for starting your own kitchen garden with easy to grow vegetables and herbs. Watch out for our next blog that will help set you on the journey.

Happy gardening!

As plant growth slows down in winters and the plant is gearing up for spring bloom, it is the best time to prune them. Pruning is essential to plant health. It promotes branching and blooming and gives the plant a chance to sprout new growth in the growing season. It also keeps it in shape, deters pests, and controls growth. Its almost year end and trust me, you are just in time to prune back your plants for this year.

There are several types of pruning:

1. Seasonal: Done at the end of growing season when the plant enters dormancy
2. Trimming or Plucking: removing dead leaves
3. Daily Pruning: To remove yellowing leaves or plant parts that are infested
4. Structural pruning: to maintain the shape of the plant and to make it appear fuller

The basics

While pruning may seem like an uphill task, it really is not and all you need is an eye for plants and understanding them and a pair of sharp pruning shears or scissors. Every plant or tree needs to be pruned for new growth, the only exception being members of the palm family. Only remove the dying leaves from the plants of this family, because if the fronds are trimmed or cut, they don’t give rise to new fronds. So, don’t ever prune the top of your palms.

Soft plants like vines and climbers don’t even need a shear and can be just pinched off where required. One of the most important points is never prune a plant to less than one third the branch or stem height.

Now, to make it simpler, we have listed the dos and don’ts of pruning.

Dos and Don’ts

1. Always use clean sharp shears to minimize the damage to the plant tissue. Buying pruning shears might feel like an added expense to home gardeners but trust me it makes gardening so much easier and it’s a onetime investment.
2. Always remove the dead and yellowing leaves from their base (petiole), and not midway, before they rot and lead to fungal infections.
3. Always make the cuts at 45 degrees to ensure that water does not stagnate on the exposed tissue and lead to diseases.
4. Always make the cut above a leaf node. Leaf nodes are where the growth hormones are concentrated, so cutting right above them ensures that new growth or branching happens in lesser time and is healthier.
5. When trimming to encourage a fuller growth never cut away more than two-thirds of the branch length.
6. When removing stragglers (the branches that grow randomly from the base of the plant and do not add to the foliage or blooms), trim them as close to the stem as possible.
7. For herbs, and in general for any plant, pinching away the top couple of inches of the plant promotes branching and leads to a fuller growth with more leaves and growing tips that can be further pinched. It is especially beneficial for flowering plants; a greater number of branches equals to more blooms.
8. Once the flower is spent, dies on the branch, always prune away the growth till above the next leaf node to encourage more blooms. You can prune it further lower to shape your plants if needed.
9. Removing extra growth and pruning back plants in their dormant season make more room for new growth once growing season arrives. The idea is to ensure that all the plant nutrition and hormones are concentrated in generating new growth and not supporting older foliage.
10. Plants that grow erect, case in point the fiddle leaf fig or the rubber plant need their growing tip to be pinched to promote branching. If you plant has grown too tall and leggy without any branches, don’t worry. Just cut the stem at the height you want branching to happen (don’t cut more than 2/3). Ensure that the cut is made just above a leaf node and then propagate the pruned top part. Voila! You now have two plants.

If pruning is not something you can bring yourself to do, because who cuts away healthy plants, remember its like shedding dead weight (metaphorically) and to make space for new and better things to come. It is as important as nutrition to plants. In nature, grazing animals do the trick but for home gardens it is us who have to take up the job.

Happy Gardening!

Whether you stay in the snow-clad northern part of the Indian subcontinent or the land of sunny winters in the south, there are flowers for every topography. Winter flowers might possibly be the easiest to grow of the whole spectrum, they need very basic care and some of the self-sowing plants grow back every year when the temperature dips. Lets delve deeper into some of the most popular and stunning varieties of flowers that blooms through winter, or the whole year in some cases.

Aboli Pink Flowers (Crossandra infundibuliformis)

Famous as the Priyadarshi or the Kanakaambara, these dainty orange-pink flowers are no-fuss, hardy perennials that bloom the year round. They are good with direct sunlight as well as indirect light. Start the seeds indoors in seedling trays or germination pots and transfer them outside or to a bigger planter once a couple of sets of true leaves appear. The plant typically blooms in 14 – 16 weeks from sowing.

Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia)

Alyssums are delicate soft tiny flowers emanating a sweet soft smell. In areas that do not experience any snow they can pretty much grow from fall/autumn to spring. Although the blooms fade away with the heat, they self-sow to come back in the fall when the weather cools down. They are easy to grow and care for and need full winter sun with moderate watering, avoid dry spells. The seeds can be scattered directly in the growing area and pressed down for better contact while still being exposed to light.

Aster (Asteraceae)

These beautiful perennials come in shades of white, blue, and purple and attract butterflies and bees. In areas that don’t experience any frost, they can flower through the year. These daisy like blooms have several varieties that do well with sun and regular watering. The flowers that are allowed to mature on the plant aid in self-sowing every season. Asters need to be germinated indoor first before transferring to the final growing area. Give them a rich soil and a little bit of care and watch them add colour to your garden all year round.

Snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus)

The name is the testimony it needs, while its common name equates its shape to the mythical dragon, its botanical name literally translates to “like a snout”. These mid-sized long flowering plants come in every hue possible and are a riot of saturated colours. A lover of cooler climates they grow from winters to spring, but if watered well through summer, they spring right back up with flowers as soon as temperature dips. Start the antirrhinums indoors in starter kits and move them out to pots or flower beds when the days are cooler and watch your garden come alive.

Marigold (Calendula officinalis)

With soft colours in the spectrum of buttery yellow to a bright orange, these hardy flowers bloom from summers till snow, and even beyond that in areas that have warmer winter months. The best part about the calendula is that the more flowers you pluck, the more it flowers! This hardy plant can be sown directly in the winter months at least an inch deep in a well-draining soil with full to partial sun.

Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens)

This European beauty is at its glorious best in winters, but it can be easily turned into a perennial with some basic care. These clustered beauties in pink, white, red, or purple are excellent as ground cover or border plants. The seeds can be started indoors and transferred out when the saplings are strong. The candytufts love full sun and a well-draining soil for flowering profusely.

Carnations (Dianthus caryophyllus)

These crinkly, sweet smelling and long lasting blooms are a delight to grow. Carnations are perennials that bloom from early spring well into the summer months and almost the year round in areas with milder winters. They can both be started indoors or directly planted in flower beds with nutrient rich but well-draining soil. Frequent pruning and deadheading once they start blooming guarantees more blooms in the flowering season.

Chrysanthemums

More commonly known as mums these hardy perennials are a joy for every gardener when they bloom profusely in a whole spectrum of bright happy colours. Just give them a rich but well-draining soil and lots of sunlight and they will reward you with blooms that last long and are easy to maintain. They can both be sown directly or started indoors and bloom round the year in areas with no frost. They require regular watering and are easy to propagate.

Cleome (Cleome hassleriana)

One of the easiest plants to grow from seeds, perhaps too easy, it also known as the spider flower. This annual flowering plant is an excellent self-seeder and comes back every year when the season is just right. The seeds can be sprinkled directly in pots or flowerbeds where they bloom from summer through early winter. Deadheading spent flowers promotes bloom time. They attract deter bad bugs that damage crops.

Coreopsis (Coreopsis tinctoria)

The sunny beauty of coreopsis is enough to light up any garden. A great perennial choice, it can be sown directly in the pots or flowering beds. Give it a well-drained soil and full sun to enjoy abundant blooms. To plant scatter the seeds evenly and cover them lightly as they need light to germinate and the key point is to keep the soil moist at all times. You can also propagate them through cuttings in spring and summers. Dead heading and pruning will, like all other flowering plants, result in more blooms.

Corn flower (Centaurea cyanus)

‘Weed is but an unloved plant’ has never been truer than in the case of the corn flower. Once considered a weed that grew in corn/maize fields, it is now an ornamental darling. Its bright blue colour brings that much needed contrast to any flower patch or arrangement and add to it its long shelf life and its ability to be dried for ornamental use and you have your self a winner. Grow them directly in loose soil and keep it moist while they germinate and establish roots. Dead head and prune frequently to promote blooming and enjoy the bees and butterflies they attract.

Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)

They are clouds of colour floating on slender stems. Hardy annuals that will flower almost through the year in areas that don’t see any frost, growing these is as easy as scattering the seeds in well-draining soils with medium moisture. These plants stay in bloom for months and thrive on near neglect, even in poor soil conditions. These hardy annuals also self-seeds to the point of being invasive.

Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila paniculata)

Look over your Pinterest boards or Instagram feeds for floral arrangements, you will notice the wispy clouds of white popularly known as baby’s breath. Also known as soapwort, it got its more common name of baby’s breath due to its gifting significance in baby showers. The seeds can be scattered directly In early spring in areas of sull sun with a well-draining soil. Water moderately, directly in the roots, to avoid root rot but do not let the soil stay dry for too long. Give it moderate fertiliser when the plants are establishing for abundant blooms later.

Pansy (Viola tricolor)

One of the most stunning wildflowers across the globe, pansies are cool season but short lived perennials that will fill your garden with an array of colours. Pansies can be sown directly and also started indoors and transferred when the seedlings have established themselves. Give them a rich and well-drained soil with partial or full sun. You can promote blooming by deadheading spent flowers.

These are some of the common winter flowers but the list is endless. With little effort they fill any garden with colours and scents that can never be replicated by man. Just remember to buy seeds from trusted sources for healthy plants and abundant blooms.

Start a flower garden, make yourself a cup of tea and sit and enjoy life as it was meant to be…amongst nature.

Happy gardening!

It is also a great season to start gardening from seeds and plan your garden to meet all your needs, both ornamental and food. In this blog we will take a very detailed look at the great variety of vegetables and flowers that winter has to offer, but the first order of things is to learn the nitty-gritties of gardening from seeds.

Seed gardening

Seeds are like little time capsules, biding their time to just spring up and add life where once there was none. The beauty of growing from seeds is the end-to-end control you have over the whole process from the growing medium to the end result and the numerous seeds you can harvest at the end. The joy of watching a seed grow and transform into something wonderous is not entirely elusive and all of us can make it happen with very little effort.

Gardening from seeds requires a good germinating medium, grow pots and a well-ventilated area with indirect light. The rest is as easy as growing a money plant! What follows are some of the well-kept and cherished secrets of the seed gardener wing of the plant parent club.

1. Always use good-quality organic seeds. Seeds generally have a shelf life, so look for trustworthy sources (Ugaoo) that sell you good seeds, or if you are using your own seeds use them every following season.
2. If you are germinating a vegetable of flowering shrubs it is better to use a grow pot/seedling tray for germination as it is easier to control the growing conditions. While it might seem like a hassle and an additional expense, it greatly increases the chances of success. For growing pots, you can use commonly available household items like egg cartons, and paper cups of mineral water bottles cut in half. The only requirement is that there are drainage holes at the bottom.
3. Use a light, well-draining medium for germinating your seeds. A light airy medium holds enough air in between the soil particles to increase the chances of a successful germination. They also support root growth as the tiny roots don’t have to struggle much to expand. While we can sit and wax eloquent about natures ability to flower in concrete cracks, I believe if we can make it easy, why not. Also, a loose rooting medium makes transplantation so much easier.
4. Never bury your seeds to deep. The general rule of thumb, if not specified, is to cover the seeds with a soil layer that is not more than twice the seed size. Nevertheless, there are some flower bulbs such as lilies and tulips that like to be buried deep.
5. While watering ensure that the soil covering the seed does not get dislodged. Use a misting spray and if you don’t have the apparatus, put the grow pot in a larger vessel filled with water so that it can absorb sufficient water through its drainage holes, or simply use a teaspoon for watering.
6. Never let the growing medium get dry. The idea is to maintain a constant level of moisture that is neither soggy not drying. Once the seeds start germinating and its protective layer cracks it needs constant moisture, if the soil dries up, the exposed seed shrivels and then dies.
7. Place your germinating setup in indirect light with plenty of ventilation. Germinating stations should never be setup in an area with direct sunlight, as harsh light can kill sprouts. The light should be bright for a major part of the day, a good parameter is that you should be able to read in that light with ease. The spot should be comparatively warmer with enough ventilation.
8. When planting flower seeds or seeds for leafy vegetables, plant them directly in the soil beds or planters you want them to grow but ensure the same growing condition, i.e. protection from direct light and rain and just enough water.
9. One cheat for successful germination is to cover the germinating setup with cardboard sheets the first couple of days to give them the warm humid environment necessary for quicker germination.

Now that we have talked about the basic but essential steps to seeds gardening, lets talk about the often looked over aspect – planning.

Planning

When starting a seasonal garden, whether summer or winter, always plan as per the calendar. First make a list of the plants you want to grow and then read up on the time it takes for them to flower or fruit. Seeds from trusted sources like Ugaoo provide a fairly accurate timeline for the growth and germination of their seeds.

Divide your growing space into areas as per the light requirements of the plants and ensure a sufficient supply of fertilisers and pesticides, organic for sure. If you are planning to grow creepers and vines then you would also need stakes and trellises to support the growth.

If you intend to take up gardening seriously, it is also a good idea to invest in a watering can or a garden hose for ease of watering. Also, get yourself some multifunctional hand tools for digging, raking, and weeding. While they might seem like an added expense, the good quality tools are literally a once-in-a-lifetime investment and help scale down the physical effort required for harvesting, pruning, and gardening in general by half.

Winter Vegetables in India

In contrast to a majority of the world, seventy percent of our meals comprise of plants and plant products and it is needless to highlight the myriad ways in which the humblest of vegetables are prepared in Indian cuisine. Some vegetables are more quintessentially Indian than the others, case in point karela and they are so easy to grow.

First things first, let’s set you up with the vegetable calendar for winters:

Now, assuming that you have set up your seeds for germination, its time to move on to setting up the vegetable beds or containers for the final stage.

Soil, Water, Fertiliser

What needs to be understood is that fruiting plants need more light, water, and nutrients than regular ornamental or flowering plants. It is these natural elements that get converted into the produce that we so dearly covet. So, the better the soil quality and natural sunlight, the better will be the product and the added nutrients and fertilisers boost this probability.

The soil needs to be rich in organic matter but light enough to not get waterlogged and soggy to prevent root rot. It needs to be a good mix of topsoil (approx. 55-60%), organic matter (approx. 30%), and soilless growing mix like coco peat or vermiculite (approx. 10%). If you are not confident about preparing your own soil mixes or sourcing reliable components, you can use ready-to-use mixes like organic veggie mix. Always ensure that your container or soil bed has ample drainage for extra water.

Once the saplings are transplanted to the bed after the advised time, they should be spaced adequately keeping in mind their size at full growth and planted as per their light requirements. Plants like beans, cucumbers, and tomatoes need proper support structure or arrangement for climbing vines. It is imperative to protect the newly planted saplings from direct rain to prevent them from getting washed away.

Watering also plays a very big role in the proper growth of plants and fruiting. Too much water and it will rot and too little water and it will either have stunted growth or shrivel. The simple science behind watering is that it should be done in proportion to the size of the plant and the light it is getting. The more the light the more is the water requirement, due to both higher evaporation rate and faster photosynthesis. Also, always water your plants, small or big, in a shower form with the help of either a garden hose or watering can. A single stream of water damages the soil bed and loosens the plant’s hold on it.

Every plant needs regular fertilisation and fruiting plants more so. Using organic fertilisers is a better choice for better healthier produce. Use good quality and reliable organic fertilisers from trusted sources. The frequency and the right time of fertilization is just as important as the quality of fertilizer. The plant needs fertilizer when it is planted, when it starts flowering, and also when it fruits. However, it might differ for some plants.

Some fruiting plants have singular male or female flowers and might need cross-pollination if there are no bees and butterflies to their rescue. It might seem like a daunting task but is in fact as easy as using cotton swabs/earbuds to transfer pollen from one flower to another, it can be a fun Sunday activity for kids.

Pest Control

While we may not like, rather detest, the idea of pests; it’s the truth. Where there is food in nature, there will be organisms that depend on it. The best way to safeguard your loved crops from pests is prevention. Just spray organic pest control solutions like Neem Oil or any other organic pesticide at regular intervals. Make sure that it is from a reliable source and truly organic because its for food that is to be consumed. The first spray should be done when the first true leaves appear. Make sure to spray on the underside of the leaves, that is where they hide and lay eggs. Also, using Neem bark powder (neem khali) in the potting mix is also a good idea. Once the plant has reached a good size, spray thoroughly and regularly every 15 days. Remember, prevention is better than struggling for cure later. Be vigilant!

Growing your own food is a joy like no other. It truly is farm to table and you grow what you want to eat, thus reducing food wastage to a large extent. It instils a sense of satisfaction and respect for the food we eat. It is a culture of sustainability that needs to be established both for the benefit of our kids and betterment of the world in general. Growing food in our homes is a very good way to utilise valuable real estate and reduce the carbon footprint due to food transport. It is a family tradition much like exchanging sweets on Diwali or playing with colours on Holi that needs to be established.

Watch out for the continuing blog on winter flowers.

Happy gardening!

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We have a natural affinity to nature that has been scientifically termed as biophilia – an innate affinity of human beings with the natural world. No well-designed space, personal or commercial, can be devoid of live plants and still achieve that balance that we seek in welcoming spaces. One should never underestimate the impact a live plant has on a space, there is an instant transformation. It immediately becomes more welcoming, bright, lively and there is a certain generosity that seeps in, the room puts you at ease.

Plants can be included in our homes in many ways and there is a plant suited for every home and every corner. There is no room or corners that a plant cannot uplift and all they need in return is a little bit of light, water, and love.

Let’s start at the doorways, one of the most neglected spaces in the urban setup. Most of us either rent or buy flats and have no say in lobby design or how the main door looks, but you can always make your entryway standout by adding plants by the door. Add plants that grow erect and show variegations to save space as well as create interest in your home. If your doorway receives sun or bright indirect light go with stunning tropical plants like ferns or calatheas and for darker spaces go for dracaenas, ZZs or bromeliads. Another great idea to add some visual appeal and fun to your entryway is to add hanging planters alongside the doorway with other hanging knick-knacks.

Beyond the doorway, plants can do so much for a home. They can break monotony, add life to corners, create nooks that are a personal oasis, glam up your décor and improve the overall air and sound quality of a home. Add tall arching plants next to your seating spaces for a canopy like effect and let the climbers loose on your window grills for both privacy and cleaner air. Plants can also function as room dividers and break up large spaces or create intimate corners with plant clusters around a reading chair – books, plants, coffee, what more can one need?

While floor plants have their own cult following, it’s the plants on shelves and tabletops that are the cherry on top. Add stunning sansevierias or syngonium to side tables or worktables, trailing plants to shelves, or succulents to windowsills and breathe life into them. Kitchens are great places to grow herbs, either on counter tops or in window planters. Make your own succulent arrangements or terrariums or repurpose those loved and chipped mugs and bowls into small planters. There is no space in a home that cannot have a plant – see an empty corner add a plant is a great decor mantra.

They don’t just up your décor game and turn four walls into welcoming spaces, they improve the space. Plants are stress busters; their mere presence improves mental health – a must for the life we lead today. They reduce sound pollution and better the air quality by absorbing a majority of the pollutants and producing clean air. From my personal experience they also regulate the room temperature and make the space more soothing.

We need plants, the world surely needs more plants and every one of them counts. Let’s make space for nature within our homes and turn this world greener one home at a time.

Think of the most stunning places you want to see in the world and think back to what they have in common – nature. Plants are global, we haven’t known a person who does not like a plant. A plant is more than just a decor piece in your home or garden, they are a living reminder of what is truly important for our survival – coexisting with nature. They are simple beings who give back more than they need. Their fuss-free existence, ease of growth, and the emotional connect they form help them win over anyone they are gifted to.

Plants – our first companions

If nature had one mantra, it would be abundance. There is a plant that is uniquely suited to every person, every home, and every situation. They respond to your love but never demand more than what they get, they make your home come alive, and stay quietly in the space they are given while giving you a sense of companionship and elevating the environment around you in ways that words cannot describe.

Plants have been our friends since before we or our ancestors knew or practised social relationships. Plants listen to you, share your music, tell stories of the times your home has seen, the celebrations and tough times are also a part of their memory, and they wait for you to give them that one minute in your day when you pour that glass of water to them and say cheers!

Plants as gifts

Plants are a gift of trust and hope. Trust that you have in the other person to care and a hope for better times. As gifts, they are eternal and beyond occasions and are a way to show that you value the people in your life. It’s time that this festive season we shift away from gifting that generic box of sweets or decorative pieces that become redundant and give gifts that grow through life and give back every day.

A healthy houseplant can be passed on through the family and can be multiplied to form a common thread that connects the people you love. They are proven to reduce stress and anxiety and improve life quality. They purify air, reduce sound pollution, and form an emotional connect that is simply a basic instinct or what is now coined as biophilia. Let’s admit it, nature speaks to us through plants.

The truth of the matter is that we all know the state our planet is in and we all feel for it deep down. While most of use cannot take to the streets to protest against climate change and carbon emissions, we certainly can add one more plant around us. These sentient beings are the answer to most of our crisis and its time we make space for nature and coexist with it within our homes.

Why Ugaoo?

At Ugaoo, we aim to instil a sense of calm and peace in this urban hustle by normalising plants in your living space. We understand the importance of delivering promises and we promise you a quality that is unparalleled in both plant quality and delivery. We are here for you every step of the way to shoulder all your difficulties and queries on this green journey that starts after your plants reach home.

We have plants that will be uniquely personal to anyone you wish to gift them to. You can select from our curated list of houseplants that are grown under expert supervision or our grow kits and seed range that helps you explore the joy of growing your own plant babies. All our gifting options come with the option to personalise them. We promise to deliver them for you across the country and happiness is guaranteed.

The plants can be placed on the windowsill and shelves, on plant stand, tiered tables, plant trolley, or planters. The permanent planters should have proper drainage. Various types of window boxes, fiberglass/pottery/iron boxes, cast cement and asbestos boxes, plastic/wooden boxes, etc. can be used for gardening. Plants are grown in good quality potting soil with rich compost.

Click here to buy window planters online in India.

Right Type of Plants for Window Gardening:

Window gardening is a timeless trend and with the rise in the number of high rises blocking skylight into urban homes, window gardening is making a comeback. Depending on the side your window is facing there is a plethora of plants that can find a place there. Window gardening is not only about having plants on the window sill but having them in hanging planters on curtain rods or on floor around the window area.

Plants are a great way to decorate window sills, whether thin or broad, with quirky planters and plants of varying plant shapes. Thin window ledges, that have other wise no use from a décor perspective can be converted into a greenspace with appropriately sized planters that stack together. If the window sill is broader, plant groupings can be created to achieve a desired look.

Window gardening does not only refer to placing plants on the inside of the window (inside homes) but also in window boxes outside homes. While there can still be a size restrictions of plant sizes on the inside, plants in window boxes have no such restrictions. The plant options for window boxes is also wider because of better light and growing conditions. Based on the direction of the windows, window boxes can have anything from foliage plants, flower beds, or vegetable gardens.

Plant Care for Window Plants

Plant care for window plants is not so different from any other plant care. The light on windows is different from any other indoor space, which affects the watering frequency. More light directly translates to better rate of photosynthesis that means higher water requirements. If the windows are openable then the air draft dries out the leaves quicker and they may require misting more frequently.

Plants vs Windows

When its time to decide what plant to place on which window, there are some basic rules to be followed. South and West facing windows are the best choice for sun loving plants, flowering and fruiting plants and also herbs. If your South and West facing window sills are narrow, then succulents are your best choice. North facing windows receive the least amount of sunlight and almost no direct light, making them the ideal direction for foliage plants like fern and Calathea that don’t like any direct sun. The east facing windows are great for the widest range of plants, other than fruiting plants. The east facing windows receive just the adequate amount of morning sun for a healthy garden space.

1. Plants for North Window:

• Aglaonema
• Araucaria
• Bromeliads
• Chlorophytum – Spider Plant
• Dieffenbachia
• Ferns
• Hedera
• Zebrina Pendula
• Perennial Balsam
• Monstera deliciosa
• Peperomia  
• Philodendron
• Sansevieria

2. Plants for the South or West Window:

• Acalypha
• Amaryllis lily
• Beloperone guttata
• Cactii & Succulents
• Chrysanthemum
• Lantana sellowiana
• Lilium longiflorum
• Geranium
• Poinsettia
• Coleus
• Cissus
• Miniature roses
• Dwarf bougainvillea
• Hibiscus grafts

3. Plants for East Window:

• Anthurium
• Caladium
• Dracaena
• Palms
• Pandanus
• Lemongrass
• Tulsi
• Jasmines (Mogra)
• Kari Patta (Curry leaves)
• Brahma Kamal (Epiphyllum)
• Green Chilli
• Basil
• Periwinkle
• Mint/Pudina

Plants varying widely in their water requirement should not be grown in the same window box. Cactus cannot be grown along with flowering annuals such as phlox which will need more frequent watering than the former. This problem can be overcome to some extent by growing plants in individual pots and later placing them in a box.

Further Reading: Top 5 Plants Grown in Indian Home Gardens!

Lets Ugaoo!

Try growing varieties that feature interesting textural foliage such as H.carnosa ‘Indian Rope’ or ‘Krimson Queen.’

Where to Grow Hoya at Home?

Thick waxy leaves on long trailing stems can be trained to grow up a structure or wires. When left to grow on its own, the Hoya plant will cascade over surfaces.

Hoya Flowers:

The plant features truly exquisite umbrella-shaped clusters of sweetly fragrant, porcelain star-shaped flowers. A combination of bright light and high humidity encourages flowering indoors. Buy flowering plants online in India.

Watering Hoya Plant:

In warmer months, water regularly, about every two weeks, keeping the soil moist but not wet. In winter, water every three weeks, allowing the soil to dry out for longer in between watering. Wrinkly leaves are an indication that its time to water. Read about tips on watering houseplants.

Light Conditions for Hoya Plant:

For optimal flowering indoors, choose a bright position, but not direct sun. Darker, green-leafed types rather than variegated ones adapt better to shaded or filtered light.

Fertilizer for Hoya Plant:

Apply slow-release fertilizer once every six months and liquid fertilizer every three weeks during warmer months to encourage faster, healthier growth.

Hoya Plant Propagation:

Hoyas are easy to grow from cuttings taken in spring and summer. Take stems 15-20 cms long with two or more leaves and place in a glass of water or a pot of moist potting mix. When roots form, pot the plant into a small container.

Remember that Hoyas don’t mind being root-bound. They will live happily in the same 12-cm pot for years, provided they are fed and watered adequately. When repotting, only upsize a few centimeters.

Maintaining the Hoya Plant:

Enjoy the gorgeous starry blooms, but do not cut-off spent flowers as Hoyas re-flower from the same spur every year.

Styling Hoya Plants Indoors:

Place Hoyas on high shelves and let them grow freely. Hoyas look phenomenal as hanging plants so track down interesting hanging planters from ugaoo.com and plant your hoyas in them.

Happy Gardening!

Reference: Gardening Australia (Magazine)

A part from this Office plants have a lot of benefits – they help in sharpening the focus, improve health and purify the air. A plant on your desk could remove up to 87% of toxins! The following blog elaborates on science-backed benefits of bringing these little magicians of nature indoors:

1. Increase Humidity

Plants release about 97% of the water they take in. Place several plants together, and you can increase the humidity of a room!

Studies at the Agricultural University of Norway document that using plants in the interior spaces decreases the incidence of dry skins, cold, sore throats, and dry cough. Read about importance of humidity in indoor gardening.

2. Purify the Air

Indoor air can be about 12 times more polluted than outside air in some of the areas, due to compounds in paints, furnishings, clothing and building materials.

Plants remove up to 87% of volatile organic compounds and other toxins every 24 hours, according to NASA research. VOCs include substances like formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethylene.

The NASA research discovered that plants purify the trapped air by pulling contaminants into the soil, where they convert VOCs into plant food. Buy air purifying plants online.

3. Promote Health

Indoor Air Quality is a health concern, particularly in India where people may spend up to 90% of their time indoors. In a study by the Agricultural University of Norway, sickness rates fell by more than 60% in offices with plants.

4. Boost Productivity

Extensive research conducted by the Royal College of Agriculture in England revealed that the students demonstrate 70% greener attentiveness when they’re taught in rooms containing plants.

Texas A&M University conducted a study and found that employees in a room with a minimum of two potted plants and a bouquet of colorful flowers generated 13% more creative and inspiring ideas than the ones with sculptures and showpieces.

When choosing a plant for your workspace keep the following things in mind:

1. The plant should suit the area.
2. Avoid high-maintenance plant.
3. Do not bring the ones that grow quickly or need abundant sunlight.
4. Determine light levels and office space.
5. In a windowless office opt for fluorescent lights.

To bring a perfect plant in your office, check our list of 13 popular office plants below. They are divided into three categories: best for improving air quality, low lighting needs and easy maintenance.

1. Plants for purifying the air:

1.1 Rubber Tree Plant:

Water the Rubber Plant enough to keep the soil moist. When the plant is in its dormant stage, water it once or twice a month only. If the leaves begin to turn yellow, reduce the water supply. If the leaves start to fall, water more.

Place the plant in bright, indirect sunlight, preferably near a window with sheer curtains.

1.2 English Ivy:

This evergreen climbing vine needs moist soil. Once established, it can tolerate dry conditions too. Place it in the shade. Buy english ivy online.

1.3 Aloe Vera:

Plant Aloe in a wide container with the well-draining potting mix to prevent it from rotting. Keep the soil on a dry side and water minimal during winters. Place Aloe Vera in full sun.

1.4 Bamboo Palm:

These plants tolerate low light conditions, but grow pretty tall with more light. If your plant is healthy, it will show dark green leaves. But if the leaves begin to wilt or turn brown, modify your watering schedule. Use filtered water, at room temperature and water only when the soil surface is completely dry. Check if the water is draining properly. Place the plant in Indirect to low light.

2. Plants that tolerate low light conditions:

2.1 Peace Lily

This vigorous plant prefers moist soil, but it’s best to avoid overwatering. If the peace lily plant is not flowering, move the plant to a darker room. In case of excessive light, the peace lily plant will show brown leaf tips. Place your Peace Lily plant in the shade.

2.2 Parlor Palm:

Parlor Palm prefers scarce water supply. Check the soil surface before watering. Place the Parlor Palm in bright, indirect light in the early morning or late afternoon.

2.3 Snake Plant:

Since Snake Plants can rot easily, place them in well-draining soil. To prevent them from rotting, avoid overwatering especially in winters. Place your Snake Plant in indirect to low sunlight.

2.4 Boston Fern:

These thrive well in high humid conditions, hence mist them regularly. Remember that the soil requires constant moisture. Dry soil causes Boston Ferns to die. Increase humidity if the leaves begin to turn yellow. Place Boston Fern in indirect sunlight. Buy fern varieties: Green Fern Mini, Fern Morpankhi, Fern Emina.

3. Low maintenance plants:

3.1 Chinese Evergreen

The plant prefers warm temperature and low humidity but tolerates less ideal environment too. Chinese Evergreen plants enjoy moderate watering. Place the Chinese Evergreen plant in low to indirect light.

3.2 Philodendron

Water these plants even if the topsoil appears a little dry. Droopy leaves indicate inadequate water conditions. Pale new leaves indicate insufficient nutrition, hence feed the plant with fertilizer during spring and summer. Place the Philodendron plant in bright, indirect sunlight. Buy philodendron broken heart online.

3.4 ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas)

In case there are no or minimal windows in your office, ZZ plants are ideal as they can survive in artificial light. Water them only when the soil surface appears dry. Overwatering will kill the plant. If the plant leaves, curve, lean or turn yellow it is an indication that the light is more than needed. Place the ZZ Plant in bright to moderate indirect light.

3.5 Jade Plant

Jade plants need to be watered only when the soil surface appears completely dry. In case the plant leaves shed or turn brown, water more frequently. Place your Jade Plant in moderate light. Buy crassula ovata jade plant.

3.6 Areca Palm

These plants need specific lighting conditions. If place in the direct light, the leaves might turn yellow. Maintain soil moisture in spring and summer, and allow it to dry in fall and winter. Report every 2-3 years to get rid of soil deposits. Place Areca Palm in bright, indirect light.

Sources:
Gardeningknowhow.com
Bayeradvanced.com
Healthline.com
Ambius.com

The Material Used for Tubs and Urns:

• A variety of materials are available which can be used as tubs or urns.
• The tub or the jar can be made of timber or preferably of brick, concrete or carved out of stone.
• Metal ornamental urns look beautiful in the terrace, near the staircase, or even inside the house. Tubs and urns of different shapes and designs can be made from fine grade concrete.
• Wooden tubs are best suited for the hot sunny position. Rot resistance woods, i.e., teak, oak, and poplar are best suited for this purpose. In addition to this rot-resistant woods should be treated with rot-resistant chemicals, i.e., Cuprinol.
• Wooden or cement tubs are painted to match with the color of the house.
• All tubs should stand on their leg or should be placed over bricks for easy drainage. Each tub or urn should have one or more drainage holes.
• The primary criterion in selecting the tub is to ensure that it holds sufficient amount of soil and have provision for proper drainage; though a container without drainage hole is useful if sufficient drainage material such as gravel is put at the bottom and overwatering is avoided.

Growing Plants in Tubs and Urns:

• Potting soil: The potting mixture generally used for regular pots can be used for tubs or urns.
• Manuring: The tub plants need frequent manuring, and it is advisable to feed them with liquid manure every fortnight or so depending upon the type of plant. Besides this, each tub has to be top dressed with fresh compost every six months or once a year. This is done by scrapping out 7-15 cm of the used topsoil and replacing this with new compost.

Click here to buy high-quality soil and manure online in India.

• Replanting/ repotting: All plants in tubs or urns need to be replanted every two or three years to replenish plant food. In India, under tropical climate, repotting should be done during the rainy season. But in a milder climate like that of Bangalore and Pune, this can be extended till December or January. Repotting should be avoided during summer.
• Watering: Frequency of watering depends on the weather, type of plant and size of the tub. Plants like Bougainvillea and Jasmine need dry conditions at the time of flowering.

Plants Suitable for Tubs and Urns:

• Annuals: African marigold, chrysanthemum, sunflower, hollyhock and so on.
• Bulbous plants: Canna, Bird of paradise, and Datura.
• Foliage plants: Fatsia, Aralia, Dracaena, Yucca and so on.
• Shrubs: Hibiscus, Oleander, Lantana, Camellia, Azalea, and Bougainvillea.
• Ferns: Boston fern, Bird’s nest, Nephrolepis and so on
• Palms: Most of the ornamental palms.
• Trees: Araucaria cookii, Brassia actinophylla and so on.
• Topiary: Tubs offer an excellent opportunity for exhibiting topiary and espaliering work.

Further Reading: This Is How You Can Do Topiary Gardening!

Lets Ugaoo!

The trick to caring for houseplants isn’t mysterious. It’s really about being able to approximate their native environments well enough to keep them happy. Since houseplants are already well suited to human living spaces, most of the hard work is already done for you.

Image Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexfiles/2523169790/

Why You Have Probably Killed Plants in the Past?

Plants that fail to thrive are usually getting too much or too little water, light or both. Improper watering and the wrong light conditions are the two biggest killers of houseplants. Whether you are thinking about buying your first houseplant, or have had failures in the past, applying good water and light strategies to the way you care for your plants will make an enormous difference in your ability to keep them healthy.

1. Houseplants and Light:

Without the right light, plants can’t make use of the other nutrients we give them. This doesn’t mean that more light is always better. Plants have adapted to certain specific light conditions and they need the same type of light in order to do well. Understanding what light they need, and finding or making the right light for them, is one of the most important things you can do to keep houseplants healthy.

2. Watering Houseplants:

Plants need different amount of water during different times of the year and at different points in their life cycle. This makes it necessary to change your watering tactics once in a while. Don’t assume your plant needs two cups of water every Monday because that strategy doesn’t always work. Sticking your finger into the dirt around your houseplant is a great way to see if it’s dry and needs water, but it’s also important to observe a plant over time so you will notice any changes in its appearance or water consumption. Read about 20 essential tips on watering houseplants.

Image Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/sallypics/216883161/

3. Humidity:

Tropical plants sometimes need more humidity than our homes can provide, especially in winter. Making an effort to keep plants together where they can help create humidity for one another, and keeping a couple of trays filled with pebbles and water nearby, can help to offset the effects of low humidity. Misting with a spray bottle filled with water can help too. Read about Importance of humidity in indoor gardening.

4. Temperature:

Indoor environments, like homes and offices, are usually good, temperate climates for houseplants. The exceptions to this rule are indoor areas near poorly insulated windows, heating vents and exterior doors that can be drafty, or have unstable temperatures. Houseplants like constant temperatures, and any spot that gets very hot or cold, or changes temperature rapidly, is a bad place for a houseplant.

5. Soil and Fertilizer:

Houseplant soil is important, but the soil that’s in a plant’s pot when you buy it will probably be fine for a few months. It will also have enough of the right nutrients to take care of the plant for the settling in period. When you do need to repot or fertilize your houseplant, there are many prepared mixtures that can take the guesswork out of selecting the right combination of ingredients to keep your plant happy. Buy soil & manure online in India.

Image Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/fchungcw/4945351054/

Learning More About Plants:

There are lots of sources for good plant information in print and on the Web. Most will tell you the light, water, humidity, temperature and soil needs of specific plants. Reading plant profiles is a good way to discover which plants will do well in the spot you have in mind for them.

While you are learning the basics of caring for houseplants, you should explore some great easy-care plants. These beginner varieties tolerate a wide range of light and water conditions and can bounce back from most of the early mistakes you might make. Try pothos (Epipremnum aureum), snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) or spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) to start.

Asian-American Theme Gardens contain stir-fry type plants introduced to the United States by Asians.

Ugaoo tip: While using fresh greens as salad mixes, use leaves that exude mild flavors like the lettuce or endive. Use sharp or pungent leaves such as basil, coriander, parsley, and mustards only as an accent.

Image Source: https://photos.hgtv.com

Steps to Planning a Theme Garden

1. Determine the type of theme garden you would like. Here, we want an Asian American Garden.
2. Determine the location and size of the garden. Choose an area that receives at least 6-hours of full sunlight daily and is close to a water source.
3. Test your soil.
4. Amend the soil accordingly. Use a tiller, work in a 3-inch layer of organic matter (peat moss, organic manure, rotted compost, etc.) to improve the soil structure.
5. The shape of your garden can be a 4’x4’ square area or whatever fits into your landscape scheme!

Image Source: https://www.diynetwork.com

Select plants from the list of recommended varieties:

Grow warm-season vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and herbs.
Weed, water, fertilize and harvest on a weekly basis throughout the growing season.
Enjoy abundant of fresh vegetables and herbs.

Recommended Plants:
Pak Choi: A traditional stir-fry veggie. Separate the leaves from stem and chop into 2-inch wide diagonal chunks. Tastes good when used raw in salads.
Red Mustard: Mix tender Red Mustard leaves with other salad greens or sprinkle flowers on sandwiches.
Snap Peas: Plant early in spring when temperatures are cold. Harvest daily.
‘Thai’ Basil: The herb exudes warm spicy flavor and is native of Africa and Asia. Pick leaves when young for best taste.
Mizspoona: Use this herb to add a spicy bite to salads or stir-fry dishes.
Others: Asian red kale,  radish, mizuna, eggplant, coriander, fresh endive, and various lettuce varieties.

Reference: Agricultural Extension Service The University of Tennessee

Let’s have a look at various ways by which you can do tabletop gardening:

1. Terrarium:

Growing live plants inside a glass enclosure is called a terrarium. In terrariums, you can mimic natural landscape or a landscape garden in a glass bowl. Even an unused aquarium fish tank can be converted into a terrarium.

Styles and themes of terrarium:

• Oriental terrarium
• Sand art terrarium
• Beach design
• Desert theme
• Carnivorous (plants) terrarium

Plants suitable for the terrarium: Earth star, Haworthia, Ferns, Fittonia, Hypoestes.

Read More About DIY Beautiful Terrariums.

2. Bottle Garden:

This is a type of closed terrarium where glass enclosure is a bottle with a narrow opening. In bottle garden humidity loving, indoor miniature plants can be grown. Once successfully made, the bottle garden does not need any watering and maintenance. Bottle garden can be made in any bottle with transparent, thick, smooth and textureless glass without any coating.  

Plants suitable for bottle garden: Mini Syngonium, Peperomia, Baby’s tear.

Read More About: Bottle Garden- Myth or Truth!

3. Dish Garden:

Plants can be grown on a shallow ornamental dish. Usually, a ceramic dish is used to make a dish garden, but a dish made up of any other material can also be taken. There is no need to make any drainage holes on dish garden as it is supposed to be placed on the indoor tabletop where there is no scope for water dripping & out.

The base assembly for dish garden is similar to that of terrarium; however, much larger plants can be used in dish garden and their ore surface area available for decoration.

Plants suitable for dish garden: Spathiphyllum, Anthurium, Aralia, Crassula mini

Image Source: https://www.sweetcouch.com

4. Tray landscape:

While the dish garden is confined to a small dish, a tray landscape covers the much larger area, and there is more scope for making theme based development.

Tray landscape can be made in conventional trays or specialized landscaping trays that have custom design molds. Tray landscape can be made on a temporary basis during special events, festivals or exhibitions. Apart from miniature plants, there is more focus on decorative material like stones, sculptures, and pebbles as well.

Plants suitable for tray landscape: Chlorophytum, Rhoeo, Kalanchoe.

Read More About Miniature Gardening!

Essential Tips for Tabletop Gardening:

• The table spot you select should be a bright location getting indirect sunlight, preferably near a window.
• The containers selected for tabletop gardening should not have any drainage holes in the bottom.
• The tabletop garden is watered by misting the pants and soil by hand sprayer only. Water is sprayed and not showered by watering can or hose pipe.
• Plants in a tabletop garden should be primarily protected from fungal infection.
• Good old lucky bamboo always works when there is no scope for even tabletop gardening.

Read about Top 10 Miniature Plants in India.

Happy Gardening!

Growing a perfect vegetable garden with plump tomatoes and perky peas – is tough enough. Now imagine an environment where there’s no night or day, where seeds and soil float off into the air, and where water poots in weird ways rather than flowing freely. The challenges of growing plants in space are such that one wonders whether there’s any point to it at all.

Benefits of Gardening in Space

But far from being an outlandish idea, space gardening is a flourishing area of scientific research with many benefits for us here on Earth. In recent years, scientists have discovered that more than 100 plant varieties – from cabbages to tulips-could grow well in space.

Since 2010, astronauts on the international space station have even been tending their space gardens. They are now eating their hand-grown lettuces, albeit in tiny portions, and have managed to get zinnias to flower in zero gravity. The pros of astronauts are clear: they get fresh food and activity that helps them stave off space-related boredom.

Image Source: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/

But what’s in for us mere Earth-dwellers?

As it turns out, cultivating crops in outer space can teach us a lot about growing plants more efficiently. One technology that has come from space farming is a sensor that ‘texts’ the gardener – whichever orbit they are in – when the plant needs watering. Another device that removes nasty gases – such as ethylene – from space gardens is now used to keep food fresh in supermarkets, factories, and restaurants.

Image Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/

The future

In the longer term, by 2050, we will need to produce 70% more food to feed the nine billion humans living on Earth. That might well require more land than our won planet can provide. And if we’re ever going to make it to Mars, it would be nice to think that we’d have some fresh food upon arrival.

Growing plants in space have its own set of challenges too. But it is surprising to discover that plants are grown in zero gravity for weeks or months acclimatize and can flower and seed usually.

Thus, it might be too early to determine the benefits of growing plants in space for the ones living on Earth, but it will help us discover new techniques that would prove beneficial for gardening. Read about Gardening as therapeutic and healing activity.

Image Source: https://www.nextnature.net

Reference: Gardening Australia (Magazine)

Studies have revealed that 60% of the calories are from highly processed food products. We all know that the processed foods are no good for our health but have you thought about how they impact our relationship with what we eat?

Imagine what all could change for you if you practiced the mindfulness skills we practice in yoga to the dinner table or the grocery store.

Most unwanted food habits are built unconsciously. The times we are truly present and aware, we avoid overeating, processed and unethically sourced foods.

As we are more attentive towards what we eat,  we inevitably increase our health and the health of our environment.

Yoga reveals the power of awareness. Yoga asks us to slow down to observe. Awareness can cure. Consciousness connects us to our inner knowing. Eating with awareness (or eating mindfully), not only impacts what and how we eat but how we ingest. Read about yoga loving plants.

Not many of us know the connection between the nervous system and digestive system. When we are relaxed and in a mindful state, we turn on our rest and digestive state. Only in this state the body appropriately and efficiently pulls nutrients from the food we intake.

When we eat in a rush or in a state of stress because, we say we are reading emails or completing an assignment, our blood moves away from the digestive tract. How will the body focus on digestion when it believes it is in a stressful situation? Believe me that our nervous system is like a light switch; one cannot be both mindful and stressed at once.

So, for many reasons, bringing your yoga practice to the dinner table has enormous advantages.

All good relationships nurture over time and with understanding – your relationship with food is the same. The more you connect with the food, the more body appreciates it. Understanding the efforts it takes to get that boring looking salad from the dirt to your plate can help you savor each bite with gratitude. It advisable that you strive to transform your eating experience into a ritual of pleasure.

Below are ways to deepen your connection with food:

1.  Head to a local farmers’ market and meet the hard-working farmers who plant those seeds. Buy seeds online in India.
2. Get into the kitchen and cook. Make cooking an expression of creativity because the more we interact, the more we connect and respect.
3. The oldest and the best ways to grow your connection to food is to get down and get dirty, in the dirt. GARDENING. Research reveals that gardening alone can lead to incredible health benefits, like decreasing dementia, boosting mood, decreasing stress and help with sleeping habits. With too many potential benefits to list, a home garden is a no-brainer.

These are a few tips to get you into the dirt this season and grow that connection to food:

1. Start Small: Start with one veggie or herb. Pick something you enjoy. Plant in a place you will remember to water. Notice the satisfaction you get when eating this homegrown treat. Buy herb seeds online in India.
2. You can purchase small plants: Starting from seed can be amazing, and it opens the door to more varieties, but it’s significantly more involved. Consider bringing home baby plants.
3. Think light, soil, and water: Since the soil should be nutritious, enrich it with compost. Place your new green friend in 6 hours of daytime sun. Set a watering schedule. Buy composter online.
4. Make a raised bed: Raised bed gardening allows you to control the soil and nutrient blend. Make your raised bed not more than 4 feet wide.
5. Have fun and practice regularly: Bring in the spirit of playfulness and an open mind to your gardening practice. Connect to nature and, just like yoga, let it be about experiencing versus accomplishing.

Reference: CO YOGA + Life® Magazine | Summer/Fall 2018

– William Shakespeare

Nature knows best how to comfort our soul and make us feel at home. Within it, we find the purpose of life and how to be our own sunshine. Imagine bringing nature into your home? The very idea sounds so fascinating that makes you feel at ease with a balanced mind to absorb the calmness. There cannot be anything better than blending the interiors of your house with the natural world. It will completely transform the way how your space looks and fill it with extreme freshness and positive energy.

Let’s have a look at some interesting ways in which you can bring nature to your home and enhance its charm:

1. Add Indoor Plants

Adding fresh and green indoor plants is one of the best and obvious ways to welcome nature to your home. You can start by putting gorgeous plants in every room of the house. Choose the plants that do not require direct sunlight and keep them at the appropriate location to support their healthy growth. Keeping great-smelling plants in the bedroom is also known to keep depression, anxiety, and anger at a bay while offering a good night sleep.

Where To Keep- You can decorate your bedroom and study room with lush green indoor plants that help improve memory, concentration, and sleeping pattern.

2. Make an Herb Garden

Apart from adding flavor to the dishes, herbs are known to have several health benefits as well. You can try and make an herb garden in your kitchen by placing herbs like basil, thyme, coriander, mint, etc. in small pots. They will smell great, fill your house with the right amount of greenery, and allow to enjoy tasty fresh herbs at your dinner table.

Where To Keep- You can grow fresh and healthy herb garden in your kitchen or balcony and use the herbs to add flavor to your food.

3. Build a Terrarium

A terrarium is a collection of small, decorative plants grown in a transparent vessel. Building a terrarium in your home offers a great chance to be as creative as you can. To get started, you need a glass vessel, pint-sized green plants of your choice, small pebbles, potting soil, activated charcoal, and a few gardening tools. Once you have everything you need, let your imagination flow and great a tiny green, healthy world. The terrariums are quite low maintenance, which means higher benefits with low investment.

Where To Keep- Place a gorgeous looking terrarium in your living space to adorn its beauty and create a welcoming atmosphere for the guests.

4. Decorate With Flowers

Nothing brightens up the day like fresh and great-smelling flowers. Sitting beautifully in a vase, they fill your world with immense beauty and happiness in the best manner possible. Bring them home and place in every room of the house to add some life and colors to your interior space. They serve the great purpose of bringing in natural positive vibes while decorating your abode exquisitely like never before.

Where to Keep- Be it your bedroom, living room, kitchen or study area, flowers are excellent to fill them with beauty, fragrance, and positive energy.

5. Create a Dish Garden

Don’t worry if you cannot afford an outdoor garden, the beautifully created dish garden in your home will do equal wonders. Quite simple to put together, you can start by selecting the appropriate area in your house where you want to place the dish garden. Pick a dish, layer it with sand and small pebbles, add pot mixture, and plant the dwarf plants. Afterward, you can add the decorative items of your choice, like shells, stones, figurines, etc. Moisten your dish garden with water and place it under bright but indirect sunlight. Every look at that beautiful creation of yours will make your heart and soul dance with joy.

Where To Keep- The beautiful dish gardens can be kept at the entrance of the house or at the reception in offices to create a calm and soothing environment.

Applying the great ideas mentioned above will make your home feels relaxing and fill it with natural greenery in abundance.

Let’s have a look at all the benefits that microgreens have to offer:

1. Superfoods

Microgreens are superfoods, loaded with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. These little green plants posses more nutrients than regular leafy vegetables. When microgreens are part of your daily diet, the health benefits will be evident. After heavy calorie intake in holidays or festivals, the fastest way to detox yourself is by growing and consuming microgreen vegetables.

2. Fastest Harvest

Microgreens produce the quickest edible plant harvest ever. Micro-methi can be harvested 8-10 days after seed sowing. Other microgreen leafies like spinach, Amaranth, Mustard are also collected within 10-12 days of planting. Therefore microgreens are best suited for a fast-paced urban lifestyle.

Click Here to Buy Microgreen Vegetable Seeds Online in India.

3. Less Sunlight

Unlike conventional kitchen garden plants like fruiting vegetables, microgreens require less sunlight. Only 2-3 hours of direct sunlight is enough to start microgreen farming. Therefore, these can be effortlessly grown in the urban home gardens.

4. Window Farming

With less sunlight requirement, microgreens are perfect for window farming in city apartments. Microgreens can be grown in compact places, and your regular supply of greens can be obtained from window-sills of the average sized house. You don’t need a terrace or spacious balcony to grow microgreens.

5. Joy of Gardening

Since microgreens are so rewarding in a quick time, they become favorites of hardcore gardeners and amateurs alike. The fun gardening activities like sowing, watering, harvesting are very satisfying when it comes to growing microgreens. Microgreen gardening is also a therapeutic activity due to its engaging nature. Read about 20 essential tips on watering your houseplants.

6. Soilless Gardening

To grow microgreens, the soil is not compulsory, hence you don’t have to worry about the muddy situation. Microgreens show best results when grown in cocopeat based growing medium along with compost/ vermicompost/ peat moss/ leaf mould etc. In aquaponic systems, microgreens can be produced directly in water.

7. Best Salad

Microgreens are not supposed to be cooked and should be consumed raw and fresh to obtain all the health benefits from it. This makes it the best salad material, with a little bit of stir-frying, or just eating it with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.

8. Decorative Garnishing

Microgreens are commercially used for garnishing the dishes of various cuisines in restaurants. The dark green of kale, pale green mustard, dark red of Amaranth etc. provide multiple color combinations for food decorations and pretty looking salads.

9. Children Love It

Children refusing to eat leafy vegetables is an age old problem that all parents face. This is where microgreens come to the rescue. Microgreens can be used to raise children’s curiosity and can be cleverly included in their favorite snacks like burger, sandwiches, pizza and pasta. Children can also be encouraged to grow their food through microgreen farming projects.

10. Micro-Roots

Well it’s not just leafy greens; one can also grow micro-roots. The rooting vegetables like carrot, beetroot, radish, turnip etc. can also be produced in microforms. Point to be noted here is that all leaves of micro-roots are also edible, therefore entire plant should be harvested at the right time. Micro-roots look cute and are tasty too.

Read More About ‘Growing Microgreens at Home: the Superfoods’

Lets Ugaoo!

Troubled after fighting all his myths, ifs and buts, he thought of talking directly to Ganesha and finding his answers. He sat for meditation, and after chanting for some time, he saw Tree Ganesha. He paid tribute to the Lord and asked Tree Ganesha –

Devotee: Ganesha, I have been celebrating Ganesh Chaturthi since my childhood. I bring your idol at home and after ten days submerge it in water. But, with all the eco-friendly concept emerging, I am a little confused.

Ganesha smiled. He dusted off the mud on his trunk, and after Dattadri placed seeds from Ugaoo in his stomach, Ganesha said:

Tree Ganesha: Look, I love the festival as much as you do. The way my devotees welcome me and bid farewell leaves me speechless. But, have you ever thought what happens once you leave my idols submerged in water with flowers and all the accessories? I lie beheaded for days, polluting the water, killing my beautiful fishes. My statues choke up places, and it takes years for the non-degradable idols to dissolve. By then the damage is done. Read about Are you a responsible Ganesha Devotee?

Devotee: But Ganesha isn’t it a bad sign, not submerging your idol?

Tree Ganesha: Who said? In which Granth have I mentioned this? The festival was celebrated to commemorate my birthday, unite people of different communities and bring together everyone in the society. Would you like to be submerged in water after a grand celebration?

Devotee felt choked at the thought. He cleared his throat and continued.

Devotee: The what should we do? Should we bring home idols that grow into plants and trees? In that case, what if I fail to take care of you as the plant?

Tree Ganesha: My dear devotee, you will never fail. My idol is made of soil and filled with seeds from Ugaoo. You need to keep watering it, and soon it will thrive into a plant. I would take the form of a beautiful green tree and stay with you forever.

Devotee felt elated at the thought of growing old with Ganesha and said.

Devotee: But Ganesha, I have never practiced gardening.

Tree Ganesha: Tell me something, when you were born you did not know to walk, talk and run. You learned it gradually. At times, you looked at people and tried to follow them, and at times the elderly taught you. From parents at home to teachers at school everybody contributed immensely. Didn’t you learn? Gardening is no different! You could refer to Ugaoo.com, the greenest online portal and learn all the nuances of gardening.

Devotee: Amazing! One more thing, where can I book my Tree Ganesha?

Tree Ganesha: You can book one from Ugaoo.com or treeganesha.com. If you are in Pune, you could pick your idol from Ugaoo’s office.

Devotee: Thank you, God! What else should I do this Chaturthi so that you are happy?

Tree Ganesha: Well, keep the celebrations eco-friendly. Do not harm the environment in any way. I am coming on 13th September to be with you. So, mellow down the loudspeakers, do not use thermocol decorations and keep it simple. It is only with less noise around; I will be able to hear you. Tathastu!

Devotee opened his eyes and promised to celebrate Ganesh Chaturthi in a responsible way altogether!

Let’s have a look at top garden features that can beautify your residential society:

1. Hedges

These are outermost boundary/ fencing plantations of garden that will separate your society garden from outside world. Along with a hard civil fencing, a live fence can be made.

The plants selected for hedges should be perennial with Bushy/shrub habit.
Hardy plants with uniform, multiple branching, and dense, evergreen foliage are selected for creating a screen effect. Plants also should be capable of withstanding regular pruning & trimming. Eg. Ficus benjamina, Clerodendron, Mehndi, Murraya etc.

You may want to read more about top 10 hedge plants in India for live fencing.

2. Edges

These are internal borders of garden that will delineate different garden features from one another. Eg. Border plantations along the internal pathways of garden. Edges are much shorter than hedges.

Edge plants are perennial dwarf shrubs or bushes with desne, ornamental foliage. The foliage should be suitable for pruning & trimming. Buy pruning tools online in India.

Read more about Edging plants for garden

3. Ground covers

This is ornamental plantation done on the ground to cover the unused, empty open areas of society garden. One is not supposed to step on the ground cover plantations.

Perennial dwarf plants like trailers, creepers, grasses with rosette, or spreading habit are selected. The plants may have ornamental foliage or flowering. Plants that require least maintenance are selected for ground covers. Eg. Weddelia, Ipomoea batatas, Ribbon grass. Know about 7 beautiful ground cover plants for garden walkways.

4. Flower beds

The most exciting feature in your garden, these are beautiful mats of variously and vividly colored flowers in open sunny location of your garden.

To make perfect flower beds, seasonal (annual) flowering plants are grown. These are all herbaceous sun loving plants grown by  planting seeds or bulbs.

Further reading:

10 tips to develop beautiful flower beds.

How to develop color scheme in flower beds!

5. Lawn

A lush green lawn completes your garden. In your society, a nice lawn can be an activity area for playing, relaxing, conducting events, cultural programs and so on. Preferably a lawn should be made in a big open spot.

Read more about How to create a perfect lawn!

6. Arches

Arches are the ornamental entry points of your garden or any internal garden feature of your society. Arches can be made up of wood or metal. Arches look wonderful when climbers are allowed to grow on them.

Perennial flowering climbers, twiners Creepers like Bougainvillea, Ipomoea, Rangoon creeper etc. are grown on Arches.

7. Pergola

This is another exciting feature where series of arches are placed together to develop a tunnel like structure on one of the garden pathways. Pergola becomes an outdoor shed when climbers are allowed to grow on it & eventually completely cover the roof.

Plants used for pergolas are the same that are used for arches.

Read more about top 10 flowering climbers for an Indian garden.

8. Shrubbery

These are the spots of your garden where you can plant plenty of flowering shrubs, foliage shrubs and bushes. Flowers required for pooja rituals can be grown here. Even small trees can be grown in shrubberies. Shrubberies are also useful in hiding ugly outdoor structures like toilets, storerooms, pumping house etc.

Plants for shrubberies: Roses, Hibiscus, Acalypha, Nerium, Tecoma etc.

You may want to read more on how to take care of flowering shrubs.

9. Pathway trees

Small trees can be repeated in a line along the internal pathways of your society garden. These trees give that pathway a legitimate look; as the interconnected internal pathways of your society garden are used to reach various garden features. Small trees are also planted along a jogging paths.

Ideal pathway trees: Pisonia, Areca palms, Golden bamboo, Plumeria. Etc.

Further reading: 10 beautiful small flowering trees for your garden.

10. Avenue trees

Avenue is a broad road in your society that starts from main gate to the parking area. Avenues typically have trees at regular intervals along its sides. These trees are big sized with spreading canopy, either evergreen or blooming types. Avenue trees will give your society a grand look and real greenery that can transform the environment of your residential complex.

Further reading:

Top 10 shade giving trees in India

Top 10 beautiful flowering trees of India

Bio Aesthetic planning

Lets Ugaoo!

Our planters are not only a piece of art, but are equally functional, as they come with drainage holes. An ideal companion to these planters are our range of live plants; and if you wish to grow something of your choice – pick up seeds, soil manure and a lot more.

To get started, bring all your pots and plants together and let’s get started with grouping them.

If isolated pots seem to lack impact, try grouping them – the mutual support they lend each other gives them a strength that they lack individually. If the containers are rather plain, placing smaller ones in front will mask those behind and bring the display almost to ground level.

Groups in the Porch:

Make a bold display in a porch by using tall plants, especially evergreen shrubs, at the back and smaller flowering plants in front.

If space is limited, instead of going for a lush effect with lots of foliage and flowers, concentrate on the containers rather than the plants. Decorative pots are often available as matching sets. Grouping these looks good even if the plants they contain are only mediocre.

Groups in Corners:

Difficult corners are an ideal place in which to use containers to create colour, filling in a spare piece of ground where nothing much seems to do well. Patios usually have corners that would otherwise remain unused. Group shrubs or tall houseplants at the back and unusual summer bedding plants in front, along with bright-leaved indoor plants for the warmest months.

Alternatively, choose a small group of elegant containers and use the plants in a more restrained way.

A trailer growing from a pedestal container with a cluster of distinctive small pots around the base can be as eye-catching as a large group.

In a round corner, perhaps formed where two wooden fences join, or where house joins fence in a sunless position, try making a bed of small-sized gravel on which to place a group of terracotta pots.

Red gravel will help to bring colour. Fill the pots with bright annuals for the summer, and winter-flowering pansies and bulbs for winter and spring. Try spacing the pots out and adding a few interesting pieces of rock among them.

Groups on the Lawn:

Clusters of pots are an ideal means of breaking up a vast expanse of lawn. Don’t stand them directly on the grass, but use a bed of sand or gravel- this will stand out well from the grass, and make mowing around the containers easier. Read about How to maintain a lawn. 

Once done, dust off your hands and to share the images of grouped pots and plants. We would love to showcase your ideas on our Instagram and Facebook pages.

You may want to read more about, ‘What is the texture of your garden plants?’

Happy Gardening!

Reference: Practical Gardening by Peter McHoy

Because very little can be done to alter this sort of garden structurally, it is best to direct any efforts towards improving the environment and devising a strategy that helps plants survive, or at least ensure lots of lush-looking plants to flourish despite the handicaps.

Wish to create a lovely balcony garden or paint your veranda green? Read Creating Gardens on Balconies and Verandas here.

Not all the techniques discussed here will apply to your garden, but most of them can be adapted to suit even the most unpromising site.

1. Using Lighting

Garden lights can extend the hours of enjoyment you derive from your garden, and you don’t need many of them for a lot of impact in a small area. You can illuminate most of the space-useful if you often relax in the evening – or use just one or two spotlights to pick out dramatic elements in the design. Some can be swivelled so that you can highlight different features. For subtle lighting, a cheaper and attractive option is to use lanterns which hold candles.

2. Painting the Walls

In a garden enclosed by walls or fences, you need to do everything possible to reflect light and make the background bright and cheerful. Painting the walls using a pale colour will improve things dramatically.

3. Using Trellis

A trellis can be used as a decorative feature in its own right, or as a plant support. If you want to make a feature of it, paint it white, but if it is used primarily as a plant support, make sure it has been treated with non-toxic preservative. Enclose unsightly downpipes in a trellis ‘box’ over which you can grow an evergreen climber such as ivy. Read about Trellis: Types of garden support and DIY Trellis.

4. Adding Water Features

The sound of running water is refreshing on a summer’s day, and in a small area, you only need a trickle to do the job. A wall spout (with a tiny pool at ground level, from which the water is recirculated) or a self-contained wall fountain is ideal. Read about Stunning water features for small gardens.

5. Introducing Wind Chimes

Wind chimes look and sound good. Choose one primarily for the sound it makes.

6. Training Wall Shrubs

Cover some of the walls with climbers, but try espalier or fan-trained fruit trees or espalier pyracanthas too.

7. Furnishing in Style

White-painted furniture looks bright in a small, enclosed garden, but don’t add too much furniture or the area will look cluttered rather than elegant.

8. Using Containers With Character

If the area is small, make everything work for its space. Instead of plastic bottles, use interesting old kitchen utensils or other unexpected holders, but be sure to add drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.

You could shop some beautiful containers and attractive garden decor like sculptures or pebbles from Ugaoo.com

9. Focal Points in the Shade

Basement areas and enclosed backyards are often inhospitable for plants – the light is poor, and the walls keep off much of the rain. If also, you have a tree that casts shade, even the shade-loving plants will struggle. Use the positions for ornaments or make them into focal points.

Pick up some Birdhouses, Garden Sculptures or Animal Planters from India’s favorite green online store – Ugaoo.com

10. Planting Ferns

Ferns do well in a cool, shady spot, so use them freely in too dull areas. Try a collection of hardy ferns- they won’t look flat if you nestle an attractive ornament among them, or include white flowers, perhaps backed by a white wall. On a hot summer’s day, space will be a cool and tranquil oasis.

11. Growing White-flowered Plants

Use pale flowers if the area lacks direct sun. You won’t be able to use plants that need strong sunlight, but fortunately, some of the best white-flowering plants are shade-tolerant. Try white varieties of impatiens and white nicotianas, for example. White flowers will show up more brilliantly than coloured ones in a dull spot.

12. Introducing Exotics

Gardens enclosed by walls can be hot and sunny too, and being sheltered provides the ideal environment for many exotic plants to grow successfully. Try a few bold houseplants to create a tropical effect.

13. Making the Most of the Steps

Open railings can be used as supports for attractive climbers, planted in pots at the base of the steps, but always keep them trimmed, so that wet leaves do not trail across the steps or obstruct the hand-rail. If the steps are far-reaching, place pots of bright flowers on the steps themselves to produce a ribbon of colour. Do not obstruct the steps. If there is no space on the steps, use a group of containers filled with flowers at the stairway top and bottom.

14. Fixing Window-boxes and Wall Baskets

Use windowboxes lavishly – not only beneath windows, but attached to walls too. Windowboxes, wall pots, hanging pots and half-baskets can all bring cascades of colour to a bare wall. Stagger the rows instead of placing them in neat and tidy lines.

15. Capturing the Scents

An enclosed garden is an ideal place in which to grow scented plants – the fragrances are held in the air instead of being carried off on the wind. Use plenty of aromatic plants, especially big and bold plants like Daturas, and those with a heavy perfume such as evening-scented nicotianas, roses, mogras and night-scented stocks.

Let’s Ugaoo!

Steps for Developing a Marsh Garden:

• The area intended to be formed into marsh garden is dug up to a depth of 60 cm.  
• A thin layer of clay, 10-12 cm deep, is placed at the bottom to form a base of the marsh garden.
• Then a 12 cm layer of rubble or large stones are placed over this to ensure that water in the marsh does not become stagnant.
• The rest of the hollow is filled with garden soil & compost in the proportion of 1:1 and the level is made up of surrounding land.
• All parts of marsh garden are made accessible by laying paths of rough stones or bricks, winding around the marsh and putting stepping stones over them.
• A plantation of marsh garden plants follows this.

Marsh Garden Plants:

A marsh garden can accommodate any moisture loving plant, those which are found commonly growing on the banks of streams or ponds. However, it must be noted that all marsh plants need water but in varying degrees. Accordingly marsh plants can be categorized into three broad groups.

Group I: This group belongs to plants which love 5-10 cm of standing water and termed as ‘swamp dwellers.’

Plants: Sweet flag (Vekhand), Bog Arum, Screwpine (Ketaki), Pink morning glory, Typha indicia, Cyperus sp.

Group II: This category includes plants which live on or little above waterline, with their roots standing in waterlogged soil.

Plants: Dwarf bamboo, Asplenium fern, Cotton grass, Osmunda (Royal fern), Giant cowslip,  Canna indica.

Group III: This group consists of plants which grow above the saturated soil but near enough to send their roots in search of water.

Plants: Alocasia sp., Giant Reed, Daylilies, Filipendula, Cassia alata.

Planting Tips for Marsh Garden:

While planting, the main point one should bear in mind is not to overcrowd the bog.

It is better to plant one type of plant in a group of 3 to 6 allowing sufficient space in between before another group with different colour, texture, size and height is planted.

In a small area, it is advisable to create a greater variety by growing the dwarf marsh plants.

In a vast area, the vigorous growing ones should be used more freely, especially to create background effects.

Image Source: http://ferncreekdesign.org/

Note: Although a pool is not essential for marsh garden, one of the effective ways of creating marsh is to incorporate a pool design into it. Marsh garden can be developed in the broad surrounding area around the pool.

Read More About Best Plants for Water Gardens.

Happy gardening!

Let’s have a look at top 10 miniature plants in India:

1. Syngonium mini

It is one of the best foliage plants for indoor gardening. Syngonium has the highest number of miniature varieties amongst all the ornamental plants. Mini syngoniums are hardy plants that can be grown successfully in bottle gardens and closed terrariums.

2. Ixora Dwarf

Ixora is one of the most cherished flowering plants, and its dwarf variety is a typical plant. Dwarf Ixora with orange, red or yellow flowers can be grown indoors and outdoors. It is a perfect plant for edges, borders and perennial flower beds. Buy ixora red plant online.

3. Mini Tagar (Cape Jasmine)

A perennial, evergreen bush that flowers all year round. Mini Tagar is available in green leaves as well as with variegated foliage. This is an excellent plant for outdoor borders and edges. Mini Tagar is also useful for plantation under large trees and ground cover patches.

4. Fern Mini

Ferns are versatile plants that can be grown almost anywhere. Mini ferns look very elegant in miniature gardens and table decorations. These are perfect houseplants that can be grown as fillers in dish gardens and terrariums.

5. Crassula (Mini Jade)

This succulent is a darling of home gardeners. Mini Jade can be grown in fancy ceramic pots. The plant gives the appearance of a tree in a miniature tray landscape. It can be produced in small rockeries. Buy crassula ovata online.

6. Mini Aloe

These are some of the unusual looking plants and very hardy succulents. Miniature Aloes look great in sand art gardens, desert theme mini landscapes and also in small ceramic pots. Similarly, their cousins Haworthias are also grown.

7. Aralia Dwarf

Also known as polyscias, these are pretty looking foliaceous plants. Unlike their big leaved counterparts, Mini Aralias have small dense foliage which often variegated. The plants are at best of their looks when they are grown in partial sunlight.

8. Peperomia

These are small plants with beautiful heart-shaped leaves and attractive patterns. Peperomias grow well in wet conditions, moss gardens, dark rooms and closed bottle gardens. Peperomias are very good for gifting.

9. Baby’s tears

A delightful green plant with tiny round leaves that resemble teardrops, hence the name. It’s a moisture loving, tender creeper that spreads on the ground rather quickly in the shade. A well-grown plant can give a spectacular look to hanging baskets.

10. Mini Cactus

Last but not the least, the mini cacti like Opuntia or mammillaria are meant for indoor planting in colourful little pots. The right plant in miniature form looks authentic and so damn cool. A small rockery or a desert theme terrarium is perfect little habitat to grow mini cacti.

Cannot miss: Hypoestes, Fittonia (nerve plant), Echeveria, Pilea.

Read More About ‘Miniature Gardening’ Here.

Lets Ugaoo!

The area is usually small, so the money you are prepared to spend on gardening will go a long way. Splash out on quality flooring and furniture, and ornate containers, which will create a classy setting for your plants.

Choosing Flooring

• Garden flooring helps to set the tone and style, and it can make or mar a tiny ‘garden’.
• Avoid Paving slabs: Paving slabs are heavy, lack the kind of refinement one can achieve with tiles, and the size of individual slabs at times can be too large to look ‘in proportion’ for the small area being covered.
• Think of the veranda or balcony floor as you might the kitchen or conservatory floor- and use materials might look perfect indoors. Both quarry tiles and beautiful ceramic tiles work perfect and produce a visual link with the house. Tiles are lightweight, and their small size looks proportionate to the area.
• Timber decking is an ideal choice for a veranda.

You may want to read more about top 10 tips for landscape design!

The Problem of Aspect

• Aspect is an important consideration. Unlike a regular garden, or roof garden, the light may be intense all day, or there may be constant shade, depending on position. Balconies may also cast a shadow.
• If the location is sunny, some shade from the top can be helpful. Consider placing an adjustable awning that can be pulled down to provide shade. Choose sun-loving and drought tolerant plants for dry conditions – both cacti and succulents will be happy to go outside during summer. Eg. Sansevieria, Crassula, Adenium.
• If the location is shady for most of the day many flowering plant varieties won’t thrive. Concentrate on foliage plants, bright flowers, such as Balsam, Salvia, Petunia, as they do pretty well in the shade.

Countering the Wind

• Like roof gardens, balconies are often exposed to cold and damaging winds. The higher a balcony, the greater problem wind is likely to be.
• To grow tender and exotic plants, provide a screen that filters the wind without causing turbulent eddies.
• A trellis clothed with a tough evergreen such as ivy is useful, or use screens of woven bamboo or reeds on the windiest side- these not only provide helpful shelter and privacy, but make a stunning backdrop for plants in containers.

Adding Colour Round the Year

• Use tough evergreens to create a green framework of plants and  clothe the balcony or veranda throughout the year. Use colourful seasonal flowers to provide a backdrop.
• Use plenty of bright seasonal flowers in window boxes or troughs along the edge, with trailers that cascade down over the edge.
• In the more sheltered positions, grow lots of exotic-looking plants, and don’t be afraid to give lots of your tough-leaved houseplants a summer holiday outside.
• Pots of spring-flowering bulbs extend the season of bright flowers, but choose small varieties- tall daffodils, for example, will almost certainly be bent forward as wind bounces back off the walls.
• Add splashes of colour with cut flowers. In summer choose long-lasting ‘exotics’ such as strelitzias and anthuriums.

Here are some more plants  suitable for balconies and Verandas: Aglaonema, Aralia, Areca palm, Croton, Dracaena, Maranta, Stromanthe triostar, Tree fern.

Let’s meet our friends & learn about their importance:

1. Earthworms:

These iconic creatures are still at the top of the list. There is no artificial replacement for worms ability to convert unplantable and non-fertile lands into well prepared fertile soils. Earthworms are the bio-machines, genuinely designed for the sole purpose of soil improvement. The best friends of farmers and the best friends of gardeners.

Read More About How to Use Vermicompost!

2. Millipede:

The most misunderstood friend of a garden. Millipedes are feared or hated for their appearance, but they are harmless and in fact very beneficial. Millipedes are like allies of earthworms who feed on dead and decaying organic matter. They help in humus formation, and because of being fast movers they also support make the soil well aerated.

3. Ladybird beetle:

These are wrongly identified with their favorite common name ladybugs. As beautiful as they are, ladybirds are equally useful hunters. They prey upon some of the most dangerous garden pests like aphids, scale insects and mealybugs. Presence of ladybirds in your garden means specific control of infestations.

4. Praying mantis:

These majestic insects look like a character of aliens or robots from sci-fi movies. Mantis is ambush predators who hunt down insect pests of your garden. Thus they act as natural pesticides for controlling an extensive range of insect pests like caterpillars, worms, stem borers, moths, Jassids, aphids, hoppers etc.

5. Bees:

Bees play an essential role in pollinating flowering plants and are the primary type of pollinator in many ecosystems that contain flowering plants, including your vegetable garden. It is estimated that one-third of the human food supply depends on pollination by insects, birds and bats, most of which is accomplished by bees, whether wild or domesticated.

Read More About Creating a Bee-friendly Garden!

6. Birds:

We are all familiar with the concept of using scarecrow in agriculture to stop the birds from eating the crop production. However, there are many bird species which are beneficial to our gardens and orchards.

Small birds like flowerpeckers and sunbirds help in pollination. Birds like Common Myna, owls, bee-eaters, flycatchers, swallows, larks etc., protect your garden from pests by preying upon them.

Read More About How to Attract Birds in Your Garden!

Happy Friendship Day!
Happy Gardening!

Aim:  To prepare Bonsai from the available plant.

Requirements: Plant, Bonsai container (shallow pot) of appropriate size, soil manure, brick pieces, soil stainers, pruning scissors, potting sticks, plastic mesh, copper wire, wire cutter.

Click here to buy mini garden bonsai tools set online in India.

Selection of Plants for Bonsai:

Woody tree or shrub species are selected for making Bonsai. The size of leaves, flowers, fruits, trunk with branch arrangements are essential considerations in choosing a particular plant. Bonsai plant raised from seeds will take a long time to train. Hence, layering, cutting or grafting, may be used for Bonsai preparation. Well grown nursery plants are selected for bonsai making.

Following are some essential plants for Bonsai:

Adenium, Bottlebrush, Casuarina, Banyan tree, Ficus Benjamina, Juniper, Malphigia, Mango, Jade, Mini pine tree, Bougainvillea, Jatropha, Murraya, Sterculia, etc.

Procedure for making a new bonsai plant:

Preparation of soil:

• This is done by sifting the soil through 3 three different sieves to get three different grades of soil. Well-balanced soil mixture for bonsai contains three parts of garden soil, three parts of manures and two parts of broken bricks.
• The bottom layer (coarse soil or sand) – to facilitate soil drainage.
• The medium layer of soil mixture (Soil+manure+bricks) for filling the pots.
• The top layer (fine soil) – giving the finishing touch.

Click here to buy garden soil mix online in India.

Preparation of bonsai:

• Prepare the plant by removing it from the previous pot. Remove the extra soil from the roots with the help of sticks.
• Cut off the extra roots without disturbing the primary roots.
• Prune the shoots depending upon the desired shape.
• Take washed and dried bonsai pot. Cover the drainage holes with plastic mesh.
• If it becomes difficult for the plant to stand in the pot, then pass the copper wire through both the drainage holes and through the mesh.
• Spread bottom soil all over the bottom of a pot, then spread a little medium soil over it.
• Now keep the prepared plant in position.
• Tie wire around the root ball and secure its position.
• Fill medium soil all around the plant almost up to the top.
• Poke the soil all around with potting sticks to make it compact.
• Sprinkle excellent topsoil and give the finishing touch to the bonsai. Brush off the excess soil. Watering should be done by immersing the pot in a tub of water.
• Keep the pot in the tub till the soil is thoroughly soaked.
• Water the leaves with a sprayer.
• Keep the plant in semi-shade till new growth appears, then gradually expose to sunlight.

You May Want to Read More About Repotting a Bonsai Plant!

Happy Gardening!

A few flowering plants bloom better if kept slightly pot-bound. Check if a particular plant responds well to division in an encyclopedia.

House and greenhouse plants can be divided throughout the year, but late spring and early summer are particularly good times.

Benefits of dividing congested pot-plants:

• Create “new” plants
• Rejuvenate old, overcrowded plants
• Regrow expensive plant  varieties without spending

Plants that grow after division:

Perennials, grasses, bulbs, or suckering shrubs would grow after they are divided.

Plants that won’t grow after division:

Poppy, False Indigo, Butterfly Weed, Lupine, Peony, and Sea Holly to name a few.

Avoid dividing plants with a taproot, i.e. downward-pointing root resembling a carrot.

Things you will need to divide congested pot-plants:

• Knife
• Pots
• Potting Soil

How to divide congested pot-plants?

Step 1: Water the plant at least half an hour before you divide it. If the plant does not come out of the pot easily, try inverting the container while you support the plant and tap its rim on a hard surface.

Step 2: Remove any broken pots used to cover the old drainage hole in a clay pot, and pull away a little potting soil to expose some of the roots and make division easier.

Step 3: Most plants can be pulled apart by hand, but if the root-ball is difficult to break open this way use a hand fork.

Step 4: Break the clump into smaller pieces. If you want many plants, divide into quite small pieces, but if you need only one or two, and prefer to start again with larger plants, two or three pieces may be appropriate. It may be necessary to trim off a few of the largest roots to fit the plant in its new pot.

Step 5: Replant the sections as soon as possible, trickling potting soil around the roots. If possible, use the same kind of potting material as the plant was in before, and firm it well around the roots. Water and keep out of direct sunlight for a few days.

Ugaoo Tip: Provide regular watering to your newly potted plants. Do not feed them with fertilizer at least for a month or two, or until they are firmly rooted and self-sufficient.

Reference: The Complete Encyclopedia of Practical Gardening – Peter McHoy

Dwarf plants are generally used; but if water is scarce and the gardenbeds are not kept full of plants, an edging of neat tilesis ideal. In Pune, Ghar Edging is commonly seen.

Ghar Edging

Made of white crystalline stone, which is abundant on the low hills of the Deccan, called Ghar in Marathi, makes a beautiful edging when broken to display a new surface and neatly arranged. When fresh, its colour is too glaringly white if arranged in broad lines, but in short narrow lines, it looks neat.

Rules of Edging

• Edging should be proportionate to the width of the path and the size of the flower bed it demarcates. If distinct, it can scarcely be too small; 2-3 inches ‘in height is desirable for general purposes.
• Eight inches high is permissible as an edging to a wide road, but anything higher takes the character of a fence and appears out of place.
• Width is often a desirable feature; with Alternanthera cut down to three inches high, a width of fifteen to eighteen inches looks well.

Below are the plants for garden edging:

1. Alternanthera amabilis:

• This plant was introduced into gardens in Madras about 1870, and immediately took full possession of Indian gardens as an edging to the exclusion of nearly all other plants, and the mallees in Western India.
• On the side of a path fully exposed to the sun, no other plant is so easy to manage if water is abundant.
• This plant “ sports” freely; three distinct varieties have become fixed, and many more of less permanent character may be selected in any large garden.
• The typical Alternanthera amabilis has elliptical acuminate leaves varying in colour from green to bright crimson.

Alternanthera (amabilis) arena:

It has small spatulate leaves (increasing in width from the base upwards) and a dense growth habitat.

Alternanthera (amabilis) tricolour:

The plant features ovate leaves (like a longitudinal section of an egg) with a green margin, rose centre, and purple veins.

2. Justicia gendarussa (Jugut-Mudun):

• A dwarf plant with willow-like lance-shaped leaves, forms an excellent edging.
• Prefers heavy rainfall.
• Propagate by cuttings planted during the rains.
• Enjoys the shade, and when planted at the side of a wide road shaded with trees no edging looks better.
• Clip twice yearly.
• Keep 8 inches in height.

3. Pedilanthus Tithymaloides, Vilayti Sher:

• Commonly used as an edging.
• It has an advantage in growing in any garden soil that is open and friable.
• Requiring no watering after it is once established.
• A very prettily variegated variety was found at GaneshKhind in 1870; when it has become more plentiful, it will make a lovely edging.

4. Plumbago Capensis, Chitrak:

• This plant, by frequent clipping, may be brought into a dense form and is very well suited for edging wide roads.
• Propagate by cuttings of redwood.
• It thrives well as an edging at an altitude of over 2,000 feet above the sea.

5. The Miniature China Rose:

• It makes a beautiful edging, as it bears clipping well and flowers nearly all the year round.
• Any rich open soil well drained is suitable.
• Cuttings should be planted in a shady spot during the cold season and transplanted to their permanent quarters at the beginning of the rainy season if the rainfall is slight, or at the end if the fall is over 50 inches annually.
• If clipped twice yearly and regular attention is given to filling up blanks, this rose will make a neat edging about 8 inches high; therefore it is well suited for flower beds about twenty feet wide.

Ugaoo Tip: Smaller beds look better with a more little edging.

Source: Gardening in India by G.Marshall Woodrow